workout for 4110

[MGnnr24]

posted this on in the main forum, thought I'd better share directly with the fellow Mahindra owners.

I gave my Mahindra 4110 quite a workout Saturday afternoon.
I had some land I wanted to clear in order to make a food plot a little larger. Man a tractor makes things so much easier. I went out and cut off the brush (mostly pretty small stuff) with the chain saw then it was workout time. Put the loader down and went at it. Had my brush piled and the ground cleaned up in no time. That's what I call pilin brush, I barely broke a sweat. It so much better when I think I'm playing not working. I was having a pretty good time on it and I decided to see what it would do, I pushed out some smaller cedar trees the biggest was maybe as big around as a softball, most were smaller around then a soda can, it sure was fun. It didn't just snap em off, it took the roots outta the ground, granted the ground is finally thawin out here in mid-MO so I mighta had an unfair advantage, but the little 4110 is a power house, I've definitely been pleasantly surprised, it's done everything I've thrown at it, and most of it with ease.

 

[KENB]

Well, I'm glad it is working out good for you. I tried that type of clearing with my 4110, and slightly bent my bucket already. Bowed it just slightly out in the middle. Darn Yopaun bushes.

 

[RanchMan]

Congrats - but watch out too.

I wouldn't recommend trying to push out mesquite with a bucket - regardless of tractor brand. Unless perhaps it has tracks and the name Caterpillar on the side, but a blade works better for that anyway... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Charlie_in_TX]

Them yopaun are about are about the toughest thing I have cleared. Have you found anything that works? I was thinking of getting a ripper (I don't know what it's called but looks like a scarifing tooth on a box blade) and rippen the roots out one. So far I have cut with a chainsaw then backfilled so I can mow over them.

Yopaun are almost as bug a scurg as Chinese Tallow. Hate them too.

 

[RanchMan]

If I understand you right, you were talking about a subsoiler.

Quick advise - don't do it.

I made the mistake of using (or trying to) on mesquite. It is now scrap. (See the attached pic). A 4110 has the hp to absoultely mangle things like this. (Notice that steel is bent backwards and it's dimensions are ~5"x~2"!!)

Seriously, if you have roots stumps to get up, get a dozer. Much more efficient and easier on the equipment too. You can rent them for reasonable prices with or without an operator. (They're not hard to operate, but they are a lot of fun! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif )

 

[Charlie_in_TX]

Subsoiler, that is what I was talking about.

I have a 2615. I don't think it has the power to bend like that. But that also means it might not bust the roots.

I have rented a dozer before (a JD450LGP). The rental place said it is about the size of Case 550. I had it for a week digging a pond and leveling out the dirt. I think it was $1200. It didn't impress me with it's(my) ability to push over trees. I only tryed on one so I didn't develop a technique to get them down.

Most of the areas were the brush is cut I will be backfilling. If the saw leaves the stump a couple inches hi it is all good.

 

[RanchMan]

It can take a surprising amount of effort to pull a subsoiler just thorugh the dirt if things are dry, so adding a root to the mix and you are likely to run out of HP long before the root has moved at all. If you are intent on trying it, make sure things are nice and wet down below as it will substantially reduce the effort and strain on the equipment. (This goes for dozers too).

Size matters when it comes to dozing, but even a JD450/Case 550 should be able to push over a lot of wood - 'course it depends on the size of the tree (no, I wouldn't say it is appropriate for a 20 dia. oak. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif )

A small dozer is more time consuming that a larger one obviously, but it can be done. I've used a 550 to clear a number of acres of solid mesquite off my place, although I've also used as big as a D7 (NICE! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif)

Technique is definitely required and a 6 way blade certainly helps. If you don't want to go the DIY route, an experienced operator can make even a small dozer work much better than a CUT for tree/root removal.

 

[jwcinpk]

Guy's those subsoilers aren't very strong. i've broken them with the old jubilee. I'm interested in the loader on the 4110 and how it lifts. I thought in a couple years I'd like to have a 4110 with the fel and a backhoe, but the loader would have to be able to lift 5x4 rolls of hay in the summer. What do you think?
On the dozer, it's all in the operator. Most use the corner of the blade to dig the roots up a little before trying to push them over.

 

[Charlie_in_TX]

Ok, subsoiler is out.

I believe the 4110 with FEL is a powerful combo. I would think it would make quick work of a bail of hay. I think a bail weighs about 1000#. If the loader can handle 2000#, which I think it can, it should muscle it around effortlessly.

When I had the dozer it was to build a lake on already cleared land. I didn't have the time to mess with technique development for trees/brush. These yopaun are thick brush not trees. They vary from maybe 2" to 6" and 10' tall. The problem is 20 of them may be in a clump 2' in diameter. Gives the effect of a much larger tree to something like a dozer but not too bad for a chainsaw. The clumps also grow fairly close together. I had a tough time cutting out a 4' wide trail for 4wheelers. You can only get a dozer to one side. The good new is I am only going to clear about 1 acre more.

 

[RanchMan]

<font color="blue">You can only get a dozer to one side. </font> Hmmm. Interesting.

I don't have any experience with those trees of yours, but I have had small groups of trees packed together in tight areas (i.e. low maneuverability) and understand where you're coming from.

The method that jwcinpk mentioned (using the corner to cut the roots and then pushing the tree over) has worked for me, but I've also done just the opposite and had success (i.e. pushing the tops to get them "out of the way" and then removing the stump/roots with the corner of the blade.

I generally gather the topgrowth first/go after roots later route when maneuverability is an issue. (like you mention) Just get the upper stuff out of the way first, then do the digging. By going that route, you should be able to corner-dig all the various roots up and not be hindered.

Something to remember is that you will have to smooth everything over with the dozer after you got those roots up, otherwise it will look like you are working the set of a war movie with all the fox-holes you've created. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

'Course, no two clearing efforts work out exactly the same, but I suspect with a little practice you'll find a technique that makes pretty quick work of 'em.