Yanmar 1602D starting issues

project_X · Jan 30, 2011

I don't generally use my tractor during the winter months, but the fellow who cleans my driveway is missing in action.

I went to start my tractor yesterday, and after cycling the thermostart, it turned over but didn't quite start. I stopped cranking it for a couple of minutes and when I went to re-crank the engine, nothing happened. The dash lights went off. Since the battery was older, I decided to charge it for the evening and the same thing happened this morning.

Next step, I replaced the battery and tried again. Same thing.
I check the power at the solenoid with the key turned to crank and there was no voltage (bad key switch?). I did have dash lights and a thermostart light.

I then tried to by pass the key switch, and saftey switchs by momentarily powering the solenoid (it clicked, but no start and everything now appears dead.

I assume I have must have burnt the fusible link? I don't know what to try now or where to start.

Battery is good, connections to battery and solenoid are good.

Please advise.

Regards,
Rob

winston1 · Jan 30, 2011

I would double check all battery, starter, connections, and especially where the ground wire goes to the frame. You have classic symtoms of a bad connection.

Craig Clayton · Jan 30, 2011

Is the battery any good that you swapped around? In the original post you stated
( I went to start my tractor yesterday, and after cycling the thermostart, it turned over but didn't quite start.) That is a good sign that the electrical was intact at the first testing. You need to have the engine on a block heater, or lower rad hose or a big 300 watt heat lamp. Charge the good battery. I think you have introduced a bad connection to the follow up of the first weak turn over As stated by winston1.
Craig Clayton

project_X · Jan 30, 2011

The 2nd Battery is brand new. I think I am going to replace both battery cables as they are a pain to do anything with when the FEL is on (can't open the hood all the way), then I'll be 100% sure they are good.

Does anybody know where the fusible link should be located?

normde2001 · Jan 30, 2011

Forget the fusible link, it's in the starter switch circuit which you bi-passed. Go back to bipassing everything but the starter. Hook jumper cables directly to the starter and see if it starts. Does your volt/ohm meter tell you that all of these connections are good? You said the sol clicked but would not start. It can't start unless the starter turns, did it?

project_X · Jan 30, 2011

normde2001 said:
Forget the fusible link, it's in the starter switch circuit which you bi-passed. Go back to bipassing everything but the starter. Hook jumper cables directly to the starter and see if it starts. Does your volt/ohm meter tell you that all of these connections are good? You said the sol clicked but would not start. It can't start unless the starter turns, did it?

When I tried to trip the solenoid with a jumper, it clicked but the starter did no spin. After doing this everything went dead.
To clarify:
I suspect the original battery was fine.
I was not getting a voltage from the key to the solenoid, but I did have power elsewhere.
I then tried powering the solenoid directly, the solenoid engaged but the the starter didn't spin and now I don't seem to have power anywhere.

I have pulled the starter and will bench test it to make sure there is no issue. I will then work through the battery cables to make sure they are all fine. And then check the ignition switch and clutch switch.

Anything else to check?

silvertramp · Jan 30, 2011

I had a similar problem recently. I went to start it. Didn't crank it long enough.. turned the key again... nothin'.. no click even. The cables looked iffy. If original, they're 24 years old. They can corrode under the insulation. I installed new cables, ground the frame where the ground connects, & used a longer bolt. Done. It may well've been a bad ground, however, it was time for cables anyhow. I'd start by taking the ground off & cleaning the cable end & frame.

normde2001 · Jan 30, 2011

Sounds as if you have multiple problems. If the sol clicks, but starter does not turn, bad sol or starter, assuming, as you say, good battery (BTW exactly how many volts are in your battery?). If you eliminate the starter and connections, bypass the clutch safety switch.

284 International · Jan 30, 2011

Before pulling off the starter, I'd suggest doing the battery cables. At the least, pull them all off, then thoroughly clean the connections on the battery and tractor ends. It is the easier fix, and is more likely the problem anyway.

You've already pulled the starter, so testing is only wise, but do the battery cables and their connections. I know you said they're good, but unless you have a way to put a serious load on the cables, you can't really verify that. The fact that the solenoid clicked with a jumper wire means there wasn't enough power getting to the starter. The fusible link to the solenoid shouldn't affect the large cables. I would expect your issue to be in the battery cables or their connections, based on what you've said.

Does the 1602 have a PTO safety switch? The first tractor I encountered with one of those drove me nuts before I figured it out.

Others have given the same and good advice, I think. Make sure to let us know how it turns out!