What size plate for building a FEL bucket?

unioncreek · Jan 12, 2009

I'm going to build a 5 foot bucket for my FEL. I'm thinking that I need to use 1/4", but would like some input from others who have built them.

Thanks,
Bobg

jimgerken · Jan 12, 2009

I used 11 gauge sheet for the top, back and bottom, all formed with bends from one sheet. 11 ga is about 0.120" thick. For the sides I used 1/4 plate. Then there is the cutting edge, a pc of 5/8 thick pre-made grader blade stuff. And there are wear strips on the bottom of the bucket, and on the sides, of 3/8 flat. This is for a loader that has a capacity of about 1100 pounds, and the bucket is 49 inches wide.

Kernopelli · Jan 12, 2009

I used 1/4" on mine with additional 1/4" cutting edge and three 1/4"x 3" "skids" running front/back on the underside. I did reinforce the back with an additional full sheet of 1/8" ( or 3/16"..can't remember) that was welded on all edges and drilled/plug welded on six inch squares. It has proven to be very sturdy. I have used it for everything from mulch to digging in hard clay to heavy gravel and rock. I am using 2" cylinders at 2000psi on my loader if that offers any more info.

joes_427_vette · Jan 12, 2009

It would depend on how much horse power and hydraulics your putting behind it. I'm building a 53" bucket for a 4110 out of 1/8" material. With the 1/2" cutting blade and reinforcements I can't see how the bucket can be abused yet it is light enough to gain valuable lifting capacity. Many of the newer buckets are not built of heavy sheet steel but reinforced at critical locations.

unioncreek · Jan 12, 2009

My tractor is a old Farmall M right with a Horn Draulic loader on it. It will lift 1500 pounds, but I don't lift that much it since it's not in the best of shape. Mostly I would be pushing snow and hauling a little soil.

Bob

Renze · Jan 12, 2009

For a compact, you'd be best off with 4mm sheet, which is about 5/16 of an inch.
Then reinforce the upper part of the bucket with a 2x4 inch tube, weld on a grader style bucket blade, some 3/8" flatbar from the bucket lip to aforementioned tube, and a 1/4" strip under the rear edge of the bucket as wear protection. Also weld 3 or 4 lengths of this 1/4" flatbar underneath lengthwise. Also weld some of this 1/4" plate where you'd weld on the quick attach hooks.

My 6 1/2 foot wide loader bucket came off a small Atlas wheel loader, i think a 6 ton model, and its about constructed that way. Using 3/8" sheets is a waste of money, and more important, lift capacity.

jimgerken · Jan 13, 2009

Renze's math is off by a factor of two. 4mm is very close to 5/32".

schmism · Jan 13, 2009

i think 1/8" (.125) for the one piece bend of the scoope and 1/4" sides with a 1/2" cutting edge will serve you just fine.

you might opt for a piece of pipe or 2" sq tube for the top edge.

jimgerken · Jan 14, 2009

Be sure to include at least one , if not two, tubular sections that run the width of your bucket. Without this, there will be much less torsional strength. You can form one in the back lower corner. Look at a JD bucket for details. Their HD models have a couple tubular sections.

Renze · Jan 14, 2009

jimgerken said:
Renze's math is off by a factor of two. 4mm is very close to 5/32".

I shouldnt have tried to fuss with inch sizes in the first place... you guys import more and more metric stuff, and American stuff we import, hardly has imperial wrench sizes... So you guys would probably have a better "feel" of what 4mm is, than i have of 5/32 inch...