What trailer for 4047?

[lsfish]

My old 18" utility trailer with 3500 lb axles and extra springs and brakes on one axle was OK for moving my tractor from pasture to pasture but now I have a ways to go back and forth for a while and am gonna get a new trailer with 5K axles and brakes on both axles.

What size trailer do you guys use? As in, what is the inside width? And what length? I found a 6.5' width 16 ft with 2' dovetail at a fairly reasonable price. But wondering if I need to go up in dimensions.
I have made the deal but not taken delivery of the 4047 yet due to this trailer situation.

 

[TSO]

I had been using my 16' dual 3500# axle utility trailer, and it did the job, but I was maxing it out. I sold it and finally picked up a trailer that could properly handle the tractor.

I now have a PJ 10000 lb 20' dovetail (18 + 2) equipment hauler with spring loaded ramps. Much better trailer, much more stable than the other one.

I was going to go with a heavier rated trailer, but decided on the 10k. My tractor weighs in around 5500 lbs so it still gives me 2500 more lbs I can add onto it along with the tractor (trailer weighs around 2000lbs). If down the road, I need more capacity ... I'll just swap in bigger axles, or buy a another trailer.

I wouldn't want to go shorter than 20ft... I would've gone with 22, but that is a special order size. The price jump from 16 to 18 to 20 isn't much.

Good luck!

 

[LD1]

10k for sure.

Length will depend on how you are configured when towing. Are you getting the tractor with loader??

 

[lsfish]

10k for sure.

Length will depend on how you are configured when towing. Are you getting the tractor with loader??

Yes to loader. WIll need to transport tractor, loader, and bushhog. Haven't measured but don't even know if this will fit on 16'+2' dovetail trailer.

 

[LD1]

Doubting it will fit.

I had an 18+2 that the only way to get my smaller tractor + FEL + 6' cutter on was to back on and put the tailwheel almost on the ball hitch. Couldnt leave it hang off the back cause it had fold up ramps.

This is what mine looks like on a 20+5 GN trailer. Tailwheel is about 18" to 2' beyond the flat.



And your tractor is listed at 132" length with the 3PH. Mine is listed @ 106" w/o and with adds only maybe 8". So your tractor is a good 18" longer, and thats not counting if the loader sticks out farther.....

I'd say you need at least 20' flat + some dove at a minimum. But I would measure it first. a 6' bushhog is going to add a good 8' counting the tailwheel. And thats from the 3PH arms, not the back tires.

 

[TSO]

Doubting it will fit.

I had an 18+2 that the only way to get my smaller tractor + FEL + 6' cutter on was to back on and put the tailwheel almost on the ball hitch. Couldnt leave it hang off the back cause it had fold up ramps.

This is what mine looks like on a 20+5 GN trailer. Tailwheel is about 18" to 2' beyond the flat.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=362285"/>

And your tractor is listed at 132" length with the 3PH. Mine is listed @ 106" w/o and with adds only maybe 8". So your tractor is a good 18" longer, and thats not counting if the loader sticks out farther.....

I'd say you need at least 20' flat + some dove at a minimum. But I would measure it first. a 6' bushhog is going to add a good 8' counting the tailwheel. And thats from the 3PH arms, not the back tires.

You can gain another foot or so by parking the tractor with the bucket fully dumped & curled under.

In your picture, you have the bucket flat ...

 

[LD1]

You can gain another foot or so by parking the tractor with the bucket fully dumped & curled under.

In your picture, you have the bucket flat ...

Its a little less than that the way my bucket is designed. Maybe 6". The cutting edge comes back, but the top lip goes forward. I tried several ways when I was using my 18+2. But with the 20+5 GN, its no longer a concern. so I park it flat so my teeth dont tear up the wood deck in transit.

 

[GManBart]

I've been looking at this same scenario (4047 with FEL and 6' rotary cutter) and decided that 22ft would be best....you can probably squeeze on a 20ft setup, but it might not, and may not let you center the weight the way you'd like to.

 

[RKJeepXJ]

I've also been in this debate with myself. I think I've settled on a car hauler with 18+2 dovetail, slide out ramps and 5k axles. I also have low cars I need to be able to transport as well so it seems like a good compromise. My biggest delimma is wood vs. steel floor.

 

[TSO]

I've also been in this debate with myself. I think I've settled on a car hauler with 18+2 dovetail, slide out ramps and 5k axles. I also have low cars I need to be able to transport as well so it seems like a good compromise. My biggest delimma is wood vs. steel floor.

I was going to get the car hauler type as well, actually that's what I went there to buy. But when I got there and looked at it, I realize I would still be presented with the same dilemma I had with my utility trailer. The slide in ramps don't offer any support the rear of the trailer when you are driving up on it. I had been using jack stands to brace the rear of the trailer before, and of course there are other ways around it.... but the spring loaded pulled down ramps are much better to use, they have built in bracing that contacts the ground, so the weight of whatever you are driving up to the ramps is completely supported.

The ramps are also easier to use than the slide in types. I had been using the same thinking before, that they might get in the way of something hanging off the tractor... but if need be, they can be removed.

Just something to think about.

Also, with the wood vs steel floor debate, here are a couple points to consider.

Metal flooring will add more weight to the trailer.
Wood will eventually wear out, and metal will eventually rust through.... but the wood will be easier and cheaper to replace down the road when necessary.
I've been told that the metal flooring will be very slippery, especially in winter conditions.