Yard needs new grass

   / Yard needs new grass #1  

nickmech

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2007
Messages
33
Location
Whatcom County, Wa.
The plan: take out weed infested, uneven, rutted worthless front lawn. What would be the best method? Do I need to kill the grass first or can I till it with tractor, cover with top soil, level and replant? How much top soil should I cover with? It will be aprox. 100' by 80' . Concerned about using roundup because of wife's little dogs but I will have to keep them off after seeding anyway. Any advice surely appreciated. Thanks.
 
   / Yard needs new grass #2  
Killing the grass first can take multiple tillings before it's almost done. Make a drag also and pull that around to help make a nice smooth finished surface that will be an easy ride when mowing.:D
 
   / Yard needs new grass #3  
Done my yard (90x120) about five years ago well worth the time and effort.
Planted from seed, be sure to have a soil sample done to get the correct ph for
the type of grass you're having put in.
 
   / Yard needs new grass #4  
The plan: take out weed infested, uneven, rutted worthless front lawn. What would be the best method? Do I need to kill the grass first or can I till it with tractor, cover with top soil, level and replant? How much top soil should I cover with? It will be aprox. 100' by 80' . Concerned about using roundup because of wife's little dogs but I will have to keep them off after seeding anyway. Any advice surely appreciated. Thanks.

The problem with rototilling an existing lawn is you will be burying live root clumps of grass, which will not easily decompose. To avoid using chemicals, here is what I, a retired landscaper would do. Number 1. Do not bring in top soil. It is usually full of weed seeds you may or may not already have. 2. Your main objective is to create a deep 7- 10 inch seed bed. 3. To create the seed bed, you need lots of organic matter, and good drainage. The secret to a good lawn, is a good deep root system. 4. Rather than buying topsoil, I do the following:

Rototill just deep enough, 2-3 inches to loosen root systems of existing grasses. If you have a rake for your 3 point, use it to remove the grass clumps. Incorporate as much organic material as you can afford. Incorporate decomposed granite to loosen the soil, thereby adding valuable minerals, and creating aeration, and drainage. When doing the final grading, and seed bed prep, you can't beat a landscape rake. I spread the seed, rake it in while grading and raking, I then reseed, and fertilize.

The ideal time to do this is in very late summer, to early fall. If you do it now, you will be watering tons of weed seeds. Better to wait until the hot months are passed. You can do it now, the sooner the better - you'll just have to deal with more frequent watering and the grasses will have a tough time competing against the broadleaf weeds.
 
   / Yard needs new grass #5  
You've been given good advice, I would just add that actually, there are a couple of "applications" that you can put down to eliminate weeds before planting. Don't remember them right off, but they are out there.
That said, like AchingBack said, do it in the fall, and you'll be happier.
Spray it with roundup middle of August, wait a week, till it up, level, and plant.
Get a soil test done so you can see what's needed to make it better, etc. etc.
 
   / Yard needs new grass
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks for the tip of waiting untill late summer. Makes sense and I have too many other projects going anyway. Don't have a rake yet but looking for a used one. So don't till very deep, rake out clumps, add organic material, till and smooth level and seed? Got it.
 

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