Woods reverse rotation tillers --

[Unregistered2013]

I am looking at starting a garden this spring, and a reverse rotation tiller from Woods is the same price as the forward rotation tiller.

I am looking at a GTR-52.

Anyone have any experience with reverse rotating tillers here?

I have a small tiller and it is MUCH more effective in reverse than going forward.

Also, this picture is hard to argue -- !!

eric

 

[jbrumberg]

eric and his rtv:

I originally responded to a post by blueberryman, but the response to him may be of benefit to you:

Welcome to TBN ! I live in the rocky NE with rocky, heavy, clay based soil. I use/used my tillers to break virgin sod as well as create and maintain garden areas. I have only owned forward rotation tillers (Woods T42, CCM M-160), but I put some "thought" into the CCM purchase as it related to forward vs. reverse rotation tillers:

Foward Rotation- bounce you forward over immovable objects , throw rocks away from tiller, "push" you forward through heavy material, "works" in tractor's direction.

Reverse Rotation- pulverizes soil finer, mixes soil better, would probably work much better in established gardens.
I will add: works against tractor.

I "theorized" that the Reverse Rotation tillers would tend to jamb on bigger rocks as they tend to be thrown up and forward causing the rocks to jam up in the tiller housing and would not bounce (but jam) when "interacting" with immovable objects.

Out of curiousity I would love to hear others' feedback on this question as I have no real experience with Reverse Rotation tillers.

The responding posts kind of supported my "theorizing" to some degree.

Jay
__________________

 

[nate_m]

Hi Eric,
There was a discussion about this a couple weeks back.
Try this thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/114510-6-tiller.html

Also, I was looking at the Woods tillers a few months back. My dealer quoted me about $1000 more for the reverse tillers.

Either someones getting a good deal or someones getting ripped off. Not sure...

 

[darkviper]

I have used it both ways on a tractor. If you are in clean soil meaning little or no rocks then they are great. if you have rock with a tractor then bad idea. You have a lot more power behind them then say a small walk behind. In the case of what i was using it was about a 55 Horse power tractor. When it hung a rock it was a total pain to get out sometimes and they would hit you. Bad experence on that one. also you will work the tractor harder on a CCWR instead of a CWR in hard ground. The ride is a little smother but it standes a better chance of thing breaking to when the rocks lock it up with that much torque. Just my 2 cents worth

 

[bigtiller]

I have used a 50 inch reverse tine tiller with a 24 hp jd2305 for two years. There only down fall is rocks and horse power. Baseball size and smaller get buried so you can not find them to throw out of the garden. Softball and larger will roll along in front of the tiller or they may wedge them selves in the tines. I have very few gardens that have any rocks so it is not a big deal to me.

Then there is horse power. It takes every thing the 24 hp diesel has. In an established garden these truly are the "one pass tiller" they are advertised but they will not save you any time. Because they need so much power your speed is reduced. I could make two passes with a forward tine tiller in the same amount of time as one pass with a reverse tine tiller.

The thing I like best about them is they don't push the tractor. This makes it easy to get close to a house or fence for a flower garden and not have to worry about being pushed into anything.

 

[jbrumberg]

Sometimes getting pushed is not so bad like when someone who I will not mention tills too early in the season, in too wet a heavy clay based soil, and needs the "extra push " "to paddlewheel" out of the bog he created . With my old Ford I could take it out of gear, engage the PTO, and work the tiller while stationary. With my HST I just engage the the PTO; the tiller is not pushing anything . Jay

 

[john_bud]

Jay and I have a lot in common. We both use tillers as early season propulsion units when crossing soft ground! (Works good --- once. Don't even think about going back or blub blub blub).

A KK gear drive forward rotation tiller in 60" width is $1100 - 1300. If you are able to get a reverse rotation tiller (and have the HP to use it) for about the same $, then go for it. They do a better job in rock free soils.

jb

 

[ronjhall]

Here is drawing showing how a reverse tine tiller works.

My Kubota reverse tine tiller works very well. But like other have said, larger rocks can jam the tines. A slip clutch is a necessity. My tiller does not require much power to run. But does require 4WD.
Here is a picture of a lawn I did using the tiller.

 

[jbrumberg]

ronjhall:

Nice action shot ! Thanks for your observation about the bigger rocks and the suggestion for a slip clutch. With my soil I definitely need a slip clutch . Jay

 

[jbrumberg]

Jay and I have a lot in common. We both use tillers as early season propulsion units when crossing soft ground! (Works good --- once. Don't even think about going back or blub blub blub).

A KK gear drive forward rotation tiller in 60" width is $1100 - 1300. If you are able to get a reverse rotation tiller (and have the HP to use it) for about the same $, then go for it. They do a better job in rock free soils.

jb

Forward rotation tillers do make for a fine paddlewheel action. I unfortunately went back to the "bog" and sank my little old ford . I had a very steep "learning curve" experience :roll eyes:, but I can honestly say it is a mistake that I have not repeated.

The KKII gear driven tillers came out after I purchased my CCM. They apppear to be much better built than a lot of their other products.

Jay