Will this zero-turn bypass wire diagram work?

[piaffepony]

Cub 2009ish rzt50 with almost 900 hours. Blades quit engaging in the middle of mowing. Clutch was bad and melted the fuse. Replaced. Didn't work. Retraced electrical and replaced pto switch and key switch (key switch tested okay but felt like it was increasingly hard to turn so went ahead and replaced it too). Worked for a minute and shut off. I retraced/tested again. I figured out that at least one of the neutral switches was working intermittently.

I have 3-4 acres I mow with it and they are quickly growing into a jungle. I have a huge fix it list and I don't have the time to dick around with this anymore. Since I'm not a mechanical genius, I wanted to run it by yall to get your thoughts before I waste anymore time. I want to bypass the reverse mow, lap bar neutrals, and parking break switches. I'm keeping the seat safety switch (my suburbanized fiance or my 13 y/o may help with mowing so it's a safety feature I'd like to keep )

I need to know if the dash module/hour meter will detect/object to these changes? Sufficient grounding? Any other possible issues I'm not thinking about?

I'll post a pic of the original wire diagram for reference as well. Thank you in advance!

 

[jaxs]

No fault of yours (I have poor vision) I can't put the two diagrams togeather. For now and to get grass mowed,I'd cut blue wire just before it connect's to clutch,insulate blue wire leading back to R&L reverse switches and install a single pole/single throw toggle with aproperate amp fuse feeding 12v + to blue wire on clutch. After all this rain has passed and you catch up with mowing,you can return to by-pass switches that interfer with engine operation. Look's like all those are on - side.
A glitz is that starter will operate eventhough pto is engaged. That will destroy starter so operator must be mindful and flip switch to disengage clutch before starting and re-starting.

 

[piaffepony]

No fault of yours (I have poor vision) I can't put the two diagrams togeather. For now and to get grass mowed,I'd cut blue wire just before it connect's to clutch,insulate blue wire leading back to R&L reverse switches and install a single pole/single throw toggle with aproperate amp fuse feeding 12v + to blue wire on clutch. After all this rain has passed and you catch up with mowing,you can return to by-pass switches that interfer with engine operation. Look's like all those are on - side.
A glitz is that starter will operate eventhough pto is engaged. That will destroy starter so operator must be mindful and flip switch to disengage clutch before starting and re-starting.

Thank you for your input! I like that the engine won't run with the clutch engaged because my business is horses... Blades suddently kicking up dust or gravel in addition to starting the engine could easily spook and/or injure a horse and rider. It didn't even occur to me that it would shorten the lifespan of the starter too! so thank you for bringing that to my attention! I just need to get it done for now but will go back and rework a bypass strategy to keep the more important safety features if needed and time permitting..

I just don't want to further damage the mower (like cause a fire or something) and make more work for myself.

 

[piaffepony]

No fault of yours (I have poor vision) I can't put the two diagrams togeather. For now and to get grass mowed,I'd cut blue wire just before it connect's to clutch,insulate blue wire leading back to R&L reverse switches and install a single pole/single throw toggle with aproperate amp fuse feeding 12v + to blue wire on clutch. After all this rain has passed and you catch up with mowing,you can return to by-pass switches that interfer with engine operation. Look's like all those are on - side.
A glitz is that starter will operate eventhough pto is engaged. That will destroy starter so operator must be mindful and flip switch to disengage clutch before starting and re-starting.

Re reading your comment: it has a 20 amp inline fuse from the starter solinoid to the Ignition switch. To clarify, are you suggesting I install a SPST rocker switch with an additional fuse between it and the clutch instead of using the existing PTO switch? Or are you suggesting I use 2 pto switches as an additional safety measure.

Also, if your suggesting I add an additional fuse, is it safe to assume another 20 amp fuse would be sufficient?