Who do you buy a pole barn or metal barn kit from ?

[747driver]

I too live in tn I wanted a shop wanted to build myself but knew the wife and I could not do it alone. What I did was had a guy and his crew put in the 6x6s and trusses and roof and gable ends then wife and I did the rest then hired out the concrete after I formed it up may be an option for you to go this way ????

I would like to build it myself and may still go that route. I am 65 and just don't care to climb up on roofs anymore !! I have a quote out to Smokey Mountain pole barns in Sevierville,TN. They are having a Jan. and Feb. special where the labor is free....I know there has to be a catch. But I will look at there quote and see.

 

[sixdogs]

Walters doesn't come down to Tennessee. I do have a quote out to Lester pole barns. Oh...I am doing my homework, its all in the details. I don't want to have to put in a door later...better to get it done while the building is getting framed out. I am not going to rush it !

Good thinking. I have seen Lester Bldg ads for years and would presume they are reliable and believe them to be. An internet check should help you in that regard. I'll bet 99.99% of people build the exact same thing in a barn despite all sorts of intentions. There are mostly just low buck and then high buck versions of the same barn. No weird metal colors. Off-white with medium green 3' strip on the bottom and trim look nice. Maybe same green on roof. It won't bleach out. Morton's site has nice color ideas. No earth tones or dark colors.

When you do agree and start...make zero changes or it will really cost you. Keep it simple and nothing funny. You only need a small window because the light draws the bugs. You need a solid, no window man door or perps will have an easier time trying to break in. Sky lights usually leak. That's all the options there are. Read the Morton website for thoughts and color combos. Screws rather than nails in the metal make any (remote odds) leaks and dents easier to fix. An inside wainscoting stops dents. Screen under the ridge vent keeps birds out but sometimes leaks a lttle. Mouse traps in the early winter.

Build bigger that you think you want or you will wish you did later. One or two end doors and one side door 2/3 of the way back fits the most stuff in and a two or maybe one foot overhang with gutters. You get to build the pad and hire it out. If you want concrete, it goes down afterwards and is 4" or 6" in the middle and 4" on the sides or if you bring combines in, 6" all over. Make the floor extra smooth and of a higher psi mix. Epoxy coat it before you move everything in and read my earlier threads on that.

You can put up an insulation drip barrier in the inner roof but it can also actually increase condensation issues later. I have one barn with one and it actually sweats inside on everything in the spring and everything inside is dripping wet in condensation. The barn with no roof insulation is mostly fine and these are both unheated buildings. Ideal is to heat the building as it warms up. Metal barns can sweat with no inside heat during seasonal moisture changes.

Have a "barn christening" when done and if you can score some old beer or cigarette neon lights, it sets off a romantic glow for you and the wife. Your old 4' high stereo speakers sound great in a barn. Build a 30 ft workbench and find my previous threads on that. Put up maybe 12 ceramic ceiling outlets for 300 watt bulbs and use fluorescents over your work area. Make a rolling 4' x 8' metal table with a plywood top skinned in replaceable Formica and mount your vise to it. See my earlier threads on this.

Did I mention I had built a number of barns built over the years? Good luck.


Edit--The lo-buck barns tend to be 10'on center with the posts while the hi-buk versions are 7'6" on center.

 

[oldpilgrim]

In my previous employed life, I put a 60x80 building out for bid. I got about six proposals.

Morton got the job. They gave us a very nice building.

 

[747driver]

In my previous employed life, I put a 60x80 building out for bid. I got about six proposals.

Morton got the job. They gave us a very nice building.

I am awaiting the quote bid from Morton. They do build nice buildings ! I am getting bids for a all metal barn and a metal pole barn.

 

[747driver]

Good thinking. I have seen Lester Bldg ads for years and would presume they are reliable and believe them to be. An internet check should help you in that regard. I'll bet 99.99% of people build the exact same thing in a barn despite all sorts of intentions. There are mostly just low buck and then high buck versions of the same barn. No weird metal colors. Off-white with medium green 3' strip on the bottom and trim look nice. Maybe same green on roof. It won't bleach out. Morton's site has nice color ideas. No earth tones or dark colors.

When you do agree and start...make zero changes or it will really cost you. Keep it simple and nothing funny. You only need a small window because the light draws the bugs. You need a solid, no window man door or perps will have an easier time trying to break in. Sky lights usually leak. That's all the options there are. Read the Morton website for thoughts and color combos. Screws rather than nails in the metal make any (remote odds) leaks and dents easier to fix. An inside wainscoting stops dents. Screen under the ridge vent keeps birds out but sometimes leaks a lttle. Mouse traps in the early winter.

Build bigger that you think you want or you will wish you did later. One or two end doors and one side door 2/3 of the way back fits the most stuff in and a two or maybe one foot overhang with gutters. You get to build the pad and hire it out. If you want concrete, it goes down afterwards and is 4" or 6" in the middle and 4" on the sides or if you bring combines in, 6" all over. Make the floor extra smooth and of a higher psi mix. Epoxy coat it before you move everything in and read my earlier threads on that.

You can put up an insulation drip barrier in the inner roof but it can also actually increase condensation issues later. I have one barn with one and it actually sweats inside on everything in the spring and everything inside is dripping wet in condensation. The barn with no roof insulation is mostly fine and these are both unheated buildings. Ideal is to heat the building as it warms up. Metal barns can sweat with no inside heat during seasonal moisture changes.

Have a "barn christening" when done and if you can score some old beer or cigarette neon lights, it sets off a romantic glow for you and the wife. Your old 4' high stereo speakers sound great in a barn. Build a 30 ft workbench and find my previous threads on that. Put up maybe 12 ceramic ceiling outlets for 300 watt bulbs and use fluorescents over your work area. Make a rolling 4' x 8' metal table with a plywood top skinned in replaceable Formica and mount your vise to it. See my earlier threads on this.

Did I mention I had built a number of barns built over the years? Good luck.


Edit--The lo-buck barns tend to be 10'on center with the posts while the hi-buk versions are 7'6" on center.

I have bids out also for a all metal barn. Want to compare cost vs pole barn. You are right on keeping it simple....the extra items add up fast ! Waiting for Morton and Lester to come back with a price quote. Thanks for all your advice...it is most helpful !!

 

[747driver]

This is a hard quote for a all metal barn. Think i would buy and install the doors myself. The company is MBMI.

MBMI Premium 40 year Energystar* Building $18,000 ...Freight $1300....TAX FREE!.....14x14 door $1490.....2- 10x10 doors $2200....1- 3070 $400...3in. corning roof insulation w/vapor barrier $1850....6 in. gutters w/ seamless downspouts every frameline w/ kickouts $1000......TOTAL $26,240....After Feb 15 add $ $1600......after March 15 add $3400.......When would you want a purchase order 25% down...75% COD.

 

[fried1765]

Good thinking. I have seen Lester Bldg ads for years and would presume they are reliable and believe them to be. An internet check should help you in that regard. I'll bet 99.99% of people build the exact same thing in a barn despite all sorts of intentions. There are mostly just low buck and then high buck versions of the same barn. No weird metal colors. Off-white with medium green 3' strip on the bottom and trim look nice. Maybe same green on roof. It won't bleach out. Morton's site has nice color ideas. No earth tones or dark colors.

When you do agree and start...make zero changes or it will really cost you. Keep it simple and nothing funny. You only need a small window because the light draws the bugs. You need a solid, no window man door or perps will have an easier time trying to break in. Sky lights usually leak. That's all the options there are. Read the Morton website for thoughts and color combos. Screws rather than nails in the metal make any (remote odds) leaks and dents easier to fix. An inside wainscoting stops dents. Screen under the ridge vent keeps birds out but sometimes leaks a lttle. Mouse traps in the early winter.

Build bigger that you think you want or you will wish you did later. One or two end doors and one side door 2/3 of the way back fits the most stuff in and a two or maybe one foot overhang with gutters. You get to build the pad and hire it out. If you want concrete, it goes down afterwards and is 4" or 6" in the middle and 4" on the sides or if you bring combines in, 6" all over. Make the floor extra smooth and of a higher psi mix. Epoxy coat it before you move everything in and read my earlier threads on that.

You can put up an insulation drip barrier in the inner roof but it can also actually increase condensation issues later. I have one barn with one and it actually sweats inside on everything in the spring and everything inside is dripping wet in condensation. The barn with no roof insulation is mostly fine and these are both unheated buildings. Ideal is to heat the building as it warms up. Metal barns can sweat with no inside heat during seasonal moisture changes.

Have a "barn christening" when done and if you can score some old beer or cigarette neon lights, it sets off a romantic glow for you and the wife. Your old 4' high stereo speakers sound great in a barn. Build a 30 ft workbench and find my previous threads on that. Put up maybe 12 ceramic ceiling outlets for 300 watt bulbs and use fluorescents over your work area. Make a rolling 4' x 8' metal table with a plywood top skinned in replaceable Formica and mount your vise to it. See my earlier threads on this.

Did I mention I had built a number of barns built over the years? Good luck.


Edit--The lo-buck barns tend to be 10'on center with the posts while the hi-buk versions are 7'6" on center.

This is ALL EXCELLENT advice!
The OP should be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN to take the advice of an epoxy floor coating...BEFORE PUTTING ANYTHING INSIDE!
If that floor is not coated BEFORE using the building, it will NEVER be done.
As mentioned before.... I love my now 33 year old Morton.
I thought that building was plenty large enough. Now I have a newer 40' x 50' building right along side.
There is NO SUCH THING AS TOO MUCH SPACE!

 

[roadhunter]

The obvious answer is that if you dont' even know where to buy pole barn kits you probably have no business trying to put one up yourself.

You can always tell a building that has been done by a crew who only does pole barns as every little detail is typically done right. DIY projects typically have sheet metal out of alignment, details in things like trim get missed, ets.. Even putting your laps so they work best with the prevailing wind is something most people miss.

Unless you are very skilled at carpentry type of work I would strongly suggest hiring it out. Same with the concrete. Find other tasks to do yourself on the project.

 

[747driver]

The obvious answer is that if you dont' even know where to buy pole barn kits you probably have no business trying to put one up yourself.

You can always tell a building that has been done by a crew who only does pole barns as every little detail is typically done right. DIY projects typically have sheet metal out of alignment, details in things like trim get missed, ets.. Even putting your laps so they work best with the prevailing wind is something most people miss.

Unless you are very skilled at carpentry type of work I would strongly suggest hiring it out. Same with the concrete. Find other tasks to do yourself on the project.

Guess I could have worded it better. I have built 5 homes and numerous garages etc. I am a skilled carpenter ! I was looking to see who might have used the kits or recommend a pole barn building company. I am 65 now and don't enjoy climbing up on high roofs anymore ! If you start out square and keep it square it will end up square !!