what would you do?

[deepNdirt]

On this trailer I traded for last month it has no loading ramps, I've been getting by using LVL beams, yesterday while scavenging through the scrapyard looking for materials to build ramps I noticed someone had scraped a trailer with ramps, so for a little more than what the materials cost I wound up purchasing the ramps instead

I could have built the ramps to match the provision of my trailer, It already had the 2-1" steel bars on the rear to hing ramps from,
But now I'm thinking of doing something all together different to install these ramps,
As I stated the trailer has approx. 20" bars welded into place at the rear of there is 3' of space between the bars limiting me to not loading anything with a lesser wheel spacing such as handtrucks etc,etc,
The ramps are 19" wide, I'm thinking about simply cutting the bars completely off from the trailer and starting over by installing a new bar completely across the rear of the trailer and having the ability to slide the ramps together if ever need be....what would you do? Can anyone provide information and pictures of this type application? to give me some idea on how to attach the new bar, when I removed the ramps there was a 2" bar I could pull a pin from one side and the bar could be pulled through, although this would require having to cut larger than 2' holes in the brackets that held the bar, I don't see any reason for removing the ramps ever once installed, can someone perhaps explain why I might would need to do so?
Thanks!

 

[Diamondpilot]

One concern I would have is if you have such a long bar to slide the ramps on how will it hold up? I could see it bending very easily loading my tractor, trucks, or my friends BobCat.

This is why I love my slide in ramps so much. They are strong, easy to used, out of the way, and totally adjustable via the full length track for them on the rear of the trailer. Mine are the type that slide in from the rear, not the side. Simply pull the pin, slide them out, lift up the trailer end to the track and done. In place in 10 seconds each.

Chris

 

[jlsmith]

One concern I would have is if you have such a long bar to slide the ramps on how will it hold up? I could see it bending very easily loading my tractor, trucks, or my friends BobCat.

This is why I love my slide in ramps so much. They are strong, easy to used, out of the way, and totally adjustable via the full length track for them on the rear of the trailer. Mine are the type that slide in from the rear, not the side. Simply pull the pin, slide them out, lift up the trailer end to the track and done. In place in 10 seconds each.

Chris

Agree. Mine is the same way. Unless im loading something with out a FEL I dont even use my ramps tho.:thumbsup:

 

[deepNdirt]

One concern I would have is if you have such a long bar to slide the ramps on how will it hold up? I could see it bending very easily loading my tractor, trucks, or my friends BobCat.

This is why I love my slide in ramps so much. They are strong, easy to used, out of the way, and totally adjustable via the full length track for them on the rear of the trailer. Mine are the type that slide in from the rear, not the side. Simply pull the pin, slide them out, lift up the trailer end to the track and done. In place in 10 seconds each.

Chris

What you have sounds like a great idea if youthfull and strong back, However the older I get the worst my old back becomes and do not like having bend over and lifting heavy things,
These ramps are heavy constructed and not the typical 2x2 iron as others i have had, these ramps are of C-channel and have 2x wood bolted to them and i would estimate 75-80 lbs each, I have been thinking of a way once installed to do something, and I'm sure it has been done before, perhaps someone here might even have their trailer setup with one?................. what if the trailer had a 3/4 inch steel pipes running the length of the trailer welded to both sides at the top rail, this would be 16 ft. insert a steel cable into each pipe and attach them to the ramps,
On the front of the trailer fabracate a sort of wench, ( would be nothing more than a 2" pipe) that run the width of the trailer across the top rail install a crank handle on one side ( probably drivers side) and have the cables attached to this 2" pipe, I now would have a way to crank up and let down the ramps without having bend over:thumbsup:

 

[deepNdirt]

here is some pictures of what I am contemplating,
another thing that I thought about was how the pipe that attached to the crank and goes to the other side of the trailer can also double as something could roll a canvas or some material that could cover when transporting mulch, etc,etc, Just a thought

 

[TonyF]

One concern I would have is if you have such a long bar to slide the ramps on how will it hold up? I could see it bending very easily loading my tractor, trucks, or my friends BobCat.

This is why I love my slide in ramps so much. They are strong, easy to used, out of the way, and totally adjustable via the full length track for them on the rear of the trailer. Mine are the type that slide in from the rear, not the side. Simply pull the pin, slide them out, lift up the trailer end to the track and done. In place in 10 seconds each.

Chris

I would make the ramps with legs that support the weight, my current equipment trailer is done this way. It uses a 1.5" diameter bar so the ramps can slide to adjust the spacing. If you load something heavy, you'll most likely want to support the rear of the trailer anyway.

 

[TonyF]

..., I don't see any reason for removing the ramps ever once installed, can someone perhaps explain why I might would need to do so?
Thanks!

I've hauled logs and other long bulky stuff where I've needed to remove the ramps. I'll try to post some pictures tonight of my setup. Its exactly like you describe.

 

[tractorboy5500]

here is some pictures of what I am contemplating,
another thing that I thought about was how the pipe that attached to the crank and goes to the other side of the trailer can also double as something could roll a canvas or some material that could cover when transporting mulch, etc,etc, Just a thought

If you do it this way, you can either put a pad eye or a saddle in the middle to help support the bar, this will keep it from bending.:thumbsup:

 

[flusher]

Or use 5-ft long aluminum ramps like these

5,000 lb Per Axle Truck Trailer Ramps

I use the 10-ft long x 16" wide aluminum ramps for my 2004 Isuzu NPR stakebed.

 

[TonyF]

Pictures....