wushaw
Elite Member
I don't think the pump section where fluid transfer takes place will withstand diesel fuel for a very long period but you can give it a whirl and let us know what the longevity is when or if it does go south.
WOULD THIS WORK ?
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LBrown59
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 1*I don't think the pump section where fluid transfer takes place will withstand diesel fuel for a very long period. )</font>
1* That's the beauty of my idea no fluid transfer in on or around the pump.
Since the pump isn't exposed to the fuel it's not necessary for it to withstand it.
1* That's the beauty of my idea no fluid transfer in on or around the pump.
Since the pump isn't exposed to the fuel it's not necessary for it to withstand it.
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LBrown59
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<font color="blue"> <<
LB, I think we're all assuming you'll be "connecting" your fuel tank/pump to your tractor with a hose to refill. I think we're also questioning the notion of a potentially harmful/dangerous fuel tank being connected to our expensive tractors. <font color="red"> *** </font> Perhaps we've misunderstood your intention with your fuel tank/pump arrangement. Our apologies if that is the case >>
</font>
Most pumps move liquid by means of impellers in contact with the liquid.
Some examples of such pumps are sump pumps, vehicle water pumps and fuel pumps, septic tank pumps even your windshield washer pump & water well pumps both deep well and submersible.
The impeller may be submerged directly into the liquid (Sump Pump) or the liquid is drawn through hose / piping in the the liquid into the pumps impellers .( water well deep well pump)
Another way of moving liquid is push it with air.
The RV pump I'm speaking of is this type of pump an altogether different breed than the kind of pumps listed above.
Moving it with air removes all the concerns that have been expressed about the pump in this thread.
Liquid can be moved physically by impellers or it can be pushed by air.
Well water plumbed to a house is moved by a combination of both.
The pump (Impellers) transfers the water from the well into the storage tank. The tank carries a certain amount of air pressure. This air pressure-not the pump (pushes) the water through the water lines and out the faucet.
<font color="red"> *** </font>
Hopefully this helps make my intention a little clearer.
Perhaps I didn't express myself clearly enough resulting in any misunderstanding.
LB, I think we're all assuming you'll be "connecting" your fuel tank/pump to your tractor with a hose to refill. I think we're also questioning the notion of a potentially harmful/dangerous fuel tank being connected to our expensive tractors. <font color="red"> *** </font> Perhaps we've misunderstood your intention with your fuel tank/pump arrangement. Our apologies if that is the case >>
</font>
Most pumps move liquid by means of impellers in contact with the liquid.
Some examples of such pumps are sump pumps, vehicle water pumps and fuel pumps, septic tank pumps even your windshield washer pump & water well pumps both deep well and submersible.
The impeller may be submerged directly into the liquid (Sump Pump) or the liquid is drawn through hose / piping in the the liquid into the pumps impellers .( water well deep well pump)
Another way of moving liquid is push it with air.
The RV pump I'm speaking of is this type of pump an altogether different breed than the kind of pumps listed above.
Moving it with air removes all the concerns that have been expressed about the pump in this thread.
Liquid can be moved physically by impellers or it can be pushed by air.
Well water plumbed to a house is moved by a combination of both.
The pump (Impellers) transfers the water from the well into the storage tank. The tank carries a certain amount of air pressure. This air pressure-not the pump (pushes) the water through the water lines and out the faucet.
<font color="red"> *** </font>
Hopefully this helps make my intention a little clearer.
Perhaps I didn't express myself clearly enough resulting in any misunderstanding.
Egon
Epic Contributor
Using air to move liquids will require a system capable of being pressurized.
More than one person has been injured or killed when using air pressure to empty a common barrel.
Egon
More than one person has been injured or killed when using air pressure to empty a common barrel.
Egon
Bird
Rest in Peace
I'm not sure I understand all this thread. I first thought it was about using an RV type pump like the Shurflo, which is a demand pump; i.e., the liquid flows through the pump and the pump cuts off when the outlet pressure reaches a certain level, usually 40 to 60 psi (although they make some for higher pressures) and comes on again when a faucet is opened to let the pressure out.
But now we're talking about air pressure pushing the fuel. A travel trailer I bought in '72 and a motorhome I bought in '73 had that arrangement. There was a 12 volt air compressor mounted to the floor with a 1/4" copper line running from the compressor or air pump into the top of the water tank. Those air pumps also had pressure switches. If I remember right, they came on at 20 psi and turned off at 40 psi. And the water tanks were cylindrical galvanized steel tanks. In the '60s and early '70s, that was a common RV water system. I didn't keep either of those RVs long enough to have a problem, but it was common for the tanks to rust out, and I don't know of any RVs using that system anymore. Everything I'm aware of went to plastic tanks to avoid rust and because the square shape allowed a larger water capacity in the same sized storage compartments, and of course, went to demand water pumps.
But now we're talking about air pressure pushing the fuel. A travel trailer I bought in '72 and a motorhome I bought in '73 had that arrangement. There was a 12 volt air compressor mounted to the floor with a 1/4" copper line running from the compressor or air pump into the top of the water tank. Those air pumps also had pressure switches. If I remember right, they came on at 20 psi and turned off at 40 psi. And the water tanks were cylindrical galvanized steel tanks. In the '60s and early '70s, that was a common RV water system. I didn't keep either of those RVs long enough to have a problem, but it was common for the tanks to rust out, and I don't know of any RVs using that system anymore. Everything I'm aware of went to plastic tanks to avoid rust and because the square shape allowed a larger water capacity in the same sized storage compartments, and of course, went to demand water pumps.
wushaw
Elite Member
So your talking about a pressurized pump system like Bird said in the older RVs that hasn't been around since about 1974.
Then your wanting to pressurize the fuel tank to a few psi to transfer fuel??
Then your wanting to pressurize the fuel tank to a few psi to transfer fuel??
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LBrown59
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( So your talking about a pressurized pump system like Bird said in the older RVs that hasn't been around since about 1974.
Then your wanting to pressurize the fuel tank to a few psi to transfer fuel?? )</font>
=============
Yep that's about the size of it.
I need to find that type pump and the right tank to go with it.
Then your wanting to pressurize the fuel tank to a few psi to transfer fuel?? )</font>
=============
Yep that's about the size of it.
I need to find that type pump and the right tank to go with it.
OP
LBrown59
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
But now we're talking about air pressure pushing the fuel.
A travel trailer I bought in '72 and a motorhome I bought in '73 had that arrangement. There was a 12 volt air compressor mounted to the floor with a 1/4" copper line running from the compressor or air pump into the top of the water tank. Those air pumps also had pressure switches. If I remember right, they came on at 20 psi and turned off at 40 psi.
the water tanks were cylindrical galvanized steel tanks. In the '60s and early '70s, that was a common RV water system.
it was common for the tanks to rust out, and I don't know of any RVs using that system anymore. )</font>
That's the same system I had in a new slide in truck camper back in 1968.
galvanized leaves that out for a Diesel fuel tank .
But now we're talking about air pressure pushing the fuel.
A travel trailer I bought in '72 and a motorhome I bought in '73 had that arrangement. There was a 12 volt air compressor mounted to the floor with a 1/4" copper line running from the compressor or air pump into the top of the water tank. Those air pumps also had pressure switches. If I remember right, they came on at 20 psi and turned off at 40 psi.
the water tanks were cylindrical galvanized steel tanks. In the '60s and early '70s, that was a common RV water system.
it was common for the tanks to rust out, and I don't know of any RVs using that system anymore. )</font>
That's the same system I had in a new slide in truck camper back in 1968.
galvanized leaves that out for a Diesel fuel tank .
pat32rf
Veteran Member
You should have a problem getting the tank filled at the pumps unless it has the proper markings for diesel on it. Whatever tank you find will have to be cylindrical in shape to withstand even 5-10psi and a plastic that will withstand diesel. The plastic might be the easy part if you do the research. You could make an addapter to replace that little plastic disk that seals a regular 5gal gas jug. Make it out of steel or copper and braze two copper tubes in it, one, a dip tube, long enough to reach the tank bottom( or extend it with fuel rated hose) The other just a stub used to inject a few lbs of air. You can watch the tank swell up as you do it, just like a tank of gas on a sunny day....Run a line from the dip tube outlet to your tractor tank and fasten it there somehow. Will work better if the gas can is elevated but 1 psi should pump the fuel up about 3ft. Obviously the bigger the hose the faster the flow on the outlet side. Air inlet could be 1/8 or 1/4 copper tube size, just DON'T hook it up to a 30psi air hose. If you can set the can up on a shelf, once it starts flowing you could just let it siphon until its MT. (my JD will take a full 5gal can once its down to the 1/4 mark). Think I'll hit TSC tomorrow and pick up some 3/8 fuel line....... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
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LBrown59
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<font color="blue"> Whatever tank you find will have to be cylindrical in shape to withstand even 5-10psi . </font>
<font color="#666666"> TSC has a 15 gallon plastic tank rated at 35 PSI.
but I don't know if it will stand diesel fuel </font>
<font color="#666666"> TSC has a 15 gallon plastic tank rated at 35 PSI.
but I don't know if it will stand diesel fuel </font>
