Wood GSS60P Grader Scraper

Ironheadchop · Apr 24, 2021

Hello, just purchased a Woods grader scraper. Have 3,00ft long gravel driveway that I have been using a regular blade and back blading it with but over the years its developed some pretty good wash boarding in places that the regulars blade just wouldnt take out. I was looking at the grader scraper and how much better they made the roads look after using them so i went and bought one. Does anyone have one that they use? Trying to get some tips/tricks on using and setting one up and adjusting the blade heights. I used mine today for about an hour and it kept leaving drag marks from the side shoes in the driveway if i had it all the way down. I had to just barely have it down to not leave the marks, but then it didnt seem to cut the grade that much. DO i need to do it in steps like lower the blades past the shoes then cut it, then go back and raise then to smooth it out?

oosik · Apr 24, 2021

I had to look up the Woods - just like my Land Pride grading scraper. I have a mile long gravel driveway. I set the blades about one inch BELOW the side boards. No matter where you set the blades - the side boards or, as you call them - side shoes - they are going to leave marks. They are outside the blades and are not affected by how the blades are set. If your only problem is the two drag marks left by the side boards - you don't have a problem.

I set the LPGS(land plane grading scraper) flat on the ground. I can/will make small incremental adjustments on the go with my hydraulic top link. It does make the driveway smooth as a babies behind.

My Land Pride has scarifiers. They are used for scarifying pot holes, wash out, riffles, etc so the added material will incorporate with the existing material.

Ironheadchop · Apr 25, 2021

Do you float it just till the blades touch or do you drop the whole scraper down and drag it?

oosik · Apr 25, 2021

I drop the LPGS down - hard on the ground. No floating with this implement. Then with the hydraulic top link I will make adjustments so that material piles up evenly in front of and flows over both blades.

It's the side plates that allow you to drop the LPGS down hard on the ground. They prevent the implement from just digging deeper and deeper.

Completely different than my VERY heavy rear blade. If I drop the rear blade down hard on my driveway - one of two things will happen. I will dig a trench eight feet wide and all the way to China OR the dirt load on the rear blade will, soon, have all four wheels spinning and digging holes in my driveway.

The fact that you DO NOT have to float the LPGS is what makes this implement so easy to learn and use.

Just hook it up - drop it hard on the ground - drag it.

Thomas · Apr 25, 2021

One trick you could try if blade turns 180 degrees rotate blade than lightly drag for the finish touch.

oosik · Apr 25, 2021

Thomas - he is using a LPGS not a rear blade. But, yes, it you are using a rear blade - 180 degree rotation turns the rear blade into an almost single blade LPGS.

Ironheadchop - I should amplify on my terminology. To me - "floating" an implement on the 3-point means you have allowed the implement to engage the ground but are controlling its "depth of dig".

Hard down on the ground - you are allowing the implement to control its own depth of dig.

Egon · Apr 25, 2021

If you got potholes scarifying, grading and packing is about all the works to eliminate a pothole. Grading potholes smooth works and looks good but will not last. The pothole is still there just filled with loose material.

oosik · Apr 25, 2021

Absolutely, Egon. If you don't scarify a pothole as the initial stage of repair - you still have a pothole. It's just been filled with unconsolidated material.