Wheel removal 1938 John Deere Model A

[elsueno]

Total novice here with tractors so please bear with me.

I have a 1938 John Deere Model A tractor and am in the process of replacing the front tires. I have two new 5.50 x 16s.

I raised the front of the tractor and removed the 3 wheel bolts expecting to be able to pull the wheel and then change tires. Not so.

Help is much appreciated on how to proceed.

Thanks!

 

[sleepybozo]

I haven't the slightest idea of how to go about the wheel removal, but you can change the tires with them in place. The toughest thing might be breaking the bead, but get creative with a large c-clamp or a hi-lift jack or something like that, and you can get 'er done! Just make sure the tractor is solidly supported!

 

[elsueno]

Hmmmm. Had not even considered the possibility of changing the tires in place.
Thanks especially for the safety prompt.

 

[DJ54]

The 3 bolts you removed, just hold the hub/dust cap on. You'll need to bump that with a rubber mallet, dead blow hammer, or even a block of wood, and knock it loose to remove. It may help to rotate it, bumping with one hand, and the other hand under it to catch it when it comes off.

One that is off, you'll need to remove the cotter pin that runs through a castellated nut. Then remove the nut, washer that backs up the bearing, and outboard bearing. And somewhere in there should be a felt washer.


Once the nut and backing washer are removed, you should be able to shake the wheel at the top back and forth with one hand, and be ready to catch the bearing with the other, placing the catching hand just under the spindle opening. Once it starts off, try and pull it straight off, so as not to damage the back side wheel seal. A clean parts pan, and a few rags are handy, within reach.

If that back seal has been leaking, there's no better time to repack the bearings, and install new seals.

Here is a link from John Deere showing the parts. http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/pdfs/PC0674.pdf

Just look to see that the gasket isn't damaged when removing the hub/dust cap. If it's still intact, clean the surfaces, and use something like Permatex 300 sealant, or, Indian Head Shellac as a sealer. Just takes a bit to brush a bead near the center of the gasket, to keep it from squashing out, when it's retightened.

Edit: The link doesn't take you directly to the front wheel assy. view. You'll need to scroll down to pages 42-43.

 

[elsueno]

Rockin!!! Thanks. On today's "make it happen" list.
Much appreciated.

 

[elsueno]

100% success!!! Thank you!!!

Next objective is carburetor jet adjustment so as to achieve and maintain a stable idle RPM and provide power under load. How to?

 

[DJ54]

Glad you got it. Not really all that familiar with the carb. adjustments. Just some general items, due to a buddy of mine having a '36 A years ago. But at an idle, I don't know that I've ever heard one idle smooth. And if I remember correctly, each cylinder has a jet of it's own. Not sure if the standard 1-1/2 turns on most carbs. to start applies here or not, but you could try. Just have to do some tweeking, and dial it in. If anything, betting it needs to be set on the rich side. If it hasn't been run for a while, could be it just needs a good cleaning before some final adjustments. Not necessarily a carb kit, just cleaned real well. If the carb has never been reworked, it could be to the point where the throttle bushings are worn and need replaced. Again, not that familiar with them, but that could need to have some machine shop work done to replace them. That being, them bored out, press fit back in, then align bored so the throttle shaft doesn't bind.

I think you'll get a better response in the John Deere Vintage section. Good luck..!!

 

[CAT97]

I have a 1930's John Deere model LA tractor known as the Johnny Popper. I also have the instructions for the same.
I don't know if the carb is the same but I am more than happy to send you a copy of the 16 page booklet. I have just
recently located the hand crank for this and will soon hope to start this model LA.