Grading Which box blade?

   / Which box blade? #1  

Xtremesvc

New member
Joined
Mar 30, 2007
Messages
20
Location
Canon City, Colorado
Tractor
Kioti CK20HST
:confused: I am needing to get a box blade for an upcoming job and found several in my area for my CK20HST.

1st. Kioti BB20-60 for $585 (5 miles away)
2nd. King Kutter BB-60 for $459 (40 miles away)
3rd. Tarter Gate (American Farmland) BBGR-5 for $540 (35 miles away)

The Kioti dealer says to go with a BB20-48 for $450 due to the CK20 doesnt have enough power to pull all the rippers when a 60" is on it, but I am leaning toward the KK due to price and the 48 inch will not cover the tires. I do not need to put all the rippers down on the 60".

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Bill
 
   / Which box blade? #2  
Mine is a 60 inch wide BB and it will suck every bit of my 30 HP while grading. Your owner's manual lists the maximum implement width and I think that a 60 is going to be too big.

Mine is made by frontier and has held up extremely well to lots of abuse.

I would shop for a new BB by weight, structural integrity, and cost. I also am a big fan of the solid and huge plates that wrap up and become the top link connection point vs. the little cheesy bracket system of some brands.
 
   / Which box blade? #3  
The Kioti website does recommend no larger than a 48" box scraper for the CK20. However, several CK20 owners on here have stated that they use a 60" box with no problems. I split the difference and got a 54" Landpride. I haven't used it much, but it seems to pull it fine. A 48" is narrower than the FEL bucket, and would barely cover the rear tire tracks.
 
   / Which box blade? #4  
It depends on what you are gonna do the most.
If movin' gravel is your main thing.....go 60"
If movin' dirt or using it as a dozer with a box full of dirt OR Gravel....Better go 48".
Even without ALL of the rippersa down a 60 will work a 20Hst hard.
Soil condition means everything.
Sometimes covering your tracks is not an option.
Hosejockeys' 54" would be nice, but it limits you on brand choice

BTI
 
   / Which box blade? #5  
I have the KK BB-60, which I got at TSC for $420.00, and use it with no problems behind a worn out Ford 1310. (rated 19 HP new, but I seriously doubt it makes that much now) I have been leveling areas of heavy clay and rock and can pull a full box easily. Only have a problem when rippers latch on to large rocks and as I keep the speed slow it just stops the machine and starts diggings holes with the tires.
 

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   / Which box blade?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I found a slightly used Land Pride BB15 54" for $400 and the dealer says he will deliver it for me later this week if I buy it today. I am unable to see it due to it being 60 miles away. He says it still has paint on the blade.

The biggest confusion has been the different recommendations that the manual, web site and attachment guides Kioti puts out! They are different for all the attachments for my CK20HST.

The manual says 48" max, but the attachment guide says 60" max for a box blade. The manual is dated 2003.
 
   / Which box blade? #7  
I was thinking of getting a 60" for my CK25 but the dealer said I could go with a 72". I wish they had a trial program where you bring it home try it out, if it is too much then get the smaller one. (or vise versa) Without taking a beating on trading back in.
 
   / Which box blade? #8  
Making sure that the implement covers your tracks is pretty much a golden standard for mowers, tillers, and BBs. I wouldn't go much bigger or smaller than that.
 
   / Which box blade? #9  
I use a 60" KK behind a CK20. I have been know to actually overflow spoils from the box blade. I have found the trick to get it to work is to be smart as to what you are doing.

If I have the rippers clear down and the box tipped forward, don't add extra resistance by trying to move material at the same time. And just the opposite if you are trying to move a lot of material, keep the rippers out of the ground.

When working in rocky or root bound soil, loosen the soil first, taking it easy, as a single rock or root can bring you to a stop. When working in these conditions you do not need to lower all of the rippers. I lower the ones that make the most sense for what I am trying to accomplish. (left, center, or right) Once the ground is loosened, then I move the soil.

When using the bb to move material out of a location I usually distribute the spoils to a collection area. When it gets hard to transverse over the spoils I then move them to the final destination.

I have found that TNT can really have a postive effect in making this even easier. I set the rippers to a point where they don't dig when moving dirt, but a quick adjustment of the top link will let me angle the BB to where the rippers will dig but not accumulate spoils. (the same thing can be done with the manual top link but it is a lot slower.)

If I were doing this again, I would get the 60". Unless I found a really good deal on a 54", and would never buy a 48" since it would not cover my tire tracks.

Just as a side note - I do not have loaded tires or any extra weight added to the tractor (besides the loader), and I for working with dirt, rocks, and clay I have not had an issue with the KK weight. I could see where a weight could be a problem if working a dry compacted soil, I just have not ran into that problem yet.

Attached is a picture of a ditch that I put in over Memorial Day weekend. It primarily consisted of rocks and roots, slow and easy, not a problem (unless you count the one root that I left in place).
 

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   / Which box blade?
  • Thread Starter
#10  
A lot of good info!

I am down to a KK BB-60" for $459 (50 miles away) or a LP BB15-54" (used)$400 delivered.

The 54" gives me a inch on both sides past the tires. The KK would cost be about $20 to pick up. so it would cost me $79 more than the LP, but it is new with a warranty!

Help!
 

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