Yet ANOTHER no-start problem--and this is bizarre.

jrinck · Feb 9, 2006

Today, my wife was using our TC29DA, and out of the blue the darn thing just shut off and would NOT restart. Turning the key did NOTHING. Even the flashers wouldn't turn on. It was as if the battery was dead.

So I come home, and in the dark, remove the battery terminals and clean them as best as I can. BOOM, it starts. This happened about two months ago so I knew to try this.

I turned the tractor off, however, and tried to immediately restart it. NOTHING. No power. Once again, even the hazard lights wouldn't work. I removed the GND cable from the battery and put it back on. BOOM, it started!

So I took it up to the garage and let it run for a while. I turned it off and on a few times with no problems. Just as I was about to celebrate my victory, I turned the tractor off and decided to check the oil and all that. After that, I went to start it again, and NOTHING! Again, no power, not even to the flashers.

So I once AGAIN fiddled with the gnd connection on the battery, and it fired up!

I know I have that darn thing clean AND tight, so this is a mystery.

And it gets weirder...

I did a few starts/stops with the hood up. I put the hood DOWN and tried to restart. NOTHING. I opened the hood, it started. Close it again. NOTHING.

So I carefully closed the hood, and it started right up. This probably doesn't mean anything, or maybe it does. If it does, what could it possibly be?

Anyway, when the thing goes dead, it's DEAD to the point where even the flashers don't turn on. But when it's working, it cranks right up!

Color me blue AND confused!

ALL thoughts are appreciated and encouraged!

Thanks!

jbrumberg · Feb 9, 2006

I have not yet had this problem with my TC29DA, but it appears that there is a bad connection at the GND at the battery post/ground clamp connection. Try cleaning, tightening the connection up, and spread some vasoline on it. I am not an electrician or mechanic but this has worked on other types of vehicles I have owned in the past with similar intermittent electrical losses.

DocHeb · Feb 9, 2006

Re: Yet ANOTHER no-start problem--and this is bizarre. *DELETED*

Post deleted by DocHeb

Egon · Feb 9, 2006

Check out the battery ground cable and the connection for the cable to the frame.

Egon

HGM · Feb 9, 2006

I'd inspect the ignitionn switch and check the voltage drop on the battery cables when the problem is present. Could be a cable, though not as likely as a connection or switch..

DieselMonk · Feb 9, 2006

I am with Egon. Sounds like the bad connection is either on the other end of the GND were it meets the frame or were the negative strap (cable) meets the clamp. It also could be the positive side on the battery. Inspect and clean everything and try again. A multi meter shows you the truth quickly. Have also a look on the positive terminal, take that apart and clean it. I had 2 occations were the positive terminal was the problem and not the GND. Good luck and post the results.

Max

PineRidge · Feb 9, 2006

I'm with Eagon if the cables are not making good contact on the ends opposite the battery any movement of the battery cables might cause the intermittent problem. Check all the cable connections to be sure they are tight. Before you start take the negative terminal off the battery so you don't accidentally cause a short while tightening everything else down. The don't forget to hook the negative cable back up last.

jinman · Feb 9, 2006

As Egon suggested, it sure sounds like a bad ground cable. If you have a voltmeter (VOM), it could be used to isolate your problem. The problem is probably not your battery terminal being dirty because you cleaned it, but it could be one of the following:

1. Internal battery terminal broken (a very dangerous condition because of internal arcing)

2. Terminal to cable is loose or corroded. This is where the copper wire connectes to the lead terminal lug. Even though it's tight, it could still be internally corroded out of sight.

3. Terminal to frame connection loose or dirty as Egon suggested.

4. All of these things need to be checked on the positive cable also.

Because everything on your tractor is dead, I don't think it has anything to do with the ignition or safety circuits. I think you are very near to your problem because even the jolt of closing the hood can make the connection open or close.

To use a meter. Wait until the problem happens, then hold the positive lead to the physical positive battery terminal and the negative lead to the the center of the ground battery terminal. If you have 12 volts, then move the postitive terminal to the cable terminal to verify that connection. Next, use something sharp like a needle to poke a hole through the cable's insulation and check that the cable is conducting power. Continue to the point that the cable hooks to the frame and check both the lug and the frame itself. My guess is that by this time you will have found your problem, but if not, reverse the process and check the postive side the same way.

Bad/dirty terminals are notorious for being intermittently good/bad. You could just replace cables, but most likely you can find and fix the problem without going to that extreme.

Good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Soundguy · Feb 9, 2006

I'm with the others.

I'll add, that if your battery cables are clamp together 2-piece jobs.. check the cradle where the wire lays... if there is corosion into the wire.. replace it.

Also check for a broken post on the battery.

Next time it doesn't start.. get the test lamp or vom out and chase the volts.

Could also be the hood rubbing on a wire harness going back to the dash.. might have a loose wire / connector that gets jiggled when you remove that battery clamp to clean it again.

Ditto on chassie grease or vasolene.. good terminal coating.. I've been doing it for years.

Soundguy

dqdave1 · Feb 9, 2006

When it happens again; very gently touch a volt meter to the positive and negative posts to see if you get 12 volts. Could be very likely you have a bad battery post. Probably negative side. If you have voltage at posts and it is still dead check for 12 volts at positive post and negative cable at the FRAME connection. Check for 12 volts at end of negative cable and also by touching only a frame connection ( make sure it is bare for good reading) If you have 12 volts there then check for 12 volts at negative post and positive cable at STARTER connection. If 12 volts there check main fuse connection at starter (black fuse holder) clean it if needed. If you still have not found problem; move to start switch. Probably not there since flashers do not work. Be carefull not to move anything while doing tests since it is intermediate problem. Good luck ! If possible replace battery with a spare if available. Remove both the positve and negative cables and check resistance on them. If they both read the same and the reading is low; cables are ok. If one reads higher than the other replace it.