Why not more blade/rake "combos"?

   / Why not more blade/rake "combos"? #1  

madpogue

Silver Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2007
Messages
158
Location
Madison, WI
Tractor
John Deere 790
We're in need of a landscape rake, and will probably want a blade scraper sometime soon. I noticed that, with most mfrs that make both, the part that attaches to the 3PH is the same between the two. Take a look, for example, at the King Kutter rake and blade: KK Blade and KK rake . Tell me that hitch portion is not the EXACT same part.

There's a guy here in WI who makes a few 3PH items, and he sells a rake + blade "combo kit", with just one hitch portion. So you change implements with that pin in the back. Seems like a natural to me that more mfrs would sell the parts separately, or sell a "combo". I mean, why buy (and have to store, etc) two of the same hitch? Or does anybody know if there are mfr's who package implements this way?
 
   / Why not more blade/rake "combos"? #2  
Madpogue:

Both Woods and Land Pride sell a combination back blade-landscape rake unit in which the blade will swing down and "lock in" in front of the rake. The blade is about half the height of their regular back blade on the Woods and probably with the Land Pride unit as well, and both blades can accept side plates. Jay
 
   / Why not more blade/rake "combos"? #3  
Morn madpogue.
York Rake offers fold down grader blade...setup is handy. :)
 
   / Why not more blade/rake "combos"? #4  
Madpogue, I think it is a good idea, in principal.

Rakes typically pivot on a Pin/Bolt, since the tines are designed to flex and be more forgiving. Rear Blades are beefier, and typically rotate on a larger diameter thick steel tube due to the rigidity and stresses they can encounter.
I can safely submit that I would destroy my rakes Pivot Bolt in short order, if it were to try to hold my Grader Blade.

Perhaps in the 4 foot width, they could get away with a combo-unit, but as you get to 6 feet wide, and above, it's typically higher HP machines they are attached to, and at least the Rear Blades need some "beef" to survive the stresses that are placed on them.

As was mentioned, there are combo units out there, but, in some cases you will sacrifice something when comapred to having 2 distinct units. Example, as was mentioned, blade size/height.
 
   / Why not more blade/rake "combos"? #5  
I have a Landpride 6' rake/blade combo with wheels and am tickled pink with it. The rake frame is also used for there back blade. It is quite solid. I use for pasture and arena work, as well as general landscape duties. I use the blade mostly for final grade leveling. For heavier blade work, I have a full size back blade.

peter
 
   / Why not more blade/rake "combos"? #6  
Madpogue,

I use an 8' Woods rake/blade with guage wheels. I have no regrets about this purchase at all. I agree with Drafthorse, that the flip down blade is most useful for final grade leveling and would add.....as opposed to more heavy duty use.

I use this tool for road grading on a few roads with real nice top gravel - where I don't need to worry about digging down into real hard packed material. I also use it for landscape/site work - again not trying to rip up any hardpan.

It's amazing how smooth you can get dirt in preparation for seeding by setting the wheels down a bit on the last pass. If you get a rake, I recommend buying the guage wheels. You can get by w/o them by fussing with the lift height, but on non-flat areas it would be tricky.

The flip down blade on the 8' unit added $200-something to the price.

However, one of the nice things about a dedicated rear blade is that many models can off-set. So you could, for example, drag material back in to the road from the sides and/or work your ditches.

~paul
 
   / Why not more blade/rake "combos"? #7  
I thought the same thing, so when I came across a good deal on a blade, I bought it up. I then proceded to cut the blade off of the pivot section. I welded some steel in between the pivoting supports, and then shortened some cat 1 pins and atached them so they protrude out of the pivoting section. I drilled receiving holes in the blade and then built the typical rake out of 4x4 L. In the L, I put matching receiver holes. I beefed up around the receiver holes and just use lynch pins to swap them out. Works great for my needs.
Dave
 
 

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