Wheels are kattywompus on CK30

[k0ua]

My god 14 days and 4 pages and a 20 min job not done yet.

I am right with you there.

 

[the old grind]

I had to straighten a draft arm from my NH T1520, and having done so would recommend that if you spring for a hydro press (HFT is OK) spend the few extra bucks to get the 20T vs the 12T. (BIG price jump going to 30T. Also, 20T min advised to press Ford p-up R axle bearings)

Use wood blocks vs the arbor plates when straightening, 2x4s on edge, etc. The part will bite into the wood & minimize slipping/rotating. (round parts have to be positioned just right to minimize that. Powdered rosin is your friend. Stand to the side of the press when cranking the handle....)

Even a slightly bent tie rod stud can be adjusted for (vs replaced) when you re-check toe. A tie rod is a tie rod if the length is right and end studs fit the knuckles.

btw, just replaced inner & outer TR ends on a 2001 GMC 1500 (4WD). It was tire tread's straight grooves that made measuring front to back easy when setting toe vs making/using a giant home-brew caliper. (Measure as near to axle height as possible.) Truck will now go >1/4 mi with no hands on the wheel. As was said, tractor toe wouldn't be nearly that fussy ... tog

 

[k0ua]

Hey thanks TOG for the press tips.:thumbsup:

 

[vanguard]

I just ran across this thread. As an ex-offroad enthusiast I've fix this problem several times. The guys that said something about losing structural integrity is on to something. The next bend will come more easily if you keep hitting it.

What we used to do was to take the tie rod ends off, bang it (mostly) straight, and then bang it into a larger diameter tube/pipe. That will make it a good bit stronger than stock and perfectly straight.

 

[paulfun9]

I just ran across this thread. As an ex-offroad enthusiast I've fix this problem several times. The guys that said something about losing structural integrity is on to something. The next bend will come more easily if you keep hitting it.

What we used to do was to take the tie rod ends off, bang it (mostly) straight, and then bang it into a larger diameter tube/pipe. That will make it a good bit stronger than stock and perfectly straight.

Yes I have seen that plenty and the next time out most would find the next weakest link in the system and break something harder and more expensive to replace like the steering Knuckle, remember that structural integrity applies to a machine in many ways not just one part.

Many years of off road experience here and for the major differences involved I would never recommend a reinforced repair like that on slow moving tractor with limited suspension movement. IMHO its best to leave the rod as the weak link and get back to work.

 

[the old grind]

... structural integrity applies to a machine in many ways, not just one part.... IMHO its best to leave the rod as the weak link and get back to work.

:thumbsup: IIRC it was a fellow member's Son in law who caught a ditch wrong on an LS 4047 and wished a tie rod had bent vs busting a knuckle. I'm sure that going back to a cranky, lumbering, leaky Ford 4000(?) was no fun while the LS was in the shop for repair vs just DIY-straightening a 'safety' link...

 

[GPintheMitten]

I don't think it's kattywampus. I think it's verklept.

 

[Billrog]

Paulfun9 :thumbsup:

 

[TomSeller]

IMHO its best to leave the rod as the weak link and get back to work.

And remember to avoid going stumps.

 

[GPintheMitten]

:thumbsup: IIRC it was a fellow member's Son in law who caught a ditch wrong on an LS 4047 and wished a tie rod had bent vs busting a knuckle. I'm sure that going back to a cranky, lumbering, leaky Ford 4000(?) was no fun while the LS was in the shop for repair vs just DIY-straightening a 'safety' link...

Yep. I remember that too.