Wood Fence Post Choices

3BPercherons · Jul 27, 2010

FWIW, most of the horse fencing around these parts (KY's Bluegrass region) are constructed using 4" to 6" CCA treated round posts spaced 8' apart. For 3 and 4 plank fences, 1"x6"x16' oak or poplar boards are the standard choice. For wire fences either 2x4 woven wire or diamond mesh woven wire is used, normally with a single plank "sight board" run across the top of the wire to protect it from bending if the horses lean on the fence.

skipper386 · Apr 8, 2011

Hi. A wooden fence post snapped in high winds due to its rotting at ground level. I have removed the post and have a replacement and some wood to repair the fence panels but can't get the wet fibres of wood left in the ground out. They are quite deep and there is concrete on one side. I have tried hammer and chisel and burning it but cannot get it all out to make the hole deep enough for the post. Is there some chemical or tree stump treatment that can dissolve the wood quickly ? Ordinary DIY stores do not seem to have anything.

words and hearts should be handled with care for words when spoken and hearts when broken are the hardest things to repair. ~ property maintenance adelaide

Harry Palmer · Apr 8, 2011

I used to dig a lot of holes and bury good wood in it for my fences. :laughing: I found out a few things to extend the life of the post. One, I dig the hole two feet deeper than I want the post, then fill it with gravel (this lets the water drain). Two, I always make sure the bottom of the post is treated, for example if you cut a 10' post so you can save $$, you must put the treated part in the ground and top the post with a repellant (like roofing tar). Third, I add a cross-piece to the post about 6 inches underground. You can put it anywhere, but it keeps the post from turning. Just make sure the post is lined up. Fourth, I use dirt to hold the post into the ground. I use a 10' round bar to pack the dirt. Although this is tougher to do than concrete, I don't have to worry about the concrete eating holes in the post. I read about some fence posts put into the ground in England about 1880 which are still in good shape (unlike me :ashamed: ). Of course, they used whole trees with the stump as the base. The picture showed the base of the hole as being wider than the shank part of the hole, this allowed the base are to be very tightly pounded and packed. If using concrete, this would be a good way to ensure the post doesn't move -even in an eathquake :laughing:

Harry Palmer · Apr 8, 2011

Skipper386, If keeping the post in the same position is critical, then I would modify the post you put in the ground. Cut two pieces of treated wood (coat the cut areas with a water repellent or maybe roofing tar) and attach them to the base of the new post. You can space the additions to the side so you bypass the existing broken post. Think of it as looking like the front fork on a bicycle. Your new post would be centered where the old post was located, but the anchoring parts would be to either side of the post you can't remove. To ensure it doesn't rot off again, make sure, if you are using concrete, to bring it up at least two inches above ground level and bevel it off so water won't puddle. Some people will add caulk of something equivalent after the concrete has cured. Good luck. :thumbsup: