What size trailer (capacity)

[mainemark1]

I have a JD 3320 w/backhoe and other attchments. What size trailer do I need to haul this with?

Thanks
Mark

 

[Dmace]

The tractor's about 2900 lbs if it doesn't have a cab, the loader should add 500-700lbs plus the backhoe should be between 800-1200lbs (can't find actual info on website). Various attachments, tools, diesel, etc... will probably add another 500 lbs or more so you can figure at least 5000 lbs roughly. I would go with at least an 8k GVWR trailer or 10k just to be safe, make sure you have brakes on both axles and a good brake controller.

With the backhoe, you will want at least a 14ft trailer too but 16-18ft would be easier to center to the load for tongue weight.

 

[Marveltone]

My tractor/FEL/BB or snow thrower combo fills all of a 16ft trailer. My personal choice would be a 20ft, 10,000 lbs model. That way, there would be room to haul the tractor with the brush cutter if the need ever arises.

Joe

 

[Raspy]

Common axle weight ratings are 3,500 lb., 5,200 lb., and 6,000 lb.
You could squeak by with two 3,500 lb axles but I don't recommend it. And trailers with two of those axles can be rated to about 7,700 lbs considering 10% rides on the hitch. Im only saying this so you can be prepared to not get that setup, even though it will work.

The 5,200 lb axles are a lot stronger and they have considerably larger brakes. Get a trailer with tandem 5,200s and brakes on both axles. Sixteen feet long minimum. At 16 feet the bed will be completely filled and the backhoe will be hanging out the back. Your center of gravity will be whatever it is. Eighteen feet would be better. If you add up the two 5,200 axles you get 10,400 lbs. But some areas require different licensing for a GVW over 10,000 lbs. Lots of trailers with the 5,200 lb axles carry a GVW of around 9,900 lbs. This is what you are looking for. Rated less than 10,000 GVW and capable of more, with good brakes and load range E tires.

I made the inside width of mine 6 1/2 feet to accommodate the box scraper with a couple inches to spare. This gives a nice narrow trailer that is barely wider than the truck and tows very nicely. Much better than eight feet wide that requires constant attention to keep it in the lane and out of trouble.

Be sure it has a good front jack. The larger the better, generally. Not a weak folding one on one side of the tongue because they can break and drop, or a flanged one that sits right behind the coupler because they eventually get bent. A good square one, rated at about 8,000 lbs, with a drop foot that pins in place.

Get ramps that are long enough, probably about 5 or 6 feet long. The longer the better, or just get a tilt bed. My hoe drags when I load because my ramps are too short (made them myself). You'll probably want to carry some blocks or a jack stand to support the back of the trailer when loading, but some ramps have built in feet (the kind of ramps that ride straight up and are permanently attached) and support the weight as you load.

After you get it you can install a couple of D rings in the floor to chain it to. Put some thought into it and make them strong with backing plates tied into the frame if possible. They come with ratings of 15,000 lbs and 20,000 lbs. In an emergency the stronger the better. Get some good 3/8 chain rated for trucks and some good binders. I run one chain back, one forward and one over the bucket arms and down.

Be sure to get the best brake controller you can. I have a Brakesmart that senses brake pressure and is fully adjustable. Many like the Maxbrake. It's a huge safety item. Set it up to lead the truck brakes a bit and not quite skid in a hard stop.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Very good info here. Get a 10K trailer 16' min. Like stated 20' would be much better. Ramps can be a major consideration when buying a trailer for a BH as mentioned. Get them long enough to allow it to load without hanging up.

I would not get anything narrower than 82" so that you can also haul cars and trucks easily.

Chris

 

[zr2blz]

I have the 3320 with 300cx and 447 bh, I use a car hauler 7k at 16' long. Does fine, sometimes I even put the BH on front of trailer and drive on with my 7' blade on back, or put 7' blade on front and take bucket off (61") so I can drive on trailer more. Note, I've updated my tires to next size bigger 225's instead of 205's and also 8 ply verses 6 ply. Pulls nice with brakes on both axles.

 

[whistlepig]

A 7K tandem axle with brakes would be enough. When you start getting in to the 10K to 12K trailer range it is a whole different ball park in the trailer world. You may be talking 10 ply tires. For me, as an occasional user, the 7K is the better choice. I have owned a couple of 10K trailers.

 

[saltbranch]

Whats your tow vehicle?
Your typical 16' with 2- 3500 lbs axles will weigh in @ 1500 lbs or so. A 16-20' with 2-6k or 5200lb axle will aproach 2500k empty. If you tow alot of miles the heavier duty trailer would be my choice, simply for durabilty and tire availability. Once you go to the 6k or 5200 k axles with 16" rims, you can buy 14 ply, load range"G" tires, they last a long time, Brakes on both acles would be my choice.

 

[trook]

I used a 10k 20' with brakes on both axles for my 3320. It was perfect, especially when hauling my 5ft rotary cutter. :thumbsup:

 

[mainemark1]

I am hauling with a 2004 GMC sierra z71. It has the tow package. Is this enough to haul with? Thanks