Winterize my H?

[roxynoodle]

Is there anything special I need to do for my H this winter? I have an engine block heater for the Yanmar but since the H is a gas engine I'm thinking it doesn't need one. It will be used throughout the winter and if I go for more than a week without using it due to weather, I was planning on starting it and running it for awhile. It has a 12 volt conversion and so far is still starting on the first try (our coldest temp so far has been 15 degrees). This is my first vintage tractor so I figured I should ask/seek advice.

 

[Nat]

Make sure the antifreeze is ok and you should be ready to go. Later, Nat
BTW, did you ever order a gas cap?

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Farmall gas engines that are in relatively decent tune will start first time, every time. If you are just pulling a spreader for a few minutes at a time, you should cover the grill as the radiators on Farmalls are about double the capacity that is needed. If you your H still has its thermostat, its probably a 160 degree unit. Need to cook the condensation out of the engine/pan every week or so. Bobg in VA

 

[roxynoodle]

Make sure the antifreeze is ok and you should be ready to go. Later, Nat
BTW, did you ever order a gas cap?

Yes, the gas cap came within a week. It is a big, ugly one but that's ok. Thanks for that info! My newest project is to replace the seat bushings. I got some a few days ago but haven't had time to put them in yet.

How long should the tractor run to burn off any condensation in the thermostat? I will probably only be spreading when the ground is frozen because the farmer disced up the field behind me and I don't want to get the tractor stuck (or buried!). I think he was stuck because he finished in the low spot and left the tractor there until Sunday. We had several inches of rain on Friday and then everything froze. The rain was so extreme though that most of the rivers, creeks and ditches overflowed their banks and really made a mess. This morning is the first time it has been over freezing since the rain so I know today everything will be wet and mud.

 

[Egon]

Put in a block heater or in-line hose heater. Those older tractors didn't start worth a dam in cold weather.

Many had a team of horses placed in front of them to pull start them.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Put in a block heater or in-line hose heater. Those older tractors didn't start worth a dam in cold weather.

Many had a team of horses placed in front of them to pull start them.

Egon, not sure which planet your Farmall was from, but if you got spark, gas, and air into a C, H, or M (or any of their Super brothers), they would fire right up. I regularly start a '53 Super C with the hand crank on the first pull, just because I can.

As far as how long to run them, the condensation will build up in the pan and the valve cover (above the engine). Simple fix is take a double thick plasic trashbag and duct tape it over the grill. Some folks may say don't, but theres' plenty of space between the grill and the radiator that some air can get thru. This will help you engine warm up faster and stay warm longer so that the block temp can get up enough to evaporate any condensation. BobG in VA

 

[scott_vt]

Mornin Rox,
As Bob stated if they are in tune and timed properly they will start fairly easy. Other than the tuning and timing and antifreeze, I also use straight 20 wt as opposed to 30 wt for easier winter starting.

Thats just a suggestion

 

[Egon]

Same planet as everyone else. Lets try -25C and see what happens.

 

[Nat]

Now Egon, everyone knows if it's that cold there is no need to even go outside, I don't think I start at -25C. I have a hard time getting moving if it less that 50 F. Later, Nat

 

[roxynoodle]

If it's -25F I'm only going out for animal care (admittedly several times due to freezing water buckets and their need for extra calories in such temps). If it's -25C I will not be running a tractor or anything else!

My tractor is parked indoors, although it's an old corncrib and not entirely wind proof. Is condensation still a big enough problem that I need to cover the grill?

If this is a normal year I don't expect any real air temps below -10F. The coldest I can ever remember was -28F in 1994.

 

[Egon]

Animals like getting fed in order to gain weight and stay alive. The Farmer just naturally responds to this need as this is his business.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

If it's -25F I'm only going out for animal care (admittedly several times due to freezing water buckets and their need for extra calories in such temps). If it's -25C I will not be running a tractor or anything else!

My tractor is parked indoors, although it's an old corncrib and not entirely wind proof. Is condensation still a big enough problem that I need to cover the grill?

If this is a normal year I don't expect any real air temps below -10F. The coldest I can ever remember was -28F in 1994.

Condensation can and does form on the outside of metal objects whenever the humidity dictates. You can actually see the beads of water on the block and trans when this happens. Guess what, if its on the outside, its also on the inside. Also when you start and run for just a few minutes the warmth of the engine and the surrounding cold create the condensation on the outside (you may not notice it as it evaporates away) as well as the inside. Thing is, the inside doesn't evaporate away nearly as fast, so any moisture left goes right into the oil, giving it a grayish look. so the the answer is yes, cover the grill. Trust me, if your water pump is working at all, you can't overheat the H. You can check your water pump buy starting the tractor and taking off the radiator cap. You will see water pumping up in there or at least quite a movement of the water once the thermostat opens. BobG in VA

 

[jimmysisson]

I agree about the starting, my old A would start one or two pulls up on the crank any weather, and it was clapped out and nearly used up. Also agree minus 25 is pretty cold for asking a tractor to actually move - anything that was wet is hard as a rock, and freezes around tires and buckets tight as anything. Gotta feed the critters but on small scale better by hand at those temps.
Jim

 

[Ledgemere Farm]

LOL, every old IH we had on our farm was parked on a hill. If you stalled it out in the field you were done until someone cam eout to give you a tow...

 

[roxynoodle]

This doesn't have anything to do with winterizing but I finally have a gear shift knob now and I replaced the seat bushings. I don't know if replace is the right word since 2 were missing... there was a piece of heater hose shoved in there! So I now have a stable seat and hopefully don't have to worry about anyone falling off of it. I also managed to come up with a new jar precleaner. The old one was very damaged where the jar screwed in and had a huge dent in the top of it. Been keeping my eyes open for a PTO shield and battery box (preferably original and reasonably priced).

 

[BobG_in_VA]

As far as the battery box and PTO shields are concerned, good luck to find an original in decent shape that is reasonably priced. Only way I believe you can put all that together is find an H in a barn that has that stuff and the "old guy" that owns it doesn't want it anymore...and tells you to pls take it. I've got an orginal battery box for a Super C that we've had for 40 years (in the shop/not on a tractor). I use it to hold bolts now, as I wouldn't part with it for less than $65 w/o the top. Suggest you try and find a replica on ebay--which you will still pay about $65 for....I understand an orginal IH muffler for any of the letter series goes for upwards of $100 USED! (actually has an IH logo on the muffler). good luck in your search. Merry Christmas! BobG in VA

 

[roxynoodle]

All true. I may very well end up with reproduction parts as far as the battery box and PTO shield. I've been watching ebay daily and looking at ads in antique tractor magazines. I'm also keeping my eyes out as I drive around for any H's in non running condition for which I may be able to get parts from.

Merry Christmas and thanks everyone for your info and insight! I know I'll be looking for your experience and guidance when I actually get to restoring it.