Yanmar 1700D adding rear remotes

[Tractorsaw1]

Ok guys, i have read around some, & have a little knowledge on this, but still a little fuzzy. This tractor does not have a loader on it. I would like to add rear remotes on it to run my log splitter. I'm not concerned about the speed, this will free up my ford 6610 from running the splitter. Does anyone have a picture of the valve, what needs to go where, & what fittings I need for this install? Any links to the fittings online would be great, have a hard time finding things locally, Thanks Again.

 

[winston1]

This can get complicated. Here is one way of doing it. Note the note about power beyond. Remote hydraulic install on a Yanmar Using these fittings. Yanmar Tractor Parts: Compression Fitting - For Hydraulic Line Here are some possible valves. wood splitter valves from Northern Tool + Equipment You would need hoses whatever length required to mount the valve at your desired location. Along with quick disconnects and hoses for your splitter.

 

[Tractorsaw1]

I have one of those valves mounted on the splitter. I guess you either buy the $22 fitting or cut the line either way without a loader mounted?

 

[winston1]

I have one of those valves mounted on the splitter. I guess you either buy the $22 fitting or cut the line either way without a loader mounted?

Pretty much. Just make sure you never block the discharge flow from your pump. Your system has to allow flow at all times. You will be buying a new pump if not.

 

[Tractorsaw1]

so theres no need to locate the i & o fittings on the block under the seat & get a special plug to put in 1 of them? The hoyte tractor drawing almost confuses me. Its like the valve is hard lined on the tractor & the remotes are between the valve & the cylinder. My setup has the remote lines between the tractor & the valve. Sorry for being such a dummy.

 

[winston1]

The Hoye drawing is showing the hard tubing discharge line from the tractor pump being cut and a compression fitting put on the cut ends. A hydraulic hose would then be put on the pump discharge side of the cut line and run to whatever location you want your valve at and hook it into the inlet of the control valve. A hydraulic line would then leave the discharge of the control valve and go back to the other end of the cut tubing line. Your tractor is then plumbed to crank and run and allow the fluid to constantly circulate. The work ports on the valve would then be plumbed to the splitter or whatever hydraulic implement you might have. Normally they would have quick disconnects on them at the valve. I apologize for my poor explanation. I'm not good with words. I know how it works, just not how to explain it.

No need to mess with anything under the seat.

 

[Tractorsaw1]

Your probably doing a great job of explaining, I'm just doing a bad job of understanding. I guess I'm confused by the remote outlets won't always have something pluged into them making a complete circuit. Or is the problem I still need to buy another valve even though I have one mounted on the splitter? Could I just make a jumper line to plug the outlets together when the valve is not between them allowing constant flow?

 

[winston1]

Yes, you can make a jumper line. I ran my 2002d that way several years. The danger is if one of your quick connects comes loose your pump will dead head and self destruct. Not a likely happening but just want to make sure you understand that part of it.

 

[Tractorsaw1]

I guess you could also plumb in an h type bypass with a valve in the middle? Plug in to the remotes & flip the valve one way, unplug them & flip it the other? That would at least omit needing the jumper if its built in sorta? I will try & get some photos tomorrow of the machine before I do anything. Thanks again!

 

[kenmac]

Just make sure the valve you are using will flow fluid back to the pump when not in use (in the neutral position) (open center valve ) like in this pic http://www.hoyetractor.com/indeximages/remote-neutral.jpg As Winston said,,,, You don't want to dead head your pump