Wood Retaining Wall Help

[Redneck_Randy]

I need to build a retaining wall about 12 foot long and 3 feet in height. I would like to used wood but not sure what type of wood I need to us. Don't want somethhing that will rot in just a few years. I will coat the dirt side of the wall with a tar type of coating to prevent wood rot from the inside out. I don't want to us RR ties. What type of wood should I us? Below are a couple pics of what I would like for it to look like and the style of wall I will build.

Thanks

 

[scott_vt]

Hi Randy,
If your set on using wood, it needs to be pressure treated or it will rot rather quickly

It does sound that its not very large, so Im wondering if you considered using the new interlocking blocks to build it with instead ? They have all types and colors to choose from and it should last forever

 

[WhyNot]

Randy,
When I worked for a landscaper we would use pressure treated 6x6's rated for ground contact. We did not do anything special with the post except paint the cut end's with some sort of water proofer the name escapes me right now but I believe it was the same thing they use to pressure treat the lumber. I do know it is green.

 

[goaliedad]

If cedar is available at a decent price it may be a good option. Of course QUALITY pressure treated is one way to go. I say quality because so much PT will twist and bend as it dries. If you go with PT I would not have it on the job site any earlier than needed- get it delivered and installed before it has a chance to warp. That's me 2 pennies!

 

[Bird]

If you're sure you want to use wood, then the other guys have given you good advice. And I'm sure there are people who would disagree, but there's no way I'd build a retaining wall with wood unless I intended to sell the place to an enemy within the next 10 years.

 

[turnkey4099]

If you're sure you want to use wood, then the other guys have given you good advice. And I'm sure there are people who would disagree, but there's no way I'd build a retaining wall with wood unless I intended to sell the place to an enemy within the next 10 years.

Amen to that. I have almost 300' x 5' tall retaining wall built using RR ties. Posts were #1. Wall was whatever I could find, mostly 3s and culls. Been there since late 70s with no signs of failue (yet) but a fence I built many, many years later using the same quality posts and removed last year had over half of the posts rotted off at ground level. I can only assume my retaining wall is in the same condition.

Harry K

 

[mathey]

Pressure treated lumber exposed to the elements rots, the stuff below grade won't be affected much...we tore down a retaining wall that had been installed more than 15 years ago...everything NOT exposed was fine even to the point of still having the new greenish tinge, including the "dirt side", but the outer surfaces were pretty well gone.

 

[Redneck_Randy]

Thanks for all the input everyone. Not sure now what direction I will go. A wood wall I could do but I'm not rock or brick man by any means. Received a bid for a cinder block wall wrapped on the none dirt side with rock. The bid is just beyond what I can afford.

 

[tlbuser]

as Scott Vt suggested. The interlocking blocks are rather easy to install ( no mortar) and look, IMO, so much better. As long as the first course is set flat and level, no problems from there up. For the size you're considering, this should work well. http://www.rockwoodwalls.com/subcat...=false&by_title=true&category=1&subcategory=9

 

[IH3444]

Another advantage to the interlocking block wall, is that it will allow water to pass through. You may or may not be concerned with hydrostatic pressure. Solid cinderblock wall, with mortor will seal the water behind it. Wood may or may not do the same thing. Wood gets wet and swells, sealing itself. Just thoughts.......

 

[Kenster67]

Last year I built a wood retaining wall roughly 70 foot long and 4 foot high that extended off of our garage. I bought 6x6 steel H-beam that was cut into approximately 7 foot lengths. I cemented these vertically in the ground every 6 feet with the open channels of the H-beam facing each other. I then had black locusts milled to 6x6 and cut to an approximate 7 foot length. I cut each locust post to fit between the channels horizontally and routed the outside corner edges with a roundover bit. I had to work a little bit to get the first course level but after that each successive post slid right down on top of the other. A French drain was put in behind the wall and I back filled with 2b stone. I don't know if locust is available in your area but it is the wood of choice for the Amish here in Central Pa when they put up fences as it just doesn't seem to rot. For less than $2000 I've got a 70 foot wall that won't push and will last for a long time. If you can't quite picture what I've tried to explain, I've got some pictures I could e-mail you.

Ken

 

[jinman]

Thanks for all the input everyone. Not sure now what direction I will go. A wood wall I could do but I'm not rock or brick man by any means. Received a bid for a cinder block wall wrapped on the none dirt side with rock. The bid is just beyond what I can afford.

Randy, I don't know where you are located in OK, but between Bowie and Sunset, TX on Rt. 101, there is a sawmill (Stice Sawmill) that cuts old telephone poles into perfect 6" x 6" timbers. The smell a little of creosote for the first few months, but they sure make perfect retainer walls. For wood, they are hard to beat.

I can get you their phone number if you are interested.

 

[CurlyDave]

I would price out the interlocking block wall before getting my heart set on wood.

I think you will find that it is more durable, easier to install, and less expensive.

You really don't need much rock or masonry skill. Just place the blocks, and the drain rock.

I saw interlocking blocks at Lowes about a month ago that were 16" long and 6" high for about $5 each. You would need 54 of them for a wall 12' long and 3' high.

 

[AchingBack]

Randy, I built a wall like the one in the picture, only much larger, and with a small hillside behind it. It is constructed of pressure treated 6"x9"x8' landscape timbers. This was over fifteen years ago and shows no signs of rotting. The reason being: behind the wall I installed landscape fabric, a 4" drain line, and drain rock on top. This kept all of the moisture away from the back side of the wall. On a wall the height of your, unless there will be a lot of hydraulic pressure, you can probably skip the deadmen. Just make sure each course of timbers is set back about and inch or two, and angled slightly toward the back side of the wall.

 

[rox]

Thanks for all the input everyone. Not sure now what direction I will go. A wood wall I could do but I'm not rock or brick man by any means. Received a bid for a cinder block wall wrapped on the none dirt side with rock. The bid is just beyond what I can afford.

Randy I never built a floor in a stone Borie before, using brick pavers but my husband and I did it! He did all the heavy lifting bringing me in the materials but I did all the leveling and placed all the pavers.

I know what you mean about never having worked with brick or rock. I felt the same way. But really it was pretty darn easy. You just get that 4ft level and off you go. The only thing that would hold me back form the interlocking block wall is the weight of the blocks. They are heavy. On our last house we contracted out a really big wall project. No way could I handle the weight of the blocks and my husband no way has the temperment to be that fussy and level.

The one real good tip we got from our current neighbor when laying the brick pavers in sand, is to take a plank and lay the plank across several of the briks and pound with a wood mallet. It kind of levels them all next to each other.

If you have the boy muscles to lift those heavy blocks I really would try it. Between the manufactures website and the iternet and your friends here on TBN you could get enough instructios on how to do it. 12 ft long is a real nice, first time, learn something new, sized project.

 

[Taxidermist]

I am building retaining walls for my walkout basement. I am using keystone block they weigh 78# ea and are 18"l 8"h 11"d they pin together. Water is the #1 reason walls fail so with good back fill and drains a block wall will last forever. I spent the extra money and plan to only do it once.

Rob

 

[Willy Victor]

Randy I never built a floor in a stone Borie before, using brick pavers but my husband and I did it! He did all the heavy lifting bringing me in the materials but I did all the leveling and placed all the pavers.

I know what you mean about never having worked with brick or rock. I felt the same way. But really it was pretty darn easy. You just get that 4ft level and off you go. The only thing that would hold me back form the interlocking block wall is the weight of the blocks. They are heavy. On our last house we contracted out a really big wall project. No way could I handle the weight of the blocks and my husband no way has the temperment to be that fussy and level.

The one real good tip we got from our current neighbor when laying the brick pavers in sand, is to take a plank and lay the plank across several of the briks and pound with a wood mallet. It kind of levels them all next to each other.

If you have the boy muscles to lift those heavy blocks I really would try it. Between the manufactures website and the iternet and your friends here on TBN you could get enough instructios on how to do it. 12 ft long is a real nice, first time, learn something new, sized project.

Bon Jour Rox

Dan

 

[rox]

Bon Jour Dan!

 

[Redneck_Randy]

Well, I saved my pennies and went with Versa-Lok retaining wall system. The blocks lock together with pins making the entire wall one piece so to say. Here are a few pics of the start of the project. I will post more when the project is finished.

 

[EddieWalker]

Glad to see you went with the block. It's gonna really look nice when you get it done, and the best thing is that it will never rot out on you!!!!

Thanks for the update and don't forget to post more pics as you progress and especially the finished shots.

Thanks,
Eddie