Wood splitter motor

[some zilch]

my homemade splitter currently has a 12hp b&s vert shaft engine, and i will be soon replacing it with a 13hp kohler command vert shaft. its a good way to reuse vert shaft engines, b/c they arent good for much else.

 

[franklin2]

easier for wife to start she likes to split wood

Where do you find one of those?

 

[skyhook]

Where do you find one of those?

The forest is full of em.

 

[bigdeano]

It has an oil filter on the kohler and all it will do is sit and idle the pump does it all

I'm sure you know even though the engine is a lot bigger it will still have to turn the same rpm as the 5 hp engine. Maybe you can belt drive the pump and run the engine slower. Maybe that's what you meant anyway.

 

[mikefromnh]

Just wanting to make sure you didnt have the mis-conception that you would be getting more splitting power or speed.

At the very least he could adjust the pump so it stays in high flow until a higher psi to take advantage of the extra HP. Most 2 stage pumps have an adjustment range of ~400-900 psi (before it goes into low flow/high pressure)

Assuming he has an 11gpm 2 stage pump 14 hp could easily move 11gpm at 900 psi. It most likely is set close to 400psi with a 5 hp engine.

900 psi is probably enough to split most pieces without going into low flow (assuming he doesn't use a 4 way)


I've been thinking about how to modify the adjustment range on a 2 stage pump so I could pair it with a 13hp Chonda. My goal would be 11gpm at 1750 psi so that even with a 4 way it usually won't go to low flow...

 

[Texasmark]

I went to Northern Tool for the 16 gpm pump, adapter bracket to a V belt pulley, and the Lovejoy connectors. I had a 15 hp lawnmower with a shot deck and since my Fords were low on gpm and slow, I decided to build my own; besides it gave me something to do. The pump requires 8 hp to run the 16 gpm at 2000+ psi. The engine just loafs.

There are pictures of it on here in the archives. Built it sometime last fall. Since the pump was driven off the sheave mounted to the engine shaft via a rigid mounted sheave as the power receiver with V belt drive, I had to mount the pump with the shaft up (to get the pump to rotate in the required direction) which forced it to mount below the frame rather than on top. Made for some ground clearance complications I had to overcome. Vertical mounting was no problem with respect to pumping ability.

In terms of performance it is 6 seconds out and 7 back on a 4" x 24 stroke cylinder. Things have to be considered like return hose size and overall hose length to get that kind of cycle time. WWW is full of info on answering questions you will have. You need a controller (OC bidirectional valve) obviously and a reservoir with an inlet filter to it preferred. I put QDs on my controller so that I could disconnect the cylinder which assisted in the ease with which the rig moved.

Mine rolls around easily even though I had to abandon the idea of making it self propelled. I did put 2" x 22 I think, solid tires on it for ground clearance but that made it really easy to push around and since they were much thinner I could get much closer to the mower for things like pushing it. The pump hookup got in the way of where the propelling v belt would run. I learned that these little pumps can't tolerate any lateral pressure so you have to essentially contain everything and all the pump sees is radial pressure via the Lovejoy couplings required to disconnect the pump from mounting stresses associated with supplying drive power. NT had all that including the valve (special log splitter application) and very reasonable considering.

On comparing to store bought, comparing functional apples to apples (gpm, speed, pressure) I'm pretty close in expense to the low end splitters but I can outperform them hands down and I like my setup better. Additionally, I did it, it gave me something to do, it gave my retired mind a workout which it needed, and the old mower was just sitting around collecting dust and on and on. I certainly would do it again.

HTH,
Mark