YM1500 3 Point Question

WashingtonApple · Apr 19, 2004

I recently purchased a used YanMar YM1500, and this is really the only compact tractor I'v ever used, its always been Case 580K backhoes and such at work. So pardon me if I sound a little dense with this question. Everything seems to work on the tractor, except the 3 point "arms"?, I move the lever to raise and lower the 3 point, and it raises, but it doesnt lower, I looked at the linkage for this lever, and it pushed a little valve in the raise position, and releases the valve when it reaches the nuetral position, however it doesnt do anything apparently when you push it all the way into the lower position. So I am wondering if there is something broken, or missing on this tractor, or am I just not doing it properly? or does the implements weight pull these arms down when its attached? I havent gotten any attachments yet so I havent been able to test that possibility.

Thanks for any help anyone can offer.

Andy

Tractors4u · Apr 19, 2004

The weight of the lift arms themselves should bring the 3 point down. In front and below the seat there is a knob. Make sure that knob is open all the way, counter clock wise. If you stand on the ends of the lift arms will they lower?

HoyeTractor · Apr 19, 2004

Andy,
We actually had a 1500 in our shop with that same problem last month. The customer brought in the tractor with the arms completely up and it had a 5' brush mower hanging on it. We found it to be that the rockshaft was bent and when it raised all the way up, the shaft bound to the housing and would not go down. You can eliminate the hyd ststem by removing the lockout valve just under the seat. If it covers you in oil and the arms go down, it is a hydraulic problem. If not- it is a mechanical problem.

Aaron
parts@hoyetractor.com
940 438-0386

jbitting · Apr 19, 2004

before you take anything apart... don't overlook the downspeed adjustment under the seat... not the knob in under the front of the seat.. that is a valve for both up and down... this one controls how fast your lift arms go down (depending on load)... it looks more like a little shaft with a roll-pin shoved in it at a 90 degree angle.. I believe pointing the "roll-pin" toward the front is for fast down (open) and toward the rear slows its fall (or may stop it).

so check the "knob" under the front of the seat first...
then the little lever under the middle of the seat next...

Jake

WashingtonApple · Apr 21, 2004

Thank you folks for the answers, it was the little knob with the roll pin, works great now. I was getting a little irate with something as important as the 3 point lift not working, especially with only 67.5 hours on it! Also ran it out of diesel while experimenting with the 3 point lift, omg I swear I will never do that again, learned my lesson the hard way, took forever to prime the injectors, bleeding air off here and there.

Andy

Tractors4u · Apr 21, 2004

That 67 hours is probably 1067. Sorry but I thought you should know. You are lucky to have a Yanmar because the system is actually very easy to bleed if you run out of fuel. You don't even have to bleed at the injectors. I have attached a picture. Do you see the screw head on the fitting with the fuel line running from it? It is just above the injector lines. It has a phillips head slot in it. Open it slightly and you will have fuel with bubbles coming out. When there are no more bubbles, close it and try starting it. Sometimes it is easier with 2 people. One cranking and one tightening. I don't recommend using a phillips screwdriver, use a 10mm wrench instead.

Happy Tractoring!

WashingtonApple · Apr 21, 2004

Thanks for the tip Brent, I did bleed it at the injectors, and if I am ever stupid enough to run it out of fuel again I'll use that technique you suggested.
As for the hours I am not sure, paint is mint aside from minor scratching, everything on it basically looks new, tires, starter, alternator, battery, wiring, etc etc. I cant find any actual signs of real wear. So I went CSI on it and looked for evidence of a cover up job, I believe the tires are original because they do have quite a bit of age cracks in them, although hardly any wear on the tread. On the paint I cant find a single overpainted chip, you know like the indentation or edge of a previous chip in the old paint that was painted over. None of the decals and stickers have a even a drop of paint on them. No oil leaks at all either. So I really am not sure, but as long as she runs strong I am happy /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

http://www.stokesauction.com/photogallery/barn/Dsc00064.jpg

Tractors4u · Apr 21, 2004

( So I really am not sure, but as long as she runs strong I am happy )

 That is all that matters. When the tractors are shipped from Japan the tires and wheels are removed so your tractor doesn't have the original tires and wheels on it. It does however look to be repainted. The chassis color is not quite the same color as the original but the biggest give away is the decals. YM1500's don't have decals on the hood. On an original 1500 what appears as a decal is actually a very thin piece of aluminum with the letters and numbers printed on it and the sheet of aluminum is pop rivoted to the hood. And the design of the original letters and numbers is different than the decal. Raise your hood and look on the inside of the hood behind the decal and see if you notice any small holes. They maybe filled with paint. Are there any silver decals on the fenders with Japanese writing on them? There should be. Regardless, you have a nice looking tractor. If you ever need anything, feel free to ask. Attached is a picture of a 1500 I had.

WashingtonApple · Apr 21, 2004

Yeah I guess that makes sense about the decals, mine are in english, I must have been having a brain fart. I did check for the holes and they were there, as were the hood emblems stickers instead of aluminum. I was really hopeing that the hours were actually 67.5 so was probably ignoring obvious things like english decals /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Anyway thats a nice looking 1500 you had, I am looking around for a bucket for mine. A local guy builds them for 1500's and other models, and charges $1500 installed, does that sound like a good price for a new loader? They are fairly basic square stock construction, not nearly as slick looking as yours, smallish bucket (I may be biased there as I am used to much larger buckets) and new valves, hoses, and rams from northern tool. He also makes similarly constructed backhoe attachments for $3000 installed.
I am obviously pretty new to compact tractors so any advice is appreciated.

Heres a pic of one of the loaders on a 1500.
Ebay Completed Auction

Andy

rbeitz · Apr 21, 2004

(
Anyway thats a nice looking 1500 you had, I am looking around for a bucket for mine. A local guy builds them for 1500's and other models, and charges $1500 installed, does that sound like a good price for a new loader? They are fairly basic square stock construction, not nearly as slick looking as yours, smallish bucket (I may be biased there as I am used to much larger buckets) and new valves, hoses, and rams from northern tool. He also makes similarly constructed backhoe attachments for $3000 installed.

Heres a pic of one of the loaders on a 1500.
Ebay Completed Auction

Andy )

Sounds and looks like one of Buck's loaders. Also sounds like his backhoe. Not sure if that is his auction or not though. Be sure to check him out here:

EFC

Buck is great to work with and he'll treat you right.