Yanmar 135 Help

   / Yanmar 135 Help #1  

Fireman550

New member
Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
15
Location
Georgia
Tractor
yanmar 1700D, Yanmar 135, Ford 851, Bad Boy Mower
I recently purchased a YM135 for my wife to run about on the farm. It was used to pull boats from storage the past 12 years and runs great. It needs to be painted and the shifter for the transmission has a lot of play. You can spin the shifter 360 degrees but all of the gears work. Is there a bushing that needs to be replaced? Can someone please take some detailed pictures of how the hood attaches to the front grill area. It looks like someone tried to weld it at one time? I want to paint it and give it to her for her birthday. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am located in georgia if any one nas a 135 locally to look at as well. Thanks again. I will post pictures of my project soon.
 
   / Yanmar 135 Help #2  
Was that the one that was for sale in Florida?
 
   / Yanmar 135 Help #3  
Here's a diagram of the shifter on a larger Yanmar.

Yanmar Tractor Parts: SHIFT_LEVERS

Yours should be about the same. Part #4 in that diagram is a Metric rollpin that prevents the shift lever from revolving. I had to replace mine when it broke, and found a US, undersize one there. Replaced it with Metric and all is well.

Look around on Hoye's site (referenced above) for typical hood diagrams.
 
   / Yanmar 135 Help
  • Thread Starter
#4  
This one was forsale in Georgia for $600 dollars. The owner said he got 50 calls in 10 minutes so he removed it from Craig's List.

By the way thanks for your help the roll pin was the problem with the shifter. The tractor runs great and will be painted soon by a friend of mine that owns a body shop. I will post a few pictures as soon as I can. Is it worth the expense to convert the fuse panel to the newer plastic fuses? Has anyone ever come up with led headlight bulbs for this unit? Thanks again for your help!
 
   / Yanmar 135 Help #5  
I jumpered glass fuses in their individual fuseholders across the three fuse positions so I could replace fuses easier.
Photo.
I've never blown a fuse so this was sufficient for me. I've never looked under there since.

Spread a tarp on the floor! It is impossible to remove the microscopic fuse screws without dropping them or the washers that are behind each. I can't imagine how a farmer is expected to replace the original fuses on a dirt surface, grass, rice paddy etc.

A new fuse panel with modern blade fuses is the right way to update these.

If your headlights are the same as mine (see my avatar) I think they are unique to Yanmar plus some snowmobiles. I don't see a point in converting to LED, unless you need to use the alternator's capacity to drive snowplow lights or something. The existing headlights are adequate.

$600!!!!!! You did good! I'm not surprised he got 50 calls immediately.
 
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   / Yanmar 135 Help #6  
Congrats on a great deal! I saw the ad and noticed that it went fast...no surprise there.
You will enjoy these tractors. Great forum and these guys are very good at helping people fix their tractors problems.

Welcome to the board.
 
   / Yanmar 135 Help
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I ordered some parts from hoye Tractor this morning to fix a few things before the tractor gets painted. I noticed a small amount of fluid leaking from left rear axel on the shop floor. I ordered a new seal and looked at the parts diagram on the internet. How does the rear axel slide out to remove the seal? Is the seal the only part that should be replaced if the bearings are ok? I want to fix this this weekend before it gets painted. Thanks Again for you help!
 
   / Yanmar 135 Help #8  
Part #56 is the seal collar but when you click on it you will find it is now incorporated into the seal. I believe you could pry out the old seal and install the new seal without pulling the axle. This is just my opinion based on what I see on the drawing. No facts.
 
   / Yanmar 135 Help #9  
Has anyone ever come up with led headlight bulbs for this unit?

I wanted to have both forward and rear-facing lights on the existing headlight circuit, so I bought some of these 12v LEDs (they were sold as "Buyer's" rather than "TruckStar" when I bought them). In front, I bolted a couple pieces of 1/8" flat bar to the existing headlight mounts, and attached the lights to that. Then I mounted one in place of each of the turn signals in back. At about 1 amp each, the four combined lights draw about the same current as the two original 25w headlights used to, and they're brighter.

They do give a bit of a googly-eyes look to my 1510, though.
 

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