Window film

[Adron]

I am in process of adding on a couple of rooms on the south and west of my home. Lots of windows. I think I will like the solar heat gain in the winter, but not sure about the summer. Don't care for curtains or drapes because I have no neighbors and love the lake view.

Some have suggested using a reflective film over the windows, but I'm not sure. Can anyone tell me of your experiences with the reflective window film? Does it make the rooms really dark on overcast days? Suggestions?

 

[DocHeb]

We've been very happy over the last 15 years with the 3M products - we got the highest UV protection with the medium darkening. The only time you notice it is when the window is open and you can see the shaded and unshaded light next to each other.

Looking out the windows with the film is like putting on a pair of Polarizing Sunglasses - it's refreshing on a bright day, and REALLY decreases fading.

Make sure they put the film on the windows on a cooler day and not in the direct sunlight. The only problem we've had is several windows they installed in the hot August sun - the film dried too quickly and wrinkled a bit, giving a wavy appearance that wasn't visible until the next day. They did pull it off and replace it a week later and it was fine.

 

[geneP]

I can't advise you on the window film, but last spring we added a room with a 24' wall facing the southwest. We installed double pane Azure coated vynl windows under a 3' overhang. They are Mayfair brand. The windows are 6', so they reach within a foot of the floor. In mid summer we only have late afternoon sun in the windows. Using a laser thermometer, the inside window surface is 10 degrees warmer than the adjacent wall with brick exterior and R19 walls at the point the sun shines on them. Mid winter they get just about full sun and the room only gets a couple of degrees warmer than adjacent rooms. I was concerned about the central air being able to handle the extra area and made provisions to add an auxialary ac out there, but the central unit was able to maintain the house with several 101 degree days last summer and actually cycled while doing it. We now have just over 2000 sf using a Trane 30,000 btu unit with variable speed air handler.

It's easy to use various lengths of board at mid day held out from the wall at the house eave to see were the sun will hit. extra over hang is cheap and construction time is the time to do it. You could also try the windows for a year and add the film later if needed.

 

[Bird]

Adron, we bought a little mobile home nearly 3 years ago; just sold it and bought a house last September. But when we bought that mobile home, we put a window film on all the windows ourselves. Home Depot had a variety of them. I can't remember exactly which one I selected, but it was one that you put on with just soapy water and a squeege. It stayed in place very well for the over 2 years we lived there, although you can easily remove it if you want to. The instructions with it even suggested putting it on in the summer and removing it during the winter, then re-using it the next summer. But we just put it on and left it.

 

[B8FISH]

We've been using window film on our 1820's house to help with fading issues on the historic wallpaper etc. that we have installed. We put the film on the storm windows as putting 12 little pieces on each window opening would have been WAY to time consuming. We leave the storms on year round--they swing out from the top, and put in the little slider screens in the window opening if we need the extra ventilation--usually only about 5-10 days a year. The film is much more noticeable from the outside than the inside. We have 1 room that is all wood, and has no film on its windows, and you really don't notice the difference when you go from one room to the next. We have installed it ourselves--like Bird said goes on with water/baby shampoo solution. It's not too hard, and would be even easier if you had metal windows. We usually oversize the piece, put it in the window woth the soapy water, and then trim to get an exact fit--but we have wooden storms so the trimmer needs to be really careful. I believe that we get ours from SunGaurd--and buy the scrap from other jobs--we can usually get a 25' or so roll leftover from a 200' roll which really cuts the cost.

 

[Alan L.]

I have been going through that thought process in building my new house. Good window manufacturers like Andersen have glass that blocks much of the heat and UV while allowing the light. Plus the entire windows are energy efficient.

The downside is that they are pricey.

 

[Adron]

I am using double glazed windows from Quaker. U Factor .49 Solar heat gain .61 Visable light transmittance .63.
All of which mean absolutely nothing to me. I got 2 windows from Pella@ .43/.48/.49 respectivly. Course the Pellas were over twice as expensive. Then again the Quakers were returns from a HUGE house that the owner changed the design about a dozen times, so I got them at a really good price. These are all vinyl with built in "J" channel. I hope they are OK as I am over 25% glass on the south side.

Haven't installed any deck covering on that side, but it is designed so I can add it on easily later.

 

[KubotaSteve]

I used to work at a place that sold windows, doors, gutter and vinyl siding. We sold a brand of window called Simonton and they were comparable to Andersen windows as far as ratings go. One of our salesmen was building his house and he put those windows in with Low E and Argon. I saw the windows in the warehouse and they were pretty awesome. He said they cut down on the UV and made the rooms cooler. I have the Simonton windows in my house and wish I would have gotten the low E argon. They are really nice windows at a good price too. Check them out at Simonton Windows

 

[Alan L.]

The energy star website recommends a U factor of less than or equal to .40 and a solar heat gain of less than or equal to .55 for Missouri.

However I suspect the windows you have are much better than average windows.