Will this work with my TC33D?

Williecoyote · Aug 21, 2005

I just bought a King Kutter 72" box blade. Will my TC33D Hydro be able to pull it in our sandy/rocky soil? I wanted to go with a 66", but would have to special order it and it would take to long to ship. Fleet Farm only gets a couple of shipments a year on KK stuff. The rear wheels on my tractor have about a 60" spread. I would like to know if it will work or not, so I can return it, before I use it. I don't think they want a used box blade back.

TC33DRon · Aug 21, 2005

Have 61" one from tractor suppliy, just a couple inched wider than the tractor. In 1st @ 2800rpm, box can stop my tractor dead!!! Don't beleive I would try a bigger one. Just my 2 pennies......
Ron

DavidJ · Aug 21, 2005

While I can't tell you that it'll work with yours in your area, I own a 72" and have no problems using it moving anything I choose. You may not be able to sink it as deep as you could a 66" but you'll be moving the same amount of material. The only person that can really tell you if it'll work for you is you. The Ideal situation would be for you to rent one and try it.

jjcc246 · Aug 21, 2005

I have a tc 30, hydro, with a 6' kk box and I have no problems. I usally use mid-range, but if I have a full load in the box i'll use low gear and about 2000 rpm's with the machine in 4x4. just go light on the hydro pedal and it'll work just fine. It really doesn't even bogg the engine down I think it's all in the use of the hydro pedal. good luck.

Blues001 · Aug 27, 2005

I have a TC33DA and use a Bush Hog brand 60” Box Blade MBX600. The problem I run into is traction, I have loaded R4 tires and they spin and slip like I am at a tractor pull. I might get AG tires next time around. Nobody in my area thinks tire chains are a good idea. My guess is the 72” will work, but my personal preference would be for the box matched to your tire width.

tractorpilot · Aug 27, 2005

I can give you my take, as I am using a 60" KK boxblade from Fleet Farm. The reason I went with the 60" is that I wanted to cut trails through the woods and wanted a minimum footprint getting between trees. I also use it for grading my crushed granite driveway and doing some leveling for landscape. The driveway and the landscape are not a problem, and the wheel treads do not show - I can get up to the edge of the grass w/o worry. The only thing that has stopped the 60" is some gnarly white pine and hemlock roots caught in the ripper shanks. I just finished roughing out my trails and I had a blast - I am now eyeing up the neighbor's land! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Williecoyote · Aug 28, 2005

Thanks for the input /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gifI tried the 72" BB and the tractor could pull it unless the box was full and I would encounter a sandy section in the drive. Then all 4 tires would spin and I would have to lift the BB to a point where I could move again. That would just leave a big lump in the drive, sort of defeating the purpose of leveling. I took the 72' back to Fleet Farm. Since the BB only had minor paint removal on the sides, they charged me $10. Instead of getting $40 back for the difference between the 72" and 60", they gave me back $30. Not a bad deal! The 60" works better, but even with the smaller one I have spun the tires. It only happens in the sandy sections of driveway. I need to learn how to adjust the BB while on the move. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif If anyone has any pointers on how to use the BB, I'll take'em. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

tractorpilot · Aug 31, 2005

I am learning alot by playing around with the top link adjustment. By adjusting the angle of attack, you can get the get the blade to stay shallow. I now understand why so many posters advocate the use of hydraulic top links - if you have the remote controls to support them. Good luck, keep playing.