/ Yanmar 1610 Tractor- (Resealing Cylinders) My search for parts, dealing with repair shops, and other aggravations along the way!
#1
pokemahoney
New member
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2018
- Messages
- 4
- Tractor
- Yanmar 1610
Just wanted to share some of my aggravation with local hydraulic shops and their approach to rebuilding hydraulic cylinders for my Yanmar 1610 Tractor. I was a hydraulic mechanic for 21 years with the U.S. Navy (Civilian). I rebuilt hoist cylinders for Mast and Antenna Repair on Submarines. I worked on periscopes, radar, sonar gear, and just about anything that went round and round or up and down. I retired 11 years ago. I bought this 1610 Yanmar Tractor around that time, and it has been a learning experience unlike working on submarines. When I worked for the Navy they had schematic, tech manuals, blueprints, parts lists, so I didn't have to hunt too far a wide for anything.
I ran this tractor hard, and I guess it's time to rebuild cylinders, or "Reseal" them as the hydraulic shops say.
Initially my left Lift cylinder was leaking oil, so I pulled it off the tractor and took it to a hydraulics shop about 5 years back. They "resealed" it for a little over $100.00, which seemed reasonable at the time. I put it back on the tractor and was disappointed to find out it was still "pissing" oil past the wiper seal. I lived with it because I didn't want to remove it and take it back to the hydraulic shop. It wouldn't leak all the time; just when it got closed to being fully closed, then it would drip or drain like crazy past the wiper ring. I finally decided to remove the same lift cylinder again and took it to a hydraulic shop that a neighbor recommended. The other shop went out of business. I was aghast when the shop my neighbor recommended told me it would cost me over $300 to have the same cylinder resealed. I chocked it up to "inflation", and reluctantly left it. I had been searching for schematics, parts lists, anything that would help me reseal them myself, but could not find anything! I asked the shop to have it done in 3 days if possible, so I would plan to pick it up on Friday. I dropped it off on a Tuesday. I went back on Thursday, and they had the cylinder disassembled and had the "software" ready to go. I looked at the cylinder, and saw how basic it was, so I decided to take the parts and rebuild it myself. It didn't look like to me that "my cylinder" was a priority and according to the bookkeeper, I already had $150 in labor, parts and tax into it. For some reason I thought tractors would be more complex than submarine cylinders! The wiper ring they left in the cylinder was mangled by the first shop that resealed it. I guess that was the "craftsmanship" at the last shop. I replaced the opposing seals on the piston with the software they provided and I had purchased. The piston seals are UHS 40-50-6 u-cups. That's 40 mm I.D., 50 mm O.D. and 6 mm thickness. The brand name that was in it was Kastas, but I found a company on Ebay named 22newcentury that sold (2 ea.) 4-50-6 polyurethane u-cups in a package for $6.52. Nitrile or Polyurethane is what is available in my overall searches. The only down side is 22newcentury is based out of China, so allow 3 weeks for shipping if you're lucky! I reused the old End Cap gland interior u-cup which was a 30-40-7. I could not see anything wrong with the original interior u-cup, so the piston seals must have been leaking by and getting past the mangled wiper ring which was installed haphazardly by the last repair shop.
The newer hydraulic shop supplied me with a replacement which was a Kastas 30-40-7. I reinstalled the Lift cylinder back on the tractor and had no leaks. I guess my training paid off!
Next, with my new found confidence, I decided to fix the dropping bucket problem. From what I've read, it's either a spool in the control valve not porting the hydraulic fluid correctly due to a "faulty' o'ring, or the cylinder's need to be "resealed" because hydraulic fluid is getting by in the raise or lower cycle. Since I had just found out where to get inexpensive u-cups. I opted to rebuild both of the "curl" cylinders. The piston U-Cups for the "Curl" cylinders are 30-4--6. 22newcentury is supplying those for $7.87 for a package of (5 ea). The interior u-cup in the End Cap Gland was harder to find. They are UHS 25-33-5. Again 22newcentury had those at a $20.02 for (3 ea.) u-cups. So I spent $31.90 to acquire 10 polyurethane u-cups which will allow me to rebuild or "reseal" the other lift cylinder and the 2 bucket "curl' cylinders. Since I reused the old interior gland u-cup, I will use the one supplied by the new shop for that side. I figure I am saving almost $1,000 doing the work myself. To replace o'rings I purchase a box from Harbor Freight with over 380 in the box for under $10. I was looking last night at prices on some of the U.S. Hydraulic websites and the cheapest comparable boxes to what Harbor Freight sells is $120.00! I also picked up an electronic dial caliper while I was at Harbor Freight for less than $20. I am not worried about replacing wiper rings which essentially hold back no pressure, but keep dirt from entering the cylinder. The first shop had a hard time pushing the rod past that wiper without mangling it. I had the same issue, so if it's not mangled, why replace it! There are 2 external o'rings on the end gland. I bought the "SAE" box of o'rings from Harbor Freight and used one of them on the left Lift Cylinder. I found out this is all "metric" after the fact. I'll purchase "Metric" next chance I get. It's less than $10 at Harbor Freight! The hydraulic repair shops don't remove the teflon wipers on the interior of the gland. You can see the white piece in the bottom of the gland with an angle cut in it. Clean it up with some 409, then coat with hydraulic fluid before reassembly.
Not wanting to wait 3 weeks to have the "software" to reseal the curl cylinders, I opted to find some u-cups here in the U.S. I found a company out of Pennsylvania that will ship me 4 Piston U-cups, 30-40-6, for these cylinders at $4.18 each or $16.72 for 4 EA. The internal u-cups, 25-33-5, are $5.94 ea. or $11.88 for 2 Ea. With $5.00 shipping at First Class Snail Mail I paid $33.60 total. I should have these parts delivered to me within 1 week while I'm waiting on the "spare" parts to be delivered from China.
The last part of this puzzle is the Front End Loader control valve. The closest diagram and parts list I could find on this Yanmar 1610 tractor is from a similar valve sold by German-Bliss Equipment company out of Illinois. The valve is from a Bush Hog 2547. The diagram looks similar, and gives me some idea of how this thing works internally, but it's not thorough enough. I also emailed Bailey Hydraulics and sent them pictures of the valve with BM40/2F on a label, but they are stumped as well.
It hasn't been easy getting information, technical documentation or parts for this old tractor much less decent repair! The last "expert" that worked on it had it for 2 months. He basically, checked the timing, replaced one injector, called Hoye Tractor out of Texas to get compressions stats and told me that the tractor didn't have enough compression to fire. I asked him, as I paid him $500 for doing next to nothing, did you check the Injector Pump? UHH, No. I took the top off the injector pump and there was dirty diesel fuel still lingering. I cleaned it out the best I could, and started up the tractor. I decided to spend a little extra in the future, and go with highway diesel to avoid this problem of dirty fuel in the future. Other than the hoist cylinders needing maintenance, I'm still getting more miles out of the tractor! It runs like a top now!
Well, just wanted to share some insight into my history with this old tractor in hopes that somebody else won't have to go through the same aggravation, nightmare and expense. It really is worth "Doing it Yourself!"
I ran this tractor hard, and I guess it's time to rebuild cylinders, or "Reseal" them as the hydraulic shops say.
Initially my left Lift cylinder was leaking oil, so I pulled it off the tractor and took it to a hydraulics shop about 5 years back. They "resealed" it for a little over $100.00, which seemed reasonable at the time. I put it back on the tractor and was disappointed to find out it was still "pissing" oil past the wiper seal. I lived with it because I didn't want to remove it and take it back to the hydraulic shop. It wouldn't leak all the time; just when it got closed to being fully closed, then it would drip or drain like crazy past the wiper ring. I finally decided to remove the same lift cylinder again and took it to a hydraulic shop that a neighbor recommended. The other shop went out of business. I was aghast when the shop my neighbor recommended told me it would cost me over $300 to have the same cylinder resealed. I chocked it up to "inflation", and reluctantly left it. I had been searching for schematics, parts lists, anything that would help me reseal them myself, but could not find anything! I asked the shop to have it done in 3 days if possible, so I would plan to pick it up on Friday. I dropped it off on a Tuesday. I went back on Thursday, and they had the cylinder disassembled and had the "software" ready to go. I looked at the cylinder, and saw how basic it was, so I decided to take the parts and rebuild it myself. It didn't look like to me that "my cylinder" was a priority and according to the bookkeeper, I already had $150 in labor, parts and tax into it. For some reason I thought tractors would be more complex than submarine cylinders! The wiper ring they left in the cylinder was mangled by the first shop that resealed it. I guess that was the "craftsmanship" at the last shop. I replaced the opposing seals on the piston with the software they provided and I had purchased. The piston seals are UHS 40-50-6 u-cups. That's 40 mm I.D., 50 mm O.D. and 6 mm thickness. The brand name that was in it was Kastas, but I found a company on Ebay named 22newcentury that sold (2 ea.) 4-50-6 polyurethane u-cups in a package for $6.52. Nitrile or Polyurethane is what is available in my overall searches. The only down side is 22newcentury is based out of China, so allow 3 weeks for shipping if you're lucky! I reused the old End Cap gland interior u-cup which was a 30-40-7. I could not see anything wrong with the original interior u-cup, so the piston seals must have been leaking by and getting past the mangled wiper ring which was installed haphazardly by the last repair shop.
The newer hydraulic shop supplied me with a replacement which was a Kastas 30-40-7. I reinstalled the Lift cylinder back on the tractor and had no leaks. I guess my training paid off!
Next, with my new found confidence, I decided to fix the dropping bucket problem. From what I've read, it's either a spool in the control valve not porting the hydraulic fluid correctly due to a "faulty' o'ring, or the cylinder's need to be "resealed" because hydraulic fluid is getting by in the raise or lower cycle. Since I had just found out where to get inexpensive u-cups. I opted to rebuild both of the "curl" cylinders. The piston U-Cups for the "Curl" cylinders are 30-4--6. 22newcentury is supplying those for $7.87 for a package of (5 ea). The interior u-cup in the End Cap Gland was harder to find. They are UHS 25-33-5. Again 22newcentury had those at a $20.02 for (3 ea.) u-cups. So I spent $31.90 to acquire 10 polyurethane u-cups which will allow me to rebuild or "reseal" the other lift cylinder and the 2 bucket "curl' cylinders. Since I reused the old interior gland u-cup, I will use the one supplied by the new shop for that side. I figure I am saving almost $1,000 doing the work myself. To replace o'rings I purchase a box from Harbor Freight with over 380 in the box for under $10. I was looking last night at prices on some of the U.S. Hydraulic websites and the cheapest comparable boxes to what Harbor Freight sells is $120.00! I also picked up an electronic dial caliper while I was at Harbor Freight for less than $20. I am not worried about replacing wiper rings which essentially hold back no pressure, but keep dirt from entering the cylinder. The first shop had a hard time pushing the rod past that wiper without mangling it. I had the same issue, so if it's not mangled, why replace it! There are 2 external o'rings on the end gland. I bought the "SAE" box of o'rings from Harbor Freight and used one of them on the left Lift Cylinder. I found out this is all "metric" after the fact. I'll purchase "Metric" next chance I get. It's less than $10 at Harbor Freight! The hydraulic repair shops don't remove the teflon wipers on the interior of the gland. You can see the white piece in the bottom of the gland with an angle cut in it. Clean it up with some 409, then coat with hydraulic fluid before reassembly.
Not wanting to wait 3 weeks to have the "software" to reseal the curl cylinders, I opted to find some u-cups here in the U.S. I found a company out of Pennsylvania that will ship me 4 Piston U-cups, 30-40-6, for these cylinders at $4.18 each or $16.72 for 4 EA. The internal u-cups, 25-33-5, are $5.94 ea. or $11.88 for 2 Ea. With $5.00 shipping at First Class Snail Mail I paid $33.60 total. I should have these parts delivered to me within 1 week while I'm waiting on the "spare" parts to be delivered from China.
The last part of this puzzle is the Front End Loader control valve. The closest diagram and parts list I could find on this Yanmar 1610 tractor is from a similar valve sold by German-Bliss Equipment company out of Illinois. The valve is from a Bush Hog 2547. The diagram looks similar, and gives me some idea of how this thing works internally, but it's not thorough enough. I also emailed Bailey Hydraulics and sent them pictures of the valve with BM40/2F on a label, but they are stumped as well.
It hasn't been easy getting information, technical documentation or parts for this old tractor much less decent repair! The last "expert" that worked on it had it for 2 months. He basically, checked the timing, replaced one injector, called Hoye Tractor out of Texas to get compressions stats and told me that the tractor didn't have enough compression to fire. I asked him, as I paid him $500 for doing next to nothing, did you check the Injector Pump? UHH, No. I took the top off the injector pump and there was dirty diesel fuel still lingering. I cleaned it out the best I could, and started up the tractor. I decided to spend a little extra in the future, and go with highway diesel to avoid this problem of dirty fuel in the future. Other than the hoist cylinders needing maintenance, I'm still getting more miles out of the tractor! It runs like a top now!
Well, just wanted to share some insight into my history with this old tractor in hopes that somebody else won't have to go through the same aggravation, nightmare and expense. It really is worth "Doing it Yourself!"
Attachments
Last edited:
