Woods M5

/ Woods M5 #1  

Anonymous Poster

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I am about to replace the blades on my 1970's Woods M5 cutter. I have the kit from Woods and am about to proceed. Aparently on the Woods mowers, there are easy to do. Does anybody have any tips?
 
/ Woods M5 #2  
Wear gloves and get some PB Blaster (the TBN guys pointed me to this stuff). I bought some and it works extremely well on loosening rusty old nuts.
 
/ Woods M5 #3  
Mowerfixer,
Great mower. I have had one for about three years and don’t think that I’ll ever trade. Raise up the back. Put jack stands under for safety. Remove top inspection cover. Turn blades to line up a blade bolt. Use ratchet and 5/8” socket to remove bolt. Knock pin out. Then reverse sequence.
 
/ Woods M5
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks...it sounds too easy, compared to what others seem to be saying on the board about changing blades...I'll try it this weekend and let you know what happens. Thanks much!
 
/ Woods M5 #5  
Mowerfixer,
It is easy. The Woods blade system is second to none. I can change my blades in about ten minutes.
 
/ Woods M5 #6  
Where can I buy this PB Blaster I hear so much about?

Eugene
 
/ Woods M5 #7  
buppy69,

I picked up my last can of PB Blaster at the local Schucks. I'm sure most if not all big auto parts stores will have it. The stuff is about 100 times better than WD40 for loosening these nuts & bolts.
 
/ Woods M5
  • Thread Starter
#9  
OK, so this afternoon, I got the bolts off and the "shim" plate things off...but the large "pins" that hold the blades on will not come loose. Tried hammering them down, but no luck. Any ideas...I'd guess these things have been on for 30+ years
 
/ Woods M5 #10  
Never had that problem with a Wood's cutter. You really can't get a hammer to them. Let the PB Blaster soak for while then hold a short section of 1/2" or 3/4" pipe or rod in the center of the pin to hit. That way you won't burr the end of the pin.
 
/ Woods M5
  • Thread Starter
#11  
OK...I'll give it a try. I'll try to get the PB Blaster today...probably will not get to the baldes til next weekend. Thanks for all of the help.
 
/ Woods M5 #12  
NAPA (if you have them) has it, too. The difference between WD40 and PB is that WD40 is a lubricant and PB is a solvent.
 
/ Woods M5
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Picked up the PB Blaster at Checker Auto this afternoon...sprayed a couple of times. 98 degrees here in Minnesota so I'll try to get to them in a day or so...to hot to work in the barn.
 
/ Woods M5 #14  
My M5 is probably in the same, or worse condition. One time, I had to take the whole bar off to get better access and really be able to pound on the pins. The other time, I put a jack under the bar so I'm pounding on something solid and not just causing the whole deck to bounce. When you start to lift the whole deck, you know you've got something solid to pound down on. Now I really grease the pins up before putting them back so next time the job is much easier. Good luck.
 
/ Woods M5
  • Thread Starter
#15  
The first blade change on my Woods M60-4 was a real challenge. I don't think the previous owner ever changed them so it had been some time since they had been off. I ended up using a heavy duty "C" clamp, a large socket and lots of heat. Took two days. Hopefully your efforts won't be as involved. Now the pins are greased at least 2-3 times a season and blade changes take about 5 minutes.

Russ
 

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