What to look for in an Older Backhoe (580CK era)

[MMH]

I'm looking for an older backhoe, something from the 580CK era. Not that I have any affinity for old backhoes other than their lower cost. Seems like I can get a 580CK for $4K. Also finding some 580B & 530CK at that price point, but as soon as I look even for a 580C the price jumps up allot.

I will be using the backhoe non-commercially around my property for for general excavation (moving a hill side back), 400' of 3'x5' french drain digging, clearing an area by a creek to make a small pond, etc. I know that these machine are approaching 40 years, but I am pretty good at fixing things. I am a little concerned about the lack of 4x4, as where I will be using it is very wet, or, will the backhoe enable me to get unstuck, but again, at the price I'm looking at, no 4x4.

How do I check out one of these older backhoes? I do not have any backhoe experience, but do own a compact tractor w/ a loader (Kubota B9200). Are there any options that are desirable or that I should stay away from? I will be interested only in backhoes w/diesel engines, but what about transmission options? I expect that there will be leaks, and assume that some cylinders will have to be repacked. How difficult is this to do & how much in parts? Also, I hear that many of these machines have bad brakes - can I replace the brakes myself & how expensive (the loader on my tractor can lift about 1000 lbs.)? How do I check out the expensive stuff? For instance, the hydraulic pump, transmission/torque converter, etc.

All in all, will this be a machine that will be able to get the job done, or, will I spend more time fixing than using? I don't have allot of money to spend so the low price ($4K) is a big motivator. However, if the machine breaks down, it's not like it will be stuck at a job site costing me money.

 

[Gary51]

I think it might be money wise just to rent a reliable late model backhoe for periods that you need to do this work. By the time you purchase an older machine and then spend money on repairs and tires, etc. you could rent one and not have to worry about the mechanical work.

 

[Bigfoot62]

Gary is right. Rental is worry-free. The only added expense is fuel.

Or, you could just hire it done. Depending on how many times that you have the rental unit delivered and picked up, it might just be cheaper to have it done.

If you're looking at long-term ownership, be prepared for the possibility of spending more on maintenance and repairs than the purchase price.
Examples: one rear tire will set you back about $1000. A rebuilt "short-block" engine for that model is about $4000.

 

[KYErik]

I bought a Case 530ck for $3500 about 7 years ago for use around the farm. I found a 8 inch bucket for it and that worked great for putting in a water line (too much sandstone for a trencher) and for digging out stumps. It is a diesel with the "case-o-matic" torque convertor instead of a clutch disk. If you get the torque convertor model, be sure that the clutch pressure gauge is reading in the green area- even after the fluid gets warm.

Leaks around the gland seals are not a huge deal as long as the rods aren't pitted or bent. You can get cylinder rebuild kits for about $30 per cylinder and do the replacement yourself.

Watch for blowby out of the breather tube. I have a decent amount of blowby and low clutch pressure so I probably overpaid by a bit. But it runs good, is a powerful digger and is good on fuel.

As for the hydraulic pump- make sure the fluid is not milky and that you can hear the relief valve when you hit the end of a cylinder's travel.

I have one weak brake, but the other pedal works very well.

The shuttle shift is really handy. With my low clutch pressure, the clutch drive pack will sometimes start slipping in the higher gears when it gets warm- when that happens, I almost wish I had a clutch disk, but it would be a big pain to split the hoe to replace the disk.

Check the power steering while stationary- it should be smooth from top to stop with no "kickback" (unfortunately I have some of the kickback in one direction)

Check how it drives in all of the gears as well as high range and low range. Check the pins/bushings to see how tight they are. Check for major structural repairs/ a bent loader/welded "patches". It will probably be OK if any patches are old/rusty.

I have spent plenty of time replacing cylinder seals and busted hoses. Thankfully, the engine and hydraulic pump/controls have been trouble free. Like others have stated, it would likely be cheaper to just hire the work done (and you wouldn't need to spend money on the extra storage space). The main benefit for me is that it is really handy to just do the work myself on my schedule instead of waiting for someone else to come.