What would you do?

[mercdv]

Okay, I have a dilemma. I have a 2009 JD 2305 that only has 38 hours on it (sat for years due to a very sick child). It has been garage kept and is in excellent condition. I'll start off by saying I love her (don't tell the wife ) but I can't get the weak rear PTO out of my mind. I know that the 2009 has the redesigned transmission but I also know it is aluminum and can still fail. I've not worried about the PTO failure in the past because I didn't run anything off the rear PTO. I'm about to start using the rear PTO for a PHD which leads my to my question, "What would you do?" I'll start by listing out my situation and then throw out the options I'm considering.

I'm about to put the 2305 back into full service. Right now I only have 1 acre of land (don't laugh) and the 2305 is pretty large for that acre. It is a little heavy for our lawn with the weekly mowing but it was bought for specific projects after getting gouged my contractors. I used it to put in 3/4 our irrigation, completely redo that landscaping on our lot, and to do the heavy lifting for our home remodeling. Our plan is to eventually get more land but that won't happen anytime soon. All of the things I mentioned are still in the works because it was put on hold. I'm sitting here staring at a 55 amp alternator that arrived today wondering whether or not I should install it and rewire some things or take a different path.

Current setup

• 2009 JD 2305 38 hours
• I completed a complete service 2 weeks ago changing ALL fluids with replacing the governor housing gasket and injection pump housing screws.
• Custom made battery tie-down so I can use Optima batteries
• Front and rear LED work lights
• 200CX loader
• 260 Backhoe with subframe
• Titan QA pallet forks
• 56" MMM
  

Things I'm considering doing

• Stay with the 2305 and finish the final mods (fans, canopy, alternator conversion, hydraulic top link, hydraulic selector)
• Buy a used tractor that works with all my attachments but doesn't suffer the rear PTO weakness
• Trade my 2305 in for a new 1025R, 2025R, or larger (I'm not keen on the lateral trade for a 1 series but the 2025R or larger might be too heavy for the lawn)
• Buy a different brand and start over after selling my 2305 (LS, New Holland, Kubota)

I'm trying to make the best decision without having a giant impact on the wallet...what would you do (budget minded people)? The wife and I are at a loss. I'm confused. Keep in mind that one of the major reasons I have the tractor is for heavy lifting because my back is wrecked and we move really heavy things (600+ lbs) using the tractor a lot.

 

[Wagtail]

Honestly... stick with your 2305.

It's not going to fall apart and, if you're truly worried about your lawn, get a Lawn tractor to handle that part of the operation.

 

[mcfarmall]

I don't closely follow JD issues so I don't know what you are talking about when you say "weak PTO." Seems to me that a PHD would not trash your PTO like perhaps a brush hog or stump cutter might unless your trying to install a fence in a boulder field, woods, or construction debris landfill. If saving (not spending) money is your ultimate criteria, then keep the 2305 and deal with it if/when it breaks. After all, nothing runs like a Deere, right?

Don't laugh, I'm planning on a 50hp tractor and my primary residence is on 2 acres. HOWEVER, the tractor will be used on a 40 acre parcel in a nearby county.

 

[jeff9366]

John Deere 2305

2006 - 2011 2000 Twenty Series
Sub-Compact Utility tractor
Previous model: John Deere 2210
Next model: John Deere 1026R

Production:
Manufacturer: John Deere
Original price (USD)
$11,069 (2011 )

John Deere 2305 Engine:
Yanmar 1.1L 3-cyl diesel
Engine Detail:
Yanmar 3TNV76
diesel
3-cylinder
liquid-cooled
68 ci [1.1 L]

Bore/Stroke: 2.99x3.23 inches [76 x 82 mm]
Rated Power (EC 97/98): 24.1 hp [18.0 kW]
Air cleaner: dual dry element
Compression: 23.4:1
Rated RPM: 3000
Operating RPM: 1170-3170
Torque: 41.7 lb-ft [56.5 Nm]
Torque RPM: 3000

Capacity:
Fuel: 5.5 gal [20.8 L]
Hydraulic system: 3.4 gal [12.9 L]
Front axle: 2.6 qts [2.5 L]

3-Point Hitch:
Rear Type: I (limited)
Rear lift (at ends): 1433 lbs [650 kg]
Rear lift (at 24"/610mm): 681 lbs [308 kg]

Power Take-off (PTO):
Rear PTO: independent
Rear RPM: 540
Mid PTO: independent
Mid RPM: 2100

Dimensions & Tires:
Wheelbase: 57.1 inches [145 cm]
Weight: 1450 to 1865 pounds

John Deere 2305 attachments:
mowing deck
front-end loader

2305 Serial Numbers:

John Deere 2305 Power:
Engine (gross): 24.1 hp [18.0 kW]
PTO (claimed): 18 hp [13.4 kW]

Mechanical:
Chassis: 4x4 MFWD 4WD
Final drives: spur gear
Steering: power
Brakes: wet disc
Cab: Two-post fixed ROPS.

Hydraulics:
Type: open center
Capacity: 3.4 gal [12.9 L]
Pressure: 1987 psi [137.0 bar]
Valves: 2
Pump flow: 2.9 gpm [11.0 lpm]
Total flow: 5.2 gpm [19.7 lpm]
Steering flow: 2.3 gpm [8.7 lpm]

 

[jeff9366]

Resale value will not be that great. I would not upgrade with a new alternator unless the existing alternator does not work.

Deere 2305 is a SUBCOMPACT tractor. Learn to work within SUBCOMPACT tractor limitations.

Deere 2305 has a Category I - LIMITED Three Point Hitch. You will have to research if there is a PHD compatible with Cat I LIMITED dimensions. You may not be able to raise PHD high enough to move the tractor.

Eighteen horsepower at the PTO is enough to power a reasonable size PHD, which do not require much power. Two man, hand-held PHDs are usually 6-8 horsepower.

 

[Thomas]

If I,I would stay w/what I had, you might get little more $$'s road side sale than dealer,but than again what is your gut feelings telling you.

 

[KennyG]

I don't think you should be too concerned over the PTO. Yes, there's been some failure issues, but if you take it easy and make sure you don't abuse it, should be OK. I think Jeff noted the biggest concern. Are you sure the 3 point lift is adequate for a PHD?

 

[nybirdman]

I would keep it for sure and rent a stand alone post hole digger for your project.

 

[Gator6x4]

I have a 2305 that I use for yard work, fertilizer distributor, thirty gallon sprayer, MMM for mowing. I usually keep the backhoe and loader removed and only install for a needed job since I have a loader on another tractor I keep mounted all the time.

I have never had a concern about the PTO breaking. Now I am also very careful on the length of the PTO shaft for implements I use. A PTO shaft that is too long or too short can cause major damage on any tractor with a steel or aluminum PTO housing.

I suggest you review this Everything Attachment You Tube Video before you start attaching PTO driven attachments. Let others run PTO shafts right off the shelf without measuring and insuring they are the proper length for their tractor, just don’t try it yourself unless you want damage to occur.

everything attachments how to cut a pto shaft - Google Search

Here also is the Post Hole Digger Everything Attachments recommends for the 2305. I know it is not the one the neighbor has who said you could borrow.

Compact Tractor Post Hole Digger 3 point hitch tall narrow arch 48" auger length

 

[mercdv]

Holy crap, I take the tractor out to help move 30 trailers and come back to some well thought out responses. Thanks everyone, it certainly sounds like you all are really solidifying my feelings on this one. I told my wife that I felt like I was overreacting before I posted but she had also freaked out when I told her the repair would cost $6000 IF (very big if) the PTO failed. I was worried that if it did happen I'd lose even more on trade in and would be out WAY too much to replace it. I didn't even consider (until thinking about it while moving all the trailers) I could completely part the thing out if it blows the PTO which would let me find a decent used tractor that works with my implements in the worst case scenario.

There are a couple of PHD's that work well with the 2305 and a shorted auger. Lucky for me our frost line is only 5" so I do not have to dig down to crazy depths due that that. This allows me to use the shorter augers. I also have to change out the stator generator for an alternator because I've maxed out the 20 amp factory installed one and I'm not paying $589 to get another 15 amps using the JD upgrade kit. I did figure out a way to lower the cost to around $350 by building my own "JD kit" using other sites but I decided to drop the price even lower by converting it to a true IR alternator. I got the cost down to around $130 that way. That is assuming I know enough as to not screw up the wiring and catch the thing on fire. :confused3:

Thanks all for the constructive feedback. I think I'm going to keep her and just continue to set aside money for more land and a larger tractor. That is a dream I should have followed 22 years ago. I got 5.5 years to my first retirement and I want to completely change my career for the race to my second retirement.