What to do with broken digital caliper?

[BigBlue1]

I didn't find a 'tools' forum so hopefully this is applicable to this one...

I have a digital caliper that no longer works. When I turn it on it is stuck at whatever number is displayed and nothing changes when I resize it. I replaced the battery with a new one, cleaned the contacts, etc. and no go. So I bought another one. But I have this caliper and it doesn't seem right to just throw it out. There are no graduated marks on the rule (well, 1-inch and 1-cm marks, but that isn't useful) so it can't be used without the electronics working. Could be used for spare parts but I can't really see another caliper having a physical part failure or loss so that seems useless. It is steel so I can't throw it in the recycle bin. Is there anything else useful that could be done with it or should I just toss it?

Rob

 

[nybirdman]

As cheap as new ones are;toss it.

 

[k0ua]

I didn't find a 'tools' forum so hopefully this is applicable to this one...

I have a digital caliper that no longer works. When I turn it on it is stuck at whatever number is displayed and nothing changes when I resize it. I replaced the battery with a new one, cleaned the contacts, etc. and no go. So I bought another one. But I have this caliper and it doesn't seem right to just throw it out. There are no graduated marks on the rule (well, 1-inch and 1-cm marks, but that isn't useful) so it can't be used without the electronics working. Could be used for spare parts but I can't really see another caliper having a physical part failure or loss so that seems useless. It is steel so I can't throw it in the recycle bin. Is there anything else useful that could be done with it or should I just toss it?

Rob

It still has some use as a transfer/scribe. You can use it to get a dimension from an object , you won't know what that dimension is, and you don't need to know, and then you can transfer that dimension onto your stock and use the sharp edges to scribe the dimension onto your stock to be cut.

 

[texasranger556]

I would second the scribe idea. Although for $10 you can get a HF one that works and not lose sleep over using it to scribe.

 

[MatthewPaul]

It still has some use as a transfer/scribe. You can use it to get a dimension from an object , you won't know what that dimension is, and you don't need to know, and then you can transfer that dimension onto your stock and use the sharp edges to scribe the dimension onto your stock to be cut.

I use one in my shop like that several times a week. They work great. When the edges get rounded off just sharpen them back up again and carry on.

 

[PJSprog]

I like the scribe idea, James.

I went through a couple of those at my loading bench before finally just switching to a dial caliper. No more batteries failing in the middle of something, and no more cheap electronics failing.

 

[k0ua]

I like the scribe idea, James.

I went through a couple of those at my loading bench before finally just switching to a dial caliper. No more batteries failing in the middle of something, and no more cheap electronics failing.

ironically, I grabbed for my digital caliper last night in the "hamshack" and the stinking battery was dead. I ordered some today from Amazon. But the one I use the most is my dial caliper from the reloading room. One cannot have too many calipers (or batteries for the digital ones )

 

[the old grind]

Note that with 'affordable' digital calipers (HFT, Fowler, Hornady, RCBS, Lyman etc) the on/off button only controls the readout, not the entire digital bit. That means the battery will last about six mos whether you use it or not. btw, Digitals use a magnetic reluctor somewhat like the 'resolver' used in CNC controls if/when not a 'sight glass' like some 'cheap' DROs (Grizzly) and tape measures (looks like a fat bar code on the tape).

PJ, I have one 'dial' dedicated to the H'dy COL tool and another on the bench to measure case and head expansion, or trim length ... also, one at my desk, one in the golf cart, one in my Kennedy box, and at least one in the barn.

The only digital I actually use is the HFT 'deep' throat, and I only install the battery the rare time I use it. The 'dials' are all HFT, and I trust them to a thou' when sizing brass*, half or less what I need to hold whenh making tractor parts.
*calibrate to HS gauges, Jo blocks, or gauge pins in .001" increments as comparator.

BigBlue1, I second the alternate use as a 'transfer caliper', so you don't have to gum up your 'good' one in the tractor shed. IMO the diff between HFT and Mitutoyo is battery life and o'all cost, and where the pricier one belongs it might not be precise enough, anyway. t o g

 

[PJSprog]

t o g, I had a nice Mitutoyo that got bumped one day and slid to the edge of my loading bench and over. It apparently did not care for the impact with the concrete floor, and never worked right after that (wouldn't hold zero). I replaced it with a HF digital, and it went wonky on me after about 2 years. Bought another one, and it ate batteries at an alarming rate. I bought a HF dial caliper to replace it, and have been using that ever since. It's a fine little tool. I occasionally verify it against known drill bit blanks and a couple of gauge blocks. It maintains pretty consistent accuracy over the 6" range of motion. Good enough for my hand loading. I'm not building fighter jets (well, not anymore, anyway).

 

[PILOON]

You can always use it as a 'go no go' caliper either for the min or the max as that needs no read out.
Just have to figure a way to lock the caliper where U want it to be.
See I found a practical use!