Winterizing my vacant house

[scesnick]

I live on top of a brutally cold and windy mountain. I also have a 2.5 mile driveway to get to the house. It is a major undertaking to keep this road open on a daily basis.
So, since the wife recently opened her own office and it has two nice little apartments behind it, I think e are gonna move down off the mountain in the winter. Well, atleast for the really snowy month of February anyway.

My question is this, what is the best way to winterize my house? It has electric heat (which I never use) and a coal boiler with oil backup. I was thinking of some way to possibly drain the pipes? or maybe some electric heat tape on the pipes? anyone have any suggestions/ tips on how to do this properly?

 

[/pine]

is there a crawl space under the house? is it underpinned ? if so you can use a temperature switch and a few 20W lights...

another factor is condensation...in our cabin that is left all winter...I have learned to leave the upper (clear story wall) windows slightly cracked...what happens is...if there is big difference between day and night temperatures and there is more than 30% (or so ) humidity...the moisture will condense and permeate towels, bedding etc...and make it very musty.

my plumbing is not a problem because when I built the cabin I pitched the water service lines so they are easy to drain....but don't forget to either empty your p-traps or add a little anti-freeze...I "pickle" the washing machine and toilet with anti-freeze also...

 

[Storm56]

A couple of ways. You can use compressed air to blow out the pipes or you can pump RV anti freeze through them. You will have to scoop out the toilets and put anti freeze in them. Use anti freeze in all the sink and shower traps. Do not forget your washing machine, dishwasher and icemaker if you have one. Remove all freezables from your cabinets.

If you have baseboard heat you will have to address that too. Same deal, blow the lines out or put hydronic heating fluid in them. Do not forget to drain your hot water heater unless it is in a basement or crawl space that will not freeze.

Be sure to flip the breaker off for the well pump.

 

[/pine]

when dealing with p-traps, toilets etc...I use a siphon pump...actually I reuse the anti-freeze from the toilet(s) using a pump (like below) so it does not end up in the septic system

 

[scesnick]

It is log home with a full basement under it and all my pipes are easiily accessable. I was thinking of just leaving the water heater on.

In my utility room in the basement where my pressure tank sits is the low point in my pipes. Would it be possible to just add something like a boiler valve to drain the pipes?

The house would not be vacant for more than a month and I would be visiting the house atleast every other day to feed the horses and dogs.

I don't want to just leave the electric heat on for obvious reasons. I usually heat the house with my coal boiler which does have an oil backup on it. If worst comes to worst i can always just run the oil burner. My main concerns are the pipes. the anti freeze will also be used.
I never though about the dish washer though....

 

[dave1949]

I think there are two options in your situation.

1) Keep minimal heat on but do some freeze protection too. RV antifreeze costs a bit, so compare what you think your electric bill would be to the cost of draining and antifreeze.

2) No heat and be prepared to antifreeze everything.

If you are close enough to get to the house in an hour or so, sounds like you will be not too far away, you can use a remote temperature and power monitor which will call a pre-programmed phone number to alert you that the temp has dropped below a threshold, or the power is out. This will happen at 2am in the midst of an ice storm or mini-blizzard - without fail You can also call the monitor and get the power status and temperature.

Dave.

 

[scesnick]

you can use a remote temperature and power monitor which will call a pre-programmed phone number to alert you that the temp has dropped below a threshold, or the power is out. This will happen at 2am in the midst of an ice storm or mini-blizzard - without fail You can also call the monitor and get the power status and temperature.

Dave.

Great info Dave. I would have never thought of this but I am going to get one for sure. Now I need to track one down.

 

[Storm56]

Opinions vary but my thoughts are you either go all the way and do it right or just keep the heat on and pay the bill. No disrespect intended but I never had good luck by doing things half a****.

 

[rjkobbeman]

Since you are going to be away for a relatively short period of time, I would leave the heat on but... but just turn it WAY down. Turning your heat down to 40 or 50 degrees will do wonders to your utility bill. People talk about huge savings from cranking down the heater from 70 to 68. Down to say 45 would probably be a bill that is more desireable than all the winterizing for what a month or so?

 

[dave1949]

Great info Dave. I would have never thought of this but I am going to get one for sure. Now I need to track one down.

One source: Remote Monitors and Alarms with integrated Auto-Dialers and Ethernet Connectivity for temperature, environment monitoring The company name is microtechologies inc.

Also check green house supply companies as they use them for obvious reasons.

I have an old (10 years) model from Temperature Guard. It worked well and saved my bacon once. The only caveat is you will get called if the power is off for 15 minutes or so. It can be annoying being woken up so you can worry about it :laughing:

I don't think it is half-as*** if you are near enough to respond and take reasonable precautions.
Dave.