YM1900 Charging

   / YM1900 Charging #1  

birdman8399

New member
Joined
Mar 11, 2002
Messages
6
Fellows sorry I haven't kept up with you guys. I am an original member form the old Yahoo groups days. Since I own a Yanmar I donn't need to check in t often. However I have a problem.....

Voltage regulator is bad. I would like to install a GM altennator with a built in regulator. ANy help will be greatly appreciated!!!
 
   / YM1900 Charging #2  
You can do that.. however I found a nice small hitachi and used an old stylechrysler regulator with it, and it worked great.

If you do go with a dleco alternator.. get a delco 10SI it has a built in regulator.. there are two versions.. the 1 wire hookup, and the 3 wire hookup.

On the 1 wire hookup.. you are only using the big output stud. You will need decent rpm ( 1800 or so.. it varies slightly.. and the pulley size will make a big difference.) to make the alternator self excite.. but once it is excited, you can drop to idle and it will still charge as long as you are above 300-450 rpm. I don't like this method as I don't like to jazz a cold engine into charging.. however being a diesel.. once it is started it really doesn't need charge power untill it starts again.. so i guess it would be ok, as you will eventually get the rpm up when you start working the tractor..

Other option is the 3 wire setup.

Again.. big output stud goes to the battery, and then you will have two other terminasl.. P1 and P2
P1 is an external exciter line, and P2 is the sense line. Tie P2 right down tot he big output stud with a little jumper wire.

P1 can go to a variety of places. For instance.. you could add it to its own momentary push button switch, and then to power.. so that a momentary push of the switch excites the field.. and as with the 1 wire unit.. once excited.. it stays that way. I like this option on gas engines.
P1 could go to the switched side of the ignition switch.. to a a terminal that is hot when the key is on.. but is off when the key is off. This is ok for units that are diesel or magneto, and/or do not use a fuel cutoff solenoid controlled by the ignition switch, as P1 will backfeed power to the ignition switch when the alternator is charging. ( and will discharge the battery if the tractor ignition switch is left on after the tractor is shut down. If the unit is a gas engine, or utilizes a fuel shutoff valve powerd byt the ignition, you can use two methods to overcome this. First is the idiot light scheme that GM uses. A small side marker style lamp, liek the ones available at napa, can be wired inline with the ignition switch to the alternator P1.. this provides enough power to excite the alternator.. but yet, the light uses just enough power so that when the key is off, P1 does not provide enought power thru the light to keep tractor ignition ( gas jobs ) or a fuel shutoff solenoid open. Alternately, a diode can be placed inline with P1 fromt he ignition switch. This only lets power flow in one direction. On a 12v negative ground system, the anode side of the diode would be placed towards the ignition switch.. this only lets power flow from the ignition switch to P1.. power from P1 cannot flow back thru the diode to backfeed any other systems. An epoxy rectifier.. or any large value diode at radio shack will work fine.. just about anything rated for over an amp. However.. you still need to hook this up on the switched hot side of the ignition switch..

If ya got any questions, let me know.

Soundguy
 
   / YM1900 Charging #3  
Go to AutoZone and get a regulator for an early 70's Datsun (Nissan), 73 or earlier. $18.95. It plugs right in or at least it does on a YM2000, and my YM240. I bought an expensive Yanmar-specific regulator then plugged it into AutoZone's tester. The pinouts and connector matched, and it tested good for that model Datsun.

Also the alternator for that Datsun is a direct replacement, with 35 amps replacing 15. The Autozone rebuilt doesn't have the fan shield or a dust cover at the back of the alternator but you can swap them over. I had to shim the fan shield with a washer on each side to clear the pulley fan. $39 for the alternator plus core.

A 50 amp alternator for Datsun with A/C is similar but larger diameter enclosure so you might need a longer belt and a little tinkering to space it away from the block.

It looks like Yanmar and Datsun grabbed the same off-the-shelf Hitachi parts. Datsun went to different connectors after 1973 while Yanmar continued with the same part numbers. This makes sense for worldwide support, and assures we can find parts for years to come.
 

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