YM3810D Wiring.

[wild1bill]

Need to know what actually needs to connect to my alternator (not the color of wire). I have a 'post', with nut, and a pair of male blade connectors ( have a matching blank plug.). Also have a new voltage regulator with pretty colored wires and a plug that actually mates to an existing plug. Main problem is that the entire harness has been cobbled so many times that I need to start over from scratch. Any assistance would be good.

 

[dirty Doug]

I also have 3810D and I also have wiring gremlins. Lately every time I go to start it the battery was dead.So i replaced the battery.SAME PROBLEM!
I tryed to get Harness for 3810D, nobody has. I can relate, but don't know what to do next??

 

[HoyeTractor]

Luckily those tractors don't have much for electronics and can usually be rewired pretty easily. I feel bad for the guy 10 years from now wanting to do this on a newer tractor though.

hope this helps.




Looking at the regulator plug- terminals facing you, narrow end (notches) at the top



We also have the plugs if you need those
WIRE TERMINAL - FEMALE - 2 TERMINAL: Yanmar Tractor Parts
WIRE TERMINAL - FEMALE - 6 TERMINAL: Yanmar Tractor Parts
WIRE TERMINAL - MALE - 6 TERMINAL: Yanmar Tractor Parts

 

[clemsonfor]

Yea just buy some spools of wire. There is not much to these. Work one circuit at the time and replace one wore at the time. You will be done in no time

 

[TX mower]

FWIW here's an English-labeled 336D wiring diagram which appears to have circuit routing identical to the Japanese-labeled diagram posted above (wire colors may not match).

Depending on what your find, this thread might be of interest https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/403923-internal-regulated-alternator-conversion.html.

Edit - replaced attachment with correct diagram

 

[wild1bill]

Concerning the wiring harness on my ym3810D... I just started over COMPLETELY. This is a VERY simple machine in many ways. I believe it was also designed to be repaired in the field (or at least next to it under a shade tree). I put in a new fuse box, a new alternator, new regulator, new wires to and from all the things that need electricity. Also new temp and oil pressure sensors, new (rebuilt) radiator, overflow bottle, water pump, fan belt, thermostat, thermostat housing, hoses, and exhaust manifold. A used hood, fenders, front end loader, brackets, bucket and draw bar. Replaced idiot lights with gauges, repaired the seat. New front tires and wheels. Replaced the hyd. hoses and rebuilt all four of the cylinders on the loader. (Koyker brand).
I still need to refurbish/repair the 4x4 knuckles and if I ever need to run it after dark I'll need to invent some good headlights (low priority)..She runs very well and I think she likes me, too.
I am not trying to make a 'show piece', just make it dependable so I likely won't paint or make it pretty.
I traded a '97 Chevy Tahoe for this tractor and I feel much better putting (investing) several hundred dollars in it rather than several hundred regularly just keeping the Tahoe running.
Hoye and Fredrick's have been most helpful with parts and info.:dance1:

 

[kenmac]

wow ! you almost have a new tractor ! lol

 

[clemsonfor]

Wow...New fenders and hood!! What the heck happend to that tractor?? Was it in a terrible wreck before you got it??

 

[wild1bill]

I acquired the tractor from a fella that had traded a tired Ford flatbed for it. By the time I first saw it there was no hood (they said a tree fell on it), both fenders were rusted almost completely through at the mounting bolts, someone had welded 2" pipe TO THEM to make a 'ROP' device and added a golf cart roof (classy). It was MISSING the left front tire (rim was badly bent). There was no key so they had been starting it by shorting it at the starter, It had an alternator but NO wires connected (even near) to it. When I took the fan belt off the fan fell into the radiator because the water pump bearings were trashed. The alternator had been keeping enough tension on it to keep it up. There was NO thermostat and the thermostat housing cover said 'FORD' on it. Tractor had hyd. taps for something they ran in the rear (splitter?) and loader brackets from a Japanese loader of some type (no loader). Two bolts that held the left step on had broken off and I had to drill them out and 'heli-coil' them. Th exhaust manifold had burned through right beside the exhaust pipe and I found some REALLY neat stuff to repair that until I found a new manifold. Radiator was leaking and I had it re-cored. The wiring had been cobbled so many times that I just removed it ALL and started over (not that difficult). None of the warning lights or sending units worked so replaced them. The tac. cable was broken, also. The loader and bucket have been another fun/interesting project, as I paid a reasonable price for them but they needed a bunch of work, too. I have learned a lot and there is more to learn. Haven't had to split the tractor yet but that will likely have to happen some day, too.

 

[clemsonfor]

How in the world can someone abuse, neglect and destroy a tractor that bad in even 30 years!! ??? Shows how tough and durable these tractors are that that thing is not destroyed and junked!