Injector removal tool - (cheapskate version) - photos

[HoyeTractor]

Looks good California! Getting those injectors out without damaging them can be very tough. I'll try to upload some pictures of our puller. We worked for quite a while to come up with a puller to remove the injectors without damaging them. What we came up with was a puller that screws directly into the nut #3 (the part that actually gets stuck). We just unscrew the body of the injector while it is still in the head, screw in a special made fitting into the nut and pull it out. Then just screw the nut back on and you are good to go. It works really well.

Aaron
Hoye Tractor Parts
Contact Us
(940)592-0181

 

[kenmac]

Aaron ,,Is that a puller that you sell or for your own use ??

 

[normde2001]

Norm, can you show me where it says that?

I researched here and on Google. Everything I read said they come out without too much trouble unless they have been rusted in for decades. These were rusted in for decades.

My neighbor worked as a professional mechanic in a Deere agency (including Deere's Yanmar engines) and owns 20-some diesel tractors used in his larger orchard operation. He does all his own work. He said don't blow them out, that's how amateurs turn little problems into big problems. I'm not aware of any more credible advice.

I started out pulling the studs and trying to rotate them. The intake is too close to get a wrench or ViceGrip on the injectors, plus the flats on the injector don't extend far enough above the cavity. (see the= first photo). I tried 16 inch Channellocks at maximum force and that just gouged nicks in the injector (third picture). Rotating this model injector would need a fancy specialty tool to go down in the cavity and grip those flats.

I think a professional puller tool would need to lift under the 'doughnut' where the fuel enters. I thought I was near to ripping the threads out of the top of the injector, which is unacceptable damage and contamination if it is intended to reuse the same injector.

Here's one, but I don't know how to word it for a decent search. Several guys used to post about it on 6 different forums over the past 9 years, and this is the first I have read of a problem. Aaron from Hoye may even have mentioned it before they got their injector puller.

 

[HoyeTractor]

Aaron ,,Is that a puller that you sell or for your own use ??

Well... it started out for our own use a few years ago but, due to popular demand, we had a machine shop build us a bunch and have been selling quite a few of them.

We spent a full week building different tools & trying them. We tried everything. We either stripped threads, pulled injectors in half (seriously), or damaged them beyond repair. This was the only thing that we found that would remove an injector 100% of the time without any damage.

The price listed includes a 10lb slide hammer (the expensive part of the remover kit) but we will soon be also listing just the screw in part (a hardened steel thread adapter for around $10) for those that already have the slide hammer.

Yanmar Tractor Parts: Other


Aaron
Hoye Tractor Parts
Contact Us
(940)592-0181

 

[mus302]

Here's the injector diagram from the YM240 Parts Manual. The Service Manual cautions to disassemble only when submerged in diesel (I assume to prevent corrosion) so I thought I would preserve these intact in case I ever need a core.

I can understand that, I would probably do the same.

According to the Service Manual it should be possible to clean the nozzles if you can find the right materials: "polish the orifice only with a wooden stick lubricated with mutton tallow...". How's that for Old School! I love this tractor. It really is designed for overhaul by the owner if needed, anywhere in the world without benefit of modern technology. They don't build them like that any more.

I think somewhere along the line every manufacturer figured out how much their dealers could make off of repairs and quit designing things to be worked on by the person that owned it. I guess that is why we all here have 30 year old Yanmars and not brand new Cub Cadet/Yanmars.

 

[rundogs]

I bought Hoyes injector puller a few weeks ago,it works great!A couple of slams and the injector pops out.Great tool!

 

[mus302]

California

Since we discussed in another thread the differences in noise between 2 and 3 cylinder models, I was just wondering if the new injectors made any difference in the noise level or in the overall smoothness of the tractor.

 

[6thgpSF]

I guess I lucked out big time when I took out my injectors.I didn't have any problems getting them out.I've got a 1610d three cyl.maybe the 2cyl. are different? russ

 

[California]

California

Since we discussed in another thread the differences in noise between 2 and 3 cylinder models, I was just wondering if the new injectors made any difference in the noise level or in the overall smoothness of the tractor.

The significant difference is it starts readily instead of endless cranking. After the first pop where it fires and gains rpm, I would say the difference is trivial. I think the fault with the original injectors was they were spurting blobs of fuel, not sufficiently vaporized to ignite. There was white vapor (raw fuel) coming out the exhaust in huge quantities before it would fire. As soon as it was running it ran ok and any difference now might be my imagination.

It may clank less. At the moment I am running straight diesel with no additives and I think it clanks less than it did with diesel and Power Service a couple of years ago, or with the biodiesel more recently. I never seem to need full throttle for anything, in fact seldom run over 1800 rpm, so horsepower has been more than sufficient with any fuel.

The main thing accomplished was to remedy the difficult starting, which was getting worse even as the weather warmed up.

I guess I lucked out big time when I took out my injectors.I didn't have any problems getting them out.I've got a 1610d three cyl.maybe the 2cyl. are different? russ

Man I envy you. And rundogs, who has Aaron's competent remover tool. I was *that close* to giving up and ordering one of those!

I don't own a slide hammer. If I did I probably would have tried using it to pull against a small bolt in the bleed hole on top - and probably would have just ripped those threads out. Aaron I have to chuckle at your crew destroying injectors like a bunch of mad scientists until you finally discovered what works on the most difficult ones! I feel your pain; I spent a whole afternoon fighting with this #@%*! You'll make a fortune on those pullers!!

Now he tells me - my neighbor stopped by and only now suggested I might have put NeverSeize on the outer diameter of the new injectors. (But not on the tip where it seals.) Having any sort of harmless filler in there would prevent dust and liquids from going down in the tight space between the injectors and those cavities that they slide into. However I think pulling and testing the injectors every five years or so (the manual recommends 600 hours) will keep them freed up.

 

[reb]

Interesting!

Is there a warning in this about using biodiesel?