YM1500 Rebuild, Question about injectors

[Torx]

Hello,
I have the motor on my YM1500 torn down to the sleeves an am doing a full rebuild to include pistons, rings, rods, rod bearings, head;valve cover;oil pan gaskets and shims for the injector pump.

Since I have everything apart, except the injectors themselves, should I clean the injectors from the inside/head side?

Since I don't have an injector puller and didn't want to risk destroying the injectors, I left them mounted the way they existed for probably the tractors whole life.

Does anyone know if I should spray the engine side of the injectors with a injector and carburetor type cleaner?

Should I gently hit them with an air hose?

Should I try both air and a spray type injector cleaner?

Maybe a few shots with WD-40? (Would this also aid me in pulling the injectors if the damaged piston and the out of tolerance ring replacement doesn't improve its ability to build enough compression to start?)

Or just em alone and replace the pistons, rings, rods and rod bearings and hope for the best?

I appreciate any input about the fuel injector cleaning in case one or both are gunked up. I don't want to rent an injector puller unless necessary.
The previous owner had vandals remove the fuel cap, and he emptied the fuel tank and never got it started again. Several people worked on it and he replaced the injector pump which didn't help. The starter was shot so I had it rebuilt and jump starting from my high idling YM226 didn't help. I've replaced fuel lines, fuel bowl and filter and still wont hit a lick. I'm fairly certain that the problem is the damaged piston and rings losing compression. I hope the injectors aren't rusted or stopped up.
Thank you,
Torx

 

[clemsonfor]

you can soak them in transmission fluid. that will work better than wd40 for penetrating. Also it disolves some carbon and soot. But i think you will still need to get a puller to get them out? there not just going to pull out by hand there pressed in there.

 

[HoyeTractor]

Since I have everything apart, except the injectors themselves, should I clean the injectors from the inside/head side?

You can't see the injector from the head side. You are seeing the pre-combustion chambers sticking out the bottom side of the head. The injector nozzles are about 3/4" up in there. I don't think you will do any good unless you remove them.

Edit: I guess you could flip the head over and pour something down into the chambers to soak??

 

[Torx]

Thanks for the ideas and information.
Since the previous owner had water and debris in the fuel tank, and the tractor never started after sitting, I thought it might be a good idea to at least run some type of cleaner through the head side of injectors before putting everything back together.
I will do as recommended here, and pour some cleaner down into the injectors in hopes that it might dislodge even a tiny blockage in the injectors.
I know that several people tried to get this tractor started using starter fluid. There were a couple of empty cans sitting on and around the tractor when I went to look at buying it. The pistons looked pretty bad and the rings looked dark and disfigured.
I saw some photos of bad pistons in a previous post and I will never use starter fluid on my tractors after seeing those pictures and looking at my pistons.
One fellow suggested putting a gasoline soaked rag into the intake!!!
My thoughts on this idea left me thinking about the cold start igniter in the intake mixing with a gasoline soaked
rag, would be a very large fire taking place, so no fuel soaked rags are banished along with the use of starter fluid.
So, I'll replace the pistons, rings, rods, rod bearings and hopefully she will start right up. If not, I'll break down and get an injector puller and may replace them with new injectors.
I'm amazed at how tough these Yanmar tractors are. I recently sold a YM1500 and have a YM226 that started easily after a cold winter but in my garage.
The headlights, idiot lights and blinkers still work. This 35-40 year old tractor may have earned a spot in my heated 2 car garage.

 

[normde2001]

All of that fuel related parts replacement and no mention of bleeding the fuel lines???

 

[clemsonfor]

i wouldnt put a rag in my intake anyway, worried it would be sucked in!

Why not just try and heat it up , most say a hair dryer is enough to start it when cold. And many idiots dont bleed one or do it right and just crank and use starting fluid to hopefully get it to "prime" itself.

 

[Torx]

I had another YM1500 that didn't have the drip cold start device installed on the intake. It wouldn't start on a 95 degree day without help. I could put a blow dryer into the intake for 5 seconds and it would start right up. I replaced the rings and rod bearings only and it still had problems starting, even in hot weather.
I could lift the hood, and spray a half second spray of starter fluid into the breather housing, without removing anything and it would start immediately. That small amount of starter fluid, which was designed for diesel engines, had to pass through the breather housing, then through the air filter and into the intake, but still made the tractor start in any weather. If I really opened the throttle and cranked away for a longer than safe time, it would start without any blow dryer or starting fluid.
I can't wait until this weekend when I have time to reassemble this tractor. I put a new banjo bolt with bleed screw on the fuel injector so I will be bleeding at the fuel bowl, injector pump, and at the back of the injectors. I've never ran a 1500 out of fuel, but I have ran my YM226 out of fuel at the furthest possible point from my barn. It took a little bleeding to start again, and I learned a big lesson about keeping my tanks full. I never even let my tractor get below half a tank.

I'll never figure out how my little 46" John Deere gas riding mower knows how to rum out of fuel when I am as far away from fuel as possible and I end up lugging a fuel can uphill and to the far point of my land.

Bleeding fuel lines is an art all to itself. I am thankful that members of this forum were here to help me learn to bleed fuel lines from bottom to top, and look for any places that air may be getting into the fuel system.

I plan on putting both a temperature and oil pressure gauge on this YM1500.

I have an oil pressure gauge on my YM226, and would like to have a temperature gauge, but the adapter I have found doesn't work on a YM226. That might make another thread if anyone else has found a way to get a temp gauge to mount up.

Thanks everyone,
Torx

 

[Djames55]

Here is what you need for the Temperature gauge... Link>>>Yanmar Tractor Parts METRIC TEMPERATURE GAUGE ADAPTER

Here is what you need for the Oil gauge... Link>>>Yanmar Tractor Parts OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ADAPTER - NPT TO "YANMAR" THREADS

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