BXRICK
Silver Member
As a new tractor owner this summer, I knew work lights were going to happen. I ended up doing a combination of what I've read on this forum. The factory lights of course don't shine backwards, and when using the FEL, are almost useless. Both are necessary for snow removal in my situation.
The 2 lights - one backwards and one forwards - are mounted to a 15" piece of 2" angle iron painted grey to match (more or less) the ROPS. This "light bar" is then mounted to the top of the ROPS using two hose clamps through slots cut in the angle iron. I put a piece of 1/4" rubber between the angle iron and the ROPS in an attempt to reduce vibration. This all seems to be more or less what several others here have done. I also mounted the cheapest self-contained small strobe light I could find to the angle iron. When clearing snow, I spend some time in the road, so this seemed like a good idea.
I did wire them a little differently from what I've seen others here do, however. I used thee-conductor trailer wire. I bought a trailer connector set (~$15), that included the 4-prong flat connectors. I used the short piece (the piece meant to go on the truck) on the lightbar. The longer piece I ran down the ROPS, and then followed the factory wiring harness under the tractor and under the dash. All the wiring is inside black split loom, so it looks original. The connector is up on the light bar. This makes it possible to remove the light bar by simply unplugging it, either for repair or replacement.
I debated long and hard on the switch situtation. I finally decided to use the factory switches. I tapped into the headlight switch, which triggers a relay, which then sends power back to the lights. I did the same thing with the strobe light driven off the hazard light switch. The relays are mounted under the dash, with all the other fuse-type stuff. The switched power comes direcly from the battery, with a fuse in between.
The trailer wiring has three conductors and a ground. I used one conductor each for a backup and forward light. The two lights are driven off the same relay, but this gives me the option of changing that later. The third conductor has the strobe light on it.
After taking some measurements, the standard alternator can handle the load except at idle. I may remove the factory headlights, since they tend to reflect back off the FEL supports.
Sorry no pictures yet - need to get hold of a camera.
The 2 lights - one backwards and one forwards - are mounted to a 15" piece of 2" angle iron painted grey to match (more or less) the ROPS. This "light bar" is then mounted to the top of the ROPS using two hose clamps through slots cut in the angle iron. I put a piece of 1/4" rubber between the angle iron and the ROPS in an attempt to reduce vibration. This all seems to be more or less what several others here have done. I also mounted the cheapest self-contained small strobe light I could find to the angle iron. When clearing snow, I spend some time in the road, so this seemed like a good idea.
I did wire them a little differently from what I've seen others here do, however. I used thee-conductor trailer wire. I bought a trailer connector set (~$15), that included the 4-prong flat connectors. I used the short piece (the piece meant to go on the truck) on the lightbar. The longer piece I ran down the ROPS, and then followed the factory wiring harness under the tractor and under the dash. All the wiring is inside black split loom, so it looks original. The connector is up on the light bar. This makes it possible to remove the light bar by simply unplugging it, either for repair or replacement.
I debated long and hard on the switch situtation. I finally decided to use the factory switches. I tapped into the headlight switch, which triggers a relay, which then sends power back to the lights. I did the same thing with the strobe light driven off the hazard light switch. The relays are mounted under the dash, with all the other fuse-type stuff. The switched power comes direcly from the battery, with a fuse in between.
The trailer wiring has three conductors and a ground. I used one conductor each for a backup and forward light. The two lights are driven off the same relay, but this gives me the option of changing that later. The third conductor has the strobe light on it.
After taking some measurements, the standard alternator can handle the load except at idle. I may remove the factory headlights, since they tend to reflect back off the FEL supports.
Sorry no pictures yet - need to get hold of a camera.
