Scotty Dive
Platinum Member
The draw bar that came with the Yanmars (which I do not have) that mounts low and is centered between the rear tires and a draw bar that attaches from one end of the lift arms to the other sideways?
Whats the difference between....
- Thread starter Scotty Dive
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Here is a picture of a factory draw bar and a home made 3 point draw bar. The factory draw bar is good for much more weight and stability. However, it has no mobility. The 3 point draw bar allows for some up and down movement which is nice. I have mine going into the factory draw bar so I will be pulling against that instead of the 3 point. Here is a factory draw bar. Several different ones, I have no idea which tractors this one fits. http://www.hoyetractor.com/mm5/merc..._Code=HTE&Product_Code=DB-4420&Category_Code=
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Scotty Dive
Platinum Member
thanks. So....the factory drawbar in your picture is recessed quite a bit under the tractor and then you have some flat stock attached to it? So tell me if I am correct here in my thinking....the factory draw bar is good to pull a load from since it pulls from under and minimizes the tipping that might be possible with a 3pt drawbar???
So the factory draw bar is tubed like the one on hoyes website?
So the factory draw bar is tubed like the one on hoyes website?
HoyeTractor
Gold Member, Approved Advertiser
Attached is a picture from the 2020 parts book showing the factory drawbar. It is the same as --
http://www.hoyetractor.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=HTE&Product_Code=db-4420
A three point drawbar can be a serious risk if the operator does not understand how to use it. It is very easy to tip a tractor if you pull anything from above the center-line of the rear axle.
http://www.hoyetractor.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=HTE&Product_Code=db-4420
A three point drawbar can be a serious risk if the operator does not understand how to use it. It is very easy to tip a tractor if you pull anything from above the center-line of the rear axle.
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Yes, that is a piece of an old sickle mower bar (which is tough stuff) with a pin going through it and the factory draw bar Aaron is showing. He gave the picture of how it is mounted to the tractor. Notice there are 2 holes so it can be adjusted further back. You can pull the pin and remove it from the tractor. I never do because it is never in the way of anything I have. The U clamps would normally stay in place.
shawnjvl
Silver Member
clemsonfor
Super Member
My factory drawbar is solid steel with holes in it. I never remove it as that is a good way to loose it, which is probly why you dont have the one that should be on your tractor.
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Scotty Dive
Platinum Member
Thats Funny.....does yours look like the one Aaron posted?
284 International
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The drawbar on my YM2000 looks like the one Aaron posted, but some of the other Yanmar stuff I've got has a rectangular bar.
One nice thing about a 3 point mounted drawbar is the ease of attaching to a trailer for quick moves: Back up under the hitch, lift the 3 point, and drive away.
The disadvantage is that with heavy loads on the 3 point, both in tongue weight and in force to pull the load is that it tends to make the tractor lift the front more easily than the same load on the drawbar. The drawbar's position and height mean that the tractor has much less tendency (To the point of near impossibility) to tip over backward. As well, the drawbar usually will hit the ground before the tractor can tip over to the rear, which should make it nearly impossible to flip. However, operating uphill or under extreme situations makes about anything possible.
The 3 point linkage, in contrast, doesn't have the same rigidity to combat a rollover to the rear, and gives whatever load is on back a mechanical advantage to let the tractor walk the front end up. That trait also gives you more traction, though, which is why it's a popular thing to pull from an implement or the 3 point, since it just works better.
I wouldn't be worried about the sheer weight you're putting on the 3 point hitch if you go that route. My manuals list much lower loads permissible on the drawbar than the 3 point is rated to lift. For instance, a 600 lb load is a quite heavy trailer hitch, but is only about half what the 3 point lift can do on a YM2000/2002 etc. It's about double what the drawbar load should be, though.
One nice thing about a 3 point mounted drawbar is the ease of attaching to a trailer for quick moves: Back up under the hitch, lift the 3 point, and drive away.
The disadvantage is that with heavy loads on the 3 point, both in tongue weight and in force to pull the load is that it tends to make the tractor lift the front more easily than the same load on the drawbar. The drawbar's position and height mean that the tractor has much less tendency (To the point of near impossibility) to tip over backward. As well, the drawbar usually will hit the ground before the tractor can tip over to the rear, which should make it nearly impossible to flip. However, operating uphill or under extreme situations makes about anything possible.
The 3 point linkage, in contrast, doesn't have the same rigidity to combat a rollover to the rear, and gives whatever load is on back a mechanical advantage to let the tractor walk the front end up. That trait also gives you more traction, though, which is why it's a popular thing to pull from an implement or the 3 point, since it just works better.
I wouldn't be worried about the sheer weight you're putting on the 3 point hitch if you go that route. My manuals list much lower loads permissible on the drawbar than the 3 point is rated to lift. For instance, a 600 lb load is a quite heavy trailer hitch, but is only about half what the 3 point lift can do on a YM2000/2002 etc. It's about double what the drawbar load should be, though.
clemsonfor
Super Member
Yea it looks like Aarons, so maybe i dont pay that much attention! I was prolly thing about a freinds JD 855? Yea i guess mines (yall like that word right) is round too and has the u shaped claw end and has a pin dropped in it. I have never used it.