Woodoworking question... (GaryM??...anyone?)

[Richard]

Looking to figure out dimensions.

We're installing 2 columns for the wifey.

With the column, base and capitals we are left with 9" of empty space /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif (as measured from floor to ceiling)

(can you say she didn't plan any of this? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif)

None the less... we're looking to make a floor base now, to set the column atop.

Here is where more of my ignorance is clearly visible. She wants to make an octagon base that will be approximately 15 1/2 to 15 3/4 inches across. (where it will fit just under the 16" (outside diameter) circular base of the column)

What is best size to use, 1x6? 1x8?

I presume I’ll miter all the edges at 60 degrees?

I’ve got access to an (old) Craftsman radial arm saw, given this isn’t furniture craftsmanship by me, would this type of saw be capable of this kind of cutting?

TIA for any thoughts/answers

Richard

 

[shvl73]

you say you have 9" of space to fill? I'm assuming the 1x will be on edge. 1x10 should measure 9-1/4" actual, so you can rip it to 9". Table saw would be best but a radial arm saw will do. assuming an 8 sided octagon as stated wouldn't each cut be 22-1/2 degrees to make a 45 assembled?

 

[RobS]

Richard, it sounds like you want to run the grain vertically as well as the "slats" of the octagon? The corners will be vertical and 9" high, right? If so, the horizontal edge will be D X tan 22 1/2. For D = 16" (across the flats of the octagon, not the points) it will be 6.6 inches on the outside with 22 1/2 degree bevels on each edge. It's a lot easier to draw than explain /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[bebster]

Richard, I agree with the replies above, but recommend you draw this one to scale on a large piece of paper. You'll feel more comfortable that way, and it will help you think through these issues. You might even consider making an octagonal piece of 1/2" plywood for the bottom, and then fasten the finish outside pieces to it (so it becomes an inside base). You might consider biscuit joining the 22.5 degeree miter vertical edges to keep them aligned. Or make a 9" high strip of 2x2 wood and angle one edge to have a 22.5 degree angle, and glue it to the inside corner of a miter. Then you can face nail the 9" pieces to it. To make sure you're a true octogon, and it doesn't skew on you, you can measure opposite corners and they should all be equal distance. Is this an exterior piece? If so there are some other issues to consider.

 

[Egon]

Re: Woodoworking question... (GaryM??...anyone?) *DELETED*

Post deleted by Egon

 

[Richard]

Ok..first off

"oops" /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

She want's a HEXagon, not an OCTagon or (if my thinker is thinning right) a SIX sided base, not an eight sided base. My humble apologies for that...

Now, to

Shyl73, You presume correct in that, the grain/edge on this base will be vertical.

RobS, you got the understanding also, other than my faux pax of Oct/Hex (agons).

Bebster, I’d probably use the inside reinforcement as you suggested and simply add some trim to outside edge to help hide my miter. (Trust me…it will be a bit irregular)

Egon… there IS a mistake here, and it’s mine. No need to delete anything for my ignorance.

Not that I have that (hopefully) cleared up,

To reiterate the basic plan:

We’re looking to make a HEXagon shaped base (six sided), roughly 9” high, vertical grain. We need the outside corners to be roughly 15 ½” to 15 3/4” apart. We have some fudge factor, so anywhere in the range is probably acceptable. (especially if it allows using a STANDARD piece of wood, verses having to rip to width). Oh, and the wifey clarified to me that we won’t make sixty degree miters, we need to divide that by two and make them thirty degrees. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Seems I'm suffering a stupidity attack today.

Thanks

Richard

 

[shvl73]

Bebster's suggestion of a base is an excellent one. It will allow you to draw it out until it is just right, cut it out & it will be a great reinforcement for the whole piece.

 

[Egon]

To fit a hexagonal into a 16 inch circle I got a board 7.8 inches with bevels at 22.5 or 67.5 depending on how it's measured.

The Radial arm saw will do just fine. Use inrip and set at 22.5 degrees. Do both sides of a long board and then cut it into the proper lengths. This would be the easiest and safest. There are other ways to set up but invovle ripping shorter boards with the cross cut action. Eats fingers.

Egon

 

[Richard]

I'm printing out your diagram and VERY MUCH appreciate everyone's help and input here...especially Hex-EGONS!

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Ok..so it was cheesy but I had to try.

 

[Richard]

Egon.. I'm curious, on your diagram, did you mean to divide 360/8, or because it's a hexagon, should it now be 360/6 (=60, divided by 2 = 30 degree miters?)

If so, does that change any of the other equations?..

/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif