Wood Heat

   / Wood Heat #1  

brewerbob

Bronze Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2001
Messages
94
Location
Ferry County, Washington
Tractor
Deere 4300 HST
We live pretty far out, and when I retired, I decided a good way for me to get my exercise was to have wood heat. I've cut, split, and stacked 4-1/2 cords of wood so far this summer, and have given my arthritic shoulders and elbows fits. Yesterday, I got up on the roof to look at my furnace pipe. It had gotten where it didn't want to draw last winter, and even if I swept the pipe, it wouldn't draw very well. I decided that there wasn't enough metalbestos up there, so I climbed up on my VERY steep metal roof and added 3 feet on to it. It was then that I discovered the cap was almost plugged with creosote. I can sweep the pipe from inside the garage during the winter, but I can't get on that steep roof because of snow and ice. I'm hoping that the increased height will add enough velocity to the smoke that I won't have the problem again. I have a wood stove also, and it's never had that type of problem. Anyone have any experience with these things???
Bob
 
   / Wood Heat #2  
Bob -- We have that problem during rain or wet snowfall. The end of the flue cools so fast in those conditions the creosote builds up in big bubbles. After a couple times crawling up the peak of the roof, and out of sheer frustration, I bought some of those little shot shells for my .22 and blasted from the elbow out the top of the metalbestos pipe. Didn't really expect it to work, but it did no damage to the pipe and absolutely SCOURED it clean!

Can't say I'd recommend this, but it sure works for me! /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Pete

www.GatewayToVermont.com
 
   / Wood Heat #3  
I have a related question. For years I have heard people say, don't burn pine because of creosote build up. Now I have heard some people say that with the newer cleaner burning wood stoves that it is not a problem. I believe the idea is that they burn hotter and divert the gasses throught the stove to reburn, leaving less nasty stuff to go up the flue. I understand that pine does not make as good of fire wood, but we are looking at a 90 acre tract of land that is all pine and very little hardwood. I would hate to move to a 90 acre woods and think that I had to buy firewood.
Any opinions??

MarkV
 
   / Wood Heat #4  
I took my cap off,it was just catching creosote and was causing uggly stains down the side of the chimney(what good do they do anyway). A few winters ago,my father in law was working on his gas furnace in the basement(the blower I believe) he had a few glowing coals in his fireplace in the adjacent room. He ended up while working on his gas furnace getting carbon monoxide poisioning. The gas company came out and checked the gas furnace out,it was fine no leaks,the only conclusion they could come up with was:The fireplace had hot smoldering coals,my father in law in the adjacent room was working on the gas furnace. The fireplace chimney had a cap on the flue,we had a deep snow on and had the cap all but blocked off.The gas furnace blower was running and pulling a backdraft of carbon monoxide from the smoldering coals in the fireplace and effectively overcome my father in law. His first oppurtunity after getting out of the hospital he had,he took the cap came off the fireplace.
So be careful,if in doubt get a profesionals advice.
 
   / Wood Heat #5  
once you get the chimmey clean( should clean every 2-3 cords burnt, you can get a chemical that you put onto the coals to reduce this build up. I got the stuff from the chimmey sweep who cleans my chimmey
 
   / Wood Heat #6  
I've heated with pine and fir for 28 years, and have owned 8 different stoves in that time. The last and best is a Blaze King catalytic. I've used it for the last 8 winters here in N. Idaho using 3.5 cubic cords a season for the sole source of heat in 1500 square feet. I clean the chimney once in the fall. Wood stoves were a hot item in the 70's (that was a bad pun, stick around it gets worse) then they kind of fell out of favor when fuel prices stabilized and even dropped some. new 1990 EPA emission standards put some makers out of business and it is very expensive to have a stove tested to the emissions requirements. Catalytic stoves easily make the standards, but they are not idiot proof. Improper use destroys the combustor, and cost about 180 bucks to replace. To keep cost down and allow for the "dipstick" factor, non-catalytic, low emission stoves were developed. These work essentially by building a rather small fire in a small insulated box that concentrates the heat in the burn area. The smoke that escapes the burn area is routed around a hot channel and fed air to encourage it to burn. It works! At least it sounds good, until you own one.
Small firebox, small fire-reload 6 times aday, drink lots of water before bed so you have to get up anyway. Did I mention you have to reload during the night too??? If you damper the fire down to stretch the burn time, it will creosote just like any other (non-cat) woodstove.
To get the efficient burn, the heat is concentrated in the firebox area, rather than radiating out in the room. Most of these stoves look like a nuclear reaction took place in the firebox after 2 years. The firebrick and metal are toast. If you need alot of heat, don't buy one of these turkeys. They are made to meet emissions standards, heating your house is NOT what they are designed to do, not pleasantly at any rate. At least they have glass doors so you can see the fire.
A "cat" stove like the Blaze King ( can burn over 24 hours on a full load) thrives on pine and fir although hardwood is better. The cat reacts to the creosote and puts out alot of heat from the reaction. 2 cords of wood can deliver the same heat as 3 cords burned in a conventional stove, by burning the creosote that normally goes up (and in) your chimney.
In case any of you sharp eyed woodburners has noticed that I have not mentioned the Vermont line of cat stoves, there is a reason. I once owned a Consolidated Dutchwest and it is not in the same league with a Blaze King. Not even close.
Having said all that, if a cat stove is not practical, creosote is something that has to be dealt with. First, burn a small, hot fire (sound familiar?) Do not damper the fire down! Burn only DRY wood. This will cut down the creosote, but is a lousy fire if you want long, uniform heat.
 
   / Wood Heat #7  
But does it really work that well? :)
 
   / Wood Heat #8  
Does it really work that well?
We went to the inlaws for Christmas one year, I loaded it up with all the larch I could fit in the 4 1/2 cubic foot firebox and set the automatic damper on low. 39 hours later we got home, the stove had a coal the size of a liter bottle still glowing and the house was 55 degrees. Anybody with a Blaze King will be able to tell you similar experiences, people that have no experience with them think I'm pulling their leg.
 
   / Wood Heat #9  
Treeboone,
Thanks for the information. We have a Jotul wood stove with a catalytic coverter that we put in our mountain house. We have only used it one season and only burned hardwood. Very happy so far, but I am sure it would not burn for 30+ hours. As it is our biggest problem is that it will run you out of the house.

Thanks on the information about burning pine.

Markv
 
   / Wood Heat #10  
Woodheat is not the best when temps outside are over 45 degrees. Spring and fall are tough, because it is marginally cold to call for a fire. After the middle of November, my stove will not go out until the middle of Feb.,The Jotul has a good reputation and is very well built. It differs in a couple of ways, the size of the fire box is alot smaller,the Blaze King has almost a 5 cubic foot fire box.,( big unsplit logs burn alot longer)
The feature that very few stoves have, I dont know why, is the automatic thermostat. Some years ago there was a company named Ashley that built a very economical barrel stove with this type thermostat. They cost about 200 bucks at the time. This thermostat, used on the Blaze King and some of the old Earth Stoves automatically regulates the air intake to keep the heat steady. It is alot like the old manifold butterflys in engines that closed when cold and opened up when operating temps were reached. Picture that in reverse. Imagine setting the desired temperature on the stove and rarely having to adjust it again. Usually you would get up to turn down the stove when the room got too hot, then later when you got cold, go and turn it back up and so on. I set mine and don't touch it but maybe 2 or 3 times in the winter.
 

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