when big tractors are -easier- to work on

Soundguy · Mar 13, 2006

At lunch I hit the CNH dealer and picked up inner and outter air filters, oil filter, and hyd filter for my 7610s ( fuel filter had just been changed.. ) I got off work today and set 2 hours aside to drain fluids, R&R filters, and grease the tractor in prep for mowing season... Had it all done in 45 minutes... Felt odd. Oil drain plug is just below wasit height.. don't even have to stoop down much to put a wrench on it... and a 5g bucket has a couple feet of open air between it and the drain.. not at all like changing the oil on an 8n where you have to get a short squat pan.

Wow.. the hydro filter on the 7610s is about 8" across.. holds right at a gallon of oil. I jokingly asked the counter guy if this was the aux oil cooler... course the joke was on me as it was a 38$ filter!! Air filters were 50$ between the two of them.. and the oil filter was 12$.. byt the time you add crankcase and tranny oil.. shazamm!over 100 bucks for an oil change!.. course like the counter guy said.. it's cheaper than replacing the engine and the hydro pump..

Soundguy

Robert_in_NY · Mar 14, 2006

It is fun, but it gets real expensive when you have to service 4 tractors every year /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Do you service all your tractors each spring or only the one you use the most and go by the hours on the others? I average at least 100 hours on my Fords each year so they all get new engine oil every spring as well as the regular hourly specified service. But I do enjoy working on the 7710 more then the others.

Soundguy · Mar 14, 2006

( It is fun, but it gets real expensive when you have to service 4 tractors every year )

I hear ya!!! 2 of my tractors are 'bigger'.. the 5000 and the 7610.. and at 2.5-3g of crankcase oil, and up to 48 qts of tranny oil each /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

( Do you service all your tractors each spring or only the one you use the most and go by the hours on the others? )

The 7610 gets it's fluid/filter service every spring. I had a bad batch of fuel late last year, so it just had another fuel filter change after I flushed the system,a nd repalced the fuel tap. And the air filter gets checked each month. last year was dusty.. i actually changed the air filter at the spring service, and once during mowing season. The first change i did outter and inner.. 2nd change i just did outter.. inner was clean. For this change i did both again, and threw the few month old inner in a big zip lock bagie as an emergency replacement. Probably being a bit @nal on the air filter change.. but .. it's way cheaper than an engine rebuild.

My 5000 I just got last year anyway, and i refurbed her and finished at thanksgiving, with a complete fluid change.. so she only has about 10 hours on her anyway.. oil is still clear.. etc. So I'll laet that go as this years change.

The 8n, 660 and my allis g get monthly use more or less, so they a yearly oil change. Which i need to get to this month ( I try to get them all on the same day.. but had some extra time yesterday so took advantage of it. )

The rest of the tractors, the NAA, 2n, and JDB, and IH cub have all been 'put up'. Had a service and then drained fuel from them for storage. Just don't have time to drive them.. etc.

Soundguy

BamaRob · Mar 14, 2006

Soundguy,

It sounds like you don't have enough tractors. I'd say you need at least two more, maybe three, to fill your quota. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

I'm glad I'm only having to service one tractor (of my own, I do service my dad's also), one riding mower, one walk-behind mower, one Echo trimmer, two compact pickups (one wrecked, got to pull the dents out), and one car.

BR

Robert_in_NY · Mar 14, 2006

Hey, since I am thinking about it I will give you a shot at answering this question. I had a small fuel leak on my 640. The radiator also leaked so I took off the hood/grill assembly. Removed the radiator and fuel tank and cleaned everything up well. The fuel tank was fine and the only place I can think it leaked is where the rubber hose coming off the bottom of the fuel tank connected to the metal hose leading to the sediment bowl. When I took the tank off the rubber hose fell apart in the compression fitting on the metal hose. I went to my dealer and the computer shows a solid metal hose leading from the bottom of the tank to the sediment bowl. The parts lady said she remembers some of the Ford tractors had the rubber/metal gas lines but can't remember which ones or if the picture is wrong. Do you happen to know if the 640 is supposed to have a solid metal fuel line or the rubber/steel setup?

Wow, that was long winded /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

rambler · Mar 15, 2006

My experience is all xx0 Fords were standard with metal lines, and folks that worked them hard put rubber in to try to get over the vapor lock issues. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Moving the muffler out from under the tank, getting the multi-blade fan, & putting the coil on a 2x2 block of wood to get it away from the heat did the best for our 960s. Kept the metal line.

--->Paul

Soundguy · Mar 15, 2006

Metal line.. and it makes a pretty decent zig-zag path. My 660 still has the metal line.. long sucker..

metal is way safer too.

I've never had or seen a 'real' vapor lock instance on a ford tractor with the updraft carb setups... I have seen lots of bad floats, dirty needles and seats, and plugged filters though.

Same with the coils.. the side mount coils are pretty robust. I recently changed the side mount coil on my 660.. the coil was vintage.. same as my 8n and NAA.. all old coils.. 8n and naa had ford coils on them.. not even 'newer' FOMOCO marks.. but rather the oem ford coils that were fatter around.. coil on the 660 was a 'standard'..

Most problems i see with overheated coils are botched 12v conversion jobs, and / or 9n/2n/early 8n front mount jobs..

That metal line is still available from NH...

Soundguy

Robert_in_NY · Mar 15, 2006

Thanks, that is how the line looked on the computer. I just wanted to make sure as I try my best to keep tractors original.

I am going to clean up the carb and sediment bowl when I get ready to put her back together but right now it is too cold out there and I don't like putting a heater near fuel /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Have fun.

rambler · Mar 15, 2006

( I've never had or seen a 'real' vapor lock instance on a ford tractor with the updraft carb setups... I have seen lots of bad floats, dirty needles and seats, and plugged filters though.
)

Perhaps the bigger engine was worse at it on the 960. We had 2 of them, still have one. With a 4 row cultivator in 98degree heat & tried to get something done in a day, or a 2-16 plow in my clay soil, or running the 4 row stalk chopper, and the muffler would glow red, manifold is cherry. Engine block would be pretty hot, we had problems with the coil until we moved it - didn't replace it, just moved it out into airflow, & isolated from block a bit. Those 960s have way more power than cooling in that tight package, anything to get heat out from the engine, & you can get more work done in an hour......

On the Ollie 88 & now the Super 77, can get the bottom 1/3 of the muffler glowing too, manifold is just scary red when stalk chopping, all those stalks flying about.... The IHC 300 would get a dull red manifold with the 2-16.

We work the stuff here on the farm. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--->Paul

Soundguy · Mar 15, 2006

( Perhaps the bigger engine was worse at it on the 960 )

Could be.. it's a 17sci vs the 134ci naa-600/601 series... Did yours have any sort of heat shield on the fuel line? My 660 has a metal plat that runs near the fuel line at it's closest point to the head/block on my 134ci engine.

Soundguy