I have been running Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10W30 engine oil for quite some time, and have never had a problem. I'm thinking about switching to 5W30, which is also what I run in my pickup. I'm curious to know what the general consensus is about engine oil weight. Thanks in advance.
What weight engine oil do you use?
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beenthere
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Really makes no difference.. go with what feels good.
boomer1025
Platinum Member
Your going to get all kind of answers to your question.
I'd stay with the 10w30. That's what I use in my tractor and lawn equipment.
I'd stay with the 10w30. That's what I use in my tractor and lawn equipment.
jaxs
Elite Member
Every engine mfgr issue's oil reccomendations for their engine based on ambient temperature,follow those reccomendations and you are assured of right choice. If one live's in AZ then move's to MN,oil will be different (mostly because of Winter).
Grumpycat
Super Member
Use in what?
In so-called multi-viscosity oils the first number, the one with the W, is a grade which indicates how cold the temperature can drop yet the oil still be pumped in the engine. 5W is -30°C and 10W is -25°C per SAE J300. SAE J3 | Widman International SRL
In short 10W flows about the same as when 5W is 5°C colder.
Reading between lines a 5W-30 oil is fundamentally a 5 weight base oil with viscosity improvers to modify operating temperature viscosity to 30 weight grade. A 10W-30 is fundamentally a 10 weight oil which should require less viscosity improvers to be 30 weight grade. Viscosity improvers are not as robust as the base oil so in theory a 10W-30 oil will retain its properties longer than a 5W-30. And a straight 30 weight will be best of all.
Throwing a kink in the works we don't really know a manufacturer used more VI to produce their 5W-30 vs 10W-30. Synthetic manufacturing processes allows creation of base oils with flatter slope to the temperature vs viscosity plot requiring fewer viscosity improvers. But the kink in the works is that just because synthetic processes were used there is no assurance a superior product requiring less viscosity improver was actually used.
So base your choice of the W grade on how cold the temperatures you expect to start the engine. Base the operating temperature grade on what the engine manufacturer says to use. If they say to use 0W-20 then do so.
In so-called multi-viscosity oils the first number, the one with the W, is a grade which indicates how cold the temperature can drop yet the oil still be pumped in the engine. 5W is -30°C and 10W is -25°C per SAE J300. SAE J3 | Widman International SRL
In short 10W flows about the same as when 5W is 5°C colder.
Reading between lines a 5W-30 oil is fundamentally a 5 weight base oil with viscosity improvers to modify operating temperature viscosity to 30 weight grade. A 10W-30 is fundamentally a 10 weight oil which should require less viscosity improvers to be 30 weight grade. Viscosity improvers are not as robust as the base oil so in theory a 10W-30 oil will retain its properties longer than a 5W-30. And a straight 30 weight will be best of all.
Throwing a kink in the works we don't really know a manufacturer used more VI to produce their 5W-30 vs 10W-30. Synthetic manufacturing processes allows creation of base oils with flatter slope to the temperature vs viscosity plot requiring fewer viscosity improvers. But the kink in the works is that just because synthetic processes were used there is no assurance a superior product requiring less viscosity improver was actually used.
So base your choice of the W grade on how cold the temperatures you expect to start the engine. Base the operating temperature grade on what the engine manufacturer says to use. If they say to use 0W-20 then do so.
RalphVa
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I'm using 0w20 M1 in my 3 gas engine vehicles, 5w30 (and plan to switch to 0w30 M1) in 2 diesel engines and 5w30 M1 in the lawn mower engines.
Ralph
Ralph
Hello, Charlottesville! I used to live there. Worked for Crouse-Hinds in Earlysville. I hear they folded soon after I left.
bmg88201
Platinum Member
If the manufacturer recommends a particular weight/grade of oil, then use that. Why change ? If you were to move to a drastically different climate then changing viscosity would make sense.
I use conventional 15W40 in all my diesels and small gas engines. Not a stickler on brand, Rotella, Delo, Mobil Delvac. Have used TSC Traveller at times and never could detect a difference. Change it a bit before the manufacturer specs on miles/hours. Do not worry too much about time. I am 62 years old and have never lost an engine or had an issue related to an oil problem. Doubt I will change at this stage of the game.
Synthetics do have their place, but unless it is a really cold environment or longer drain intervals are needed, I pretty much feel they are not needed.
Synthetics do have their place, but unless it is a really cold environment or longer drain intervals are needed, I pretty much feel they are not needed.
I have an Ariens 17.5 HP (single cylinder B&S 31000-series engine) rider that I use as a yard utility vehicle. It gets used year 'round for getting the mail and various other tasks. That means lots of short trips on anything from 100-degree summer days to 5-degree winter mornings. It occasionally gets a couple hour run time if I'm doing something like picking up sticks or spraying for bugs. I used to use 10W-30 dino oil but noticed it seem to accumulate a lot of moisture due to the short run times and it was a bit sluggish turning over in winter. So two years ago I switched to Mobil-1 5W-30 full synthetic and have had no problems. I have no measurable oil consumption during hot summer days, it cranks much easier in winter and for some reason I seem to get less condensation in the oil.
It depends on your ambient operating temperatures. For the Kawasaki FS730V used in the X500 the OEM Kawasaki owner's manual has this oil chart:
The John Deere owner's manual for the X500 has the following oil chart:
oosik
Epic Contributor
I use EXACTLY what Kubota recommends in my 2009 Op Manual. 15W-40 year round. I initially used Kubota branded oil but have now switched to Shell Rotella. I can get Rotella at the local NAPA store.
JerryK
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All my diesels get either Rotella or Delo old school 15w40. Both are fine oils and I go with which ever is lower in price at the Wally. The motor internals will outlast me. And be in fine shape for the next owner or two. I own or have owned equipment with 5K to 8K hours on them that have had regular oil inserted in them for their lifetime, and they still run fine without any noticeable engine wear. I do use syn oil in my Zero turn and generator.
