Loader YM2610D

[AV8R]

So, I have a YM2610D with a loader (I guess Yanmar too) that I acquired in 2002. In the last 18 years I have never had to put the tractor on a trailer and take to a mechanic to fix anything. I have close to 1200 hours on the tach. It probably had ~450 hours when I bought it from the refurbisher in Memphis. Clearly, I was very fortunate. I change the fluids/filters frequently. I have 32 acres of rolling fields and woods and 1350' of river frontage. I am acquiring an additional 70 acres also on a river about 12 miles away. I have the itch to get another/larger tractor, but I really like my Yanmar. PowerShift is pretty amazing and I am not a mechanic but so far I have fixed everything that needed. My loader bucket is very small and I really want a quick change for my loader to get attachments especially a grapple. I also need (ha ha, want) other items like a log splitter and wood chipper with hydraulic. So I would need remotes......
Currently I mow weekly about 12'ish acres with a 6' Caroni finish mower .
I have a 5' King Kutter rotary mower but haven't used in years, but I will need to use with my new place on hills. I do not have a ROPs and I have flipped once but used the loader to save me (years ago)
I have a 1/3 mile gravel road that I have used to maintain with a 6' blade and I just upgraded with a 6' Box Blade which makes a huge difference.
I use the loader for a million applications.

Do I keep the 2610 and upgrade with loader features and remotes or by a new 45-50ish HP new?

Looking for some thoughts on the forum.

 

[CoyPatton]

You said the additional acres are 12 miles away. Will you be able to transport a 5ish HP tractor with your current setup? (Likely not only physically larger, but weight as well.) Depending on type of roads available and traffic you are looking at roughly 1 hour of tractor seat time each way if you drive the tractor. Of course load and unload time factors into hauling time also.

 

[Roadworthy]

A third option would be to get another smaller tractor and keep one on each place. If I was shopping for a larger tractor I'd try to find a used one built before EPA Tier 4 pollution requirements came into play. If you elect to drive the tractor back and forth you should be aware tractor tires are softer rubber than car tires and won't last as long.

 

[AV8R]

You said the additional acres are 12 miles away. Will you be able to transport a 5ish HP tractor with your current setup? (Likely not only physically larger, but weight as well.) Depending on type of roads available and traffic you are looking at roughly 1 hour of tractor seat time each way if you drive the tractor. Of course load and unload time factors into hauling time also.

I can transport a 45 HP etc on my trailer and my truck for about 10k lbs. anything bigger and I will have to split loads. I would get a bigger trailer but then I would need a bigger truck. It wouldn’t want to drive the tractor the distance....

 

[AV8R]

I can transport a 45 HP etc on my trailer and my truck for about 10k lbs. anything bigger and I will have to split loads. I would get a bigger trailer but then I would need a bigger truck. It wouldn’t want to drive the tractor the distance....

I googled it and it is 14.3 miles one way.

 

[rScotty]

AV8R, it sounds to me like you could use two tractors. No, I wouldn't change anything on a good tractor with only 1200 hours that has served without any repairs for 18 years. Once they get that old without problems they seem to just run forever.

On the other hand, it sounds like you could use a larger tractor with some different features. Maybe even a cab and AC. So that's what I'd do, keep the good old tractor and get it a companion with all those other features that you want. The downside is that is two to maintain. But with that many acres, having another makes sense.
rScotty

 

[CoyPatton]

A third option would be to get another smaller tractor and keep one on each place. If I was shopping for a larger tractor I'd try to find a used one built before EPA Tier 4 pollution requirements came into play. If you elect to drive the tractor back and forth you should be aware tractor tires are softer rubber than car tires and won't last as long.

on the tires if ran on concrete or asphalt. Gravel or dirt not so much.

 

[CoyPatton]

I can transport a 45 HP etc on my trailer and my truck for about 10k lbs. anything bigger and I will have to split loads. I would get a bigger trailer but then I would need a bigger truck. It wouldn’t want to drive the tractor the distance....

I wondered and it was the first thought that came to mind. My trailer is 7000 lbs axles (2-3500). I have had it for several years even before I bought my current tractor. I often get as much weight as I want to pull with the tractor, loader, implement combination and possibly another implement on the trailer. I suspect there have been a couple of times that I maxed out every oz of trailer axle weight limit. It also made me think that a bigger tractor could get really costly really fast if it meant a bigger trailer and then a bigger truck to pull it all.
My tractor size was an issue of where it needed to be used—between trees. 1 of my previous tractors would not fit, I could work around it for most projects but it always added about 1 hour to the project. This tractor added a loader to the mix, otherwise very close to same physical size (less loader) and HP.

 

[AV8R]

A third option would be to get another smaller tractor and keep one on each place. If I was shopping for a larger tractor I'd try to find a used one built before EPA Tier 4 pollution requirements came into play. If you elect to drive the tractor back and forth you should be aware tractor tires are softer rubber than car tires and won't last as long.

It would be nice at once in my life to get "new". I too though don't want EPA Tier 4.... I wouldn't drive the 14 miles one way on a tractor. My issue on my current tractor. Does it make it sense to spend $$ on remotes and upgrade on the loader. I like my 2610. This spring summer I have upgraded the brakes, New LED work light. USB charger on the panel and the all important cup holder .

 

[CoyPatton]

It would be nice at once in my life to get "new". I too though don't want EPA Tier 4.... I wouldn't drive the 14 miles one way on a tractor. My issue on my current tractor. Does it make it sense to spend $$ on remotes and upgrade on the loader. I like my 2610. This spring summer I have upgraded the brakes, New LED work light. USB charger on the panel and the all important cup holder .

Personally, only you can you can answer those questions! Can you do the fab work to convert what I assume is a pin on bucket to a SSQA (again I assume)?Are you planning to purchase a new (at least to you) SSQA bucket or converting it (trading your pin on in in a SSQA one)? Can you do the hydraulic work to add the remotes?
The answers to these and other questions, will help you evaluate the expense involved in upgrading your tractor against the expense of a new (at least to you) tractor.
Granted that any work that must done by a shop will be much greater outflow of funds, but may still be considerable less than the expense of a new/larger tractor.
Again in my opinion only you can decide what is most beneficial for you.

 

[AV8R]

Personally, only you can you can answer those questions! Can you do the fab work to convert what I assume is a pin on bucket to a SSQA (again I assume)?Are you planning to purchase a new (at least to you) SSQA bucket or converting it (trading your pin on in in a SSQA one)? Can you do the hydraulic work to add the remotes?
The answers to these and other questions, will help you evaluate the expense involved in upgrading your tractor against the expense of a new (at least to you) tractor.
Granted that any work that must done by a shop will be much greater outflow of funds, but may still be considerable less than the expense of a new/larger tractor.
Again in my opinion only you can decide what is most beneficial for you.

I would add my remotes myself if I could figure out what goes where....

 

[winston1]

Your last picture is of a diverter valve. I am assuming you have factory gearbox power steering.

 

[CoyPatton]

I hate how mine was done for hydraulics to my loader but it works so I have not redone it. Someone cut the pressure line and diverted it to the input on loader valve. The tank/return line from the loader goes to the tractor pressure line. Again I do not like it, but it works.
In my mind this is a much cleaner way to install additional hydraulics.

 

[bmaverick]

I googled it and it is 14.3 miles one way.

My YM2610 and I have done a 12+ mile drive one way and then back again. In the 4-3 PS gear, and at 2800rpms, it took about 30-ish mins to get there.

Order a ROPS from Fredricks These are the OSHA certified ROPS made by Custom Products, LLC
ROPS Manuals — Fredricks Importing

Here's a few shots of how it looks.





OSHA certification tag and models this ROPS fits perfectly.


Here's the price. and easy ordering. Simple to mount. You will need a torque wrench with readout or ability to set when installing the ROPs for proper safety. The install directions is easy. It will take 2 people to install due to it's size. The price has dropped $200 since 2014.
Roll Over Protection Structure - ROPS-7 - Fredricks Equipment Parts - Your home for Yanmar, Mahindra, and Bad Boy Mower parts!

And ...

Here is how the horn sits. Right between the 2 headlights inside.
The horn is OE Yanmar from the factory. Fredricks just keeps them under the hood, not wired in. Easy to setup really.



Should you determine you want a 2nd tractor, one for each place, then carefully plan a trip to down Fredricks. Bring an extra $500, because once you see the cost of attachments and other goodies being so low, you'll be heading back with a great smile and loads of stuff. I know, I got a few things till the DW said stop it already! :laughing: For planning, look at what they have to offer on the site, then compare to your usage on the farms.

 

[bmaverick]

I googled it and it is 14.3 miles one way.

AV8R, I dug up the pix of the YM2610 on my 12x6.6FT trailer as I was pulling out of Fredrick's Importing. It's sq tube all around, thus, not a weak angle iron type of trailer.

 

[AV8R]

I love the shot of all the YM's in the background. I don't plan to Alabama anytime soon but I would like to see Frederick's setup.

 

[bmaverick]

I love the shot of all the YM's in the background. I don't plan to Alabama anytime soon but I would like to see Frederick's setup.

I have a bunch of Fredricks shots. Some are mine, others found on the web. Even Fredrick FB page puts out several postings of new owners of YM & FX machines taking ownership with the keys passed in hand.

Finished product; all refurbished to UTDA specs, safety hardware, dyno tested to Yanmar spec sheets, and functional tested before anyone buys.


New arrival right from the shipping crate from Japan. This is the staging area. I was impressed with how the arrival system is laid out by model series and sizes.


My restored JD850 that looked like death warmed over. Fredricks rebuilt and place in a newer 3T80 engine.


My YM2610 before loading on the trailer.


Yanmar machines EVERYWHERE there is a spot on the facility to put them. Literally, there are HUNDREDS of machines totally restored and ready to ship all across the country.