1/4" Valve Haters---Read This

   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #1  

Giles

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
158
Location
Florence Alabama
Tractor
2009 Kubota B2320---Wheelhorse lawn mower--- Case 480D Backhoe
I recently bought my first Kubota--2009 B2320HSD. Since this machine was purchased used, I have no idea about the history.
I have participated in threads on 1/4" valve operation and although this type system is new to me, I understand how it is supposed to operate.
NOW---My owners manual states that this model, B2320HSD has the 1/4 inching valve, and mine DOES NOT!
The B2320DTN-1(narrow) has position control. The scale for the DTN lift, is numbered where mine only has arrows and two adjustable stops.
My B2320 definately has position control and I do not understand why:confused:
Could it be possible that the previous owner of this tractor made modification to the 1/4" system to make it position control:confused:
I have no problem with the lift operation on my tractor but I know some of you dislike the 1/4"ing system. This post is mainly for you in that something may be possible to modify the lift system if desired.
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #2  
The B2330 Narrow was primarily intended for nurseries, tree farms, and other commercial use. They come factory equipped with position control, and also a slightly higher lift capacity than the regular B2320 IIRC.
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #3  
I recently bought my first Kubota--2009 B2320HSD. Since this machine was purchased used, I have no idea about the history.
I have participated in threads on 1/4" valve operation and although this type system is new to me, I understand how it is supposed to operate.
NOW---My owners manual states that this model, B2320HSD has the 1/4 inching valve, and mine DOES NOT!
The B2320DTN-1(narrow) has position control. The scale for the DTN lift, is numbered where mine only has arrows and two adjustable stops.
My B2320 definately has position control and I do not understand why:confused:
Could it be possible that the previous owner of this tractor made modification to the 1/4" system to make it position control:confused:
I have no problem with the lift operation on my tractor but I know some of you dislike the 1/4"ing system. This post is mainly for you in that something may be possible to modify the lift system if desired.

My B3200 is suppose to have 1/4 inching valve for the 3PH and I bought it new. I can't seem to make it work but I assume it is opperator error.

Anyone willing to tell me how it works?
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #4  
The B2330 Narrow was primarily intended for nurseries, tree farms, and other commercial use. They come factory equipped with position control, and also a slightly higher lift capacity than the regular B2320 IIRC.

Also for use in vineyards where the width between rows of grape vines needs to be minimal in order to maximize production.
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #5  
My B3200 is suppose to have 1/4 inching valve for the 3PH and I bought it new. I can't seem to make it work but I assume it is opperator error.

Anyone willing to tell me how it works?
The full range of travel control is between the stops on the control setting at the handle / lever. By default position, the handle / lever is positioned to the outter direction of the travel path of said lever. When you grab it to implement movement, one just moves it forward or back (up and down) without thinking about the lateral position. Thus the oversight of the feature.

Move the lever in (laterally) toward the driver and use that position and the normal range of motion (for up and down) for the 1/4" movement. Be patient as it is a bit slower in motion than the open position movement (default position).
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #6  
The full range of travel control is between the stops on the control setting at the handle / lever. By default position, the handle / lever is positioned to the outter direction of the travel path of said lever. When you grab it to implement movement, one just moves it forward or back (up and down) without thinking about the lateral position. Thus the oversight of the feature.

Move the lever in (laterally) toward the driver and use that position and the normal range of motion (for up and down) for the 1/4" movement. Be patient as it is a bit slower in motion than the open position movement (default position).

Excuse my stupidity, but pull the lever in toward yourself and then push down while holding the lever toward yourself and it will move 1/4 inch at a time???
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #7  
Excuse my stupidity, but pull the lever in toward yourself and then push down while holding the lever toward yourself and it will move 1/4 inch at a time???
Yes Sir. Or you may so choose the up direction as well. Not in 1/4" (stop and go) increments but at a slower rate of movement allowing for ~ 1/4" (slower) movement vs the full speed of the other position.

Best I can tell, that is how the movement is conducted. I sat on mine for a long time looking for the trick to the 1/4" feature.
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #8  
My B3200 is suppose to have 1/4 inching valve for the 3PH and I bought it new. I can't seem to make it work but I assume it is opperator error.

Anyone willing to tell me how it works?

There is also a good chance that the stops on the lever guide were not set properly from the factory. You will notice on the stops there are two 'steps', the one closer to the operator is for 1/4", the outer one moves the 3pt hitch at full speed. If you are pulling it against the inner stops and it doesn't move very slowly you need to loosen the little nut on the stops and move them closer until it does. When it is set properly you should be able to give the lever a quick 'bump' against the inner stops and it will only move a 1/4" at the lower link end. Also you can hold it against the inner stops and it will move slowly, or hold it against the outer portion of the stops and it will move quickly.
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #9  
There is also a good chance that the stops on the lever guide were not set properly from the factory. You will notice on the stops there are two 'steps', the one closer to the operator is for 1/4", the outer one moves the 3pt hitch at full speed. If you are pulling it against the inner stops and it doesn't move very slowly you need to loosen the little nut on the stops and move them closer until it does. When it is set properly you should be able to give the lever a quick 'bump' against the inner stops and it will only move a 1/4" at the lower link end. Also you can hold it against the inner stops and it will move slowly, or hold it against the outer portion of the stops and it will move quickly.
Nice explanation, I'll be adjusting mine, Thank you!:thumbsup:
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #10  
Hey guys there has a been a recent discussion about the 1/4"ing set up lately in another thread. Here is a link to it, go thru the whole thread because the are some other links in it about the set up.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/180169-new-b2620-problems-2.html

I aslo included a quick picture of what is being mentioned about moving the 3pt handle out (away from driver) and around the 1/4"ing stop to move the 3pt faster.

Sorry this is the link with the rest of the info with the extra links in it:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-buying-pricing/180412-eat-my-words-about-1-a.html

Good Luck Everyone ! :thumbsup:
 

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   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #11  
There is also a good chance that the stops on the lever guide were not set properly from the factory. You will notice on the stops there are two 'steps', the one closer to the operator is for 1/4", the outer one moves the 3pt hitch at full speed. If you are pulling it against the inner stops and it doesn't move very slowly you need to loosen the little nut on the stops and move them closer until it does. When it is set properly you should be able to give the lever a quick 'bump' against the inner stops and it will only move a 1/4" at the lower link end. Also you can hold it against the inner stops and it will move slowly, or hold it against the outer portion of the stops and it will move quickly.

Vertical - Thanks for the advice - I looked at my B3200 and interesting enough the 3PH is attached the spring and nut device you described (to the right and behind the seat). Unfortunately, no matter what position the lever is in it never compresses the spring leaving me wondering if it is set up correctly. In fact, after looking at it I realized even if I tightend the double nuts the whole way it still would not compress the spring.

Any ideas??? Should there be a "sleave" on the rod??
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #12  
Vertical - Thanks for the advice - I looked at my B3200 and interesting enough the 3PH is attached the spring and nut device you described (to the right and behind the seat). Unfortunately, no matter what position the lever is in it never compresses the spring leaving me wondering if it is set up correctly. In fact, after looking at it I realized even if I tightend the double nuts the whole way it still would not compress the spring.

Any ideas??? Should there be a "sleave" on the rod??

Read the other threads that were posted above. What you are looking at is actually the 'feed back' linkage and is different than what is being discussed here. It's function is to stop the lift arms once they reach the top of their stroke. It can also be used to set how far down the lift arms drop, but I won't go into that here. The 'stops' that I was originally referring to were shown in the pic that BrierPatch just posted.
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #13  
Read the other threads that were posted above. What you are looking at is actually the 'feed back' linkage and is different than what is being discussed here. It's function is to stop the lift arms once they reach the top of their stroke. It can also be used to set how far down the lift arms drop, but I won't go into that here. The 'stops' that I was originally referring to were shown in the pic that BrierPatch just posted.

Thank you.
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #14  
Read the other threads that were posted above. What you are looking at is actually the 'feed back' linkage and is different than what is being discussed here. It's function is to stop the lift arms once they reach the top of their stroke. It can also be used to set how far down the lift arms drop, but I won't go into that here. The 'stops' that I was originally referring to were shown in the pic that BrierPatch just posted.

Just to confirm - We have to manually make it drop 1/4 inch? In other words we shouldn't expect to push it to that spot and have it drop 1/4 inch but a "bump" to that spot should do it.
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #15  
Just to confirm - We have to manually make it drop 1/4 inch? In other words we shouldn't expect to push it to that spot and have it drop 1/4 inch but a "bump" to that spot should do it.

Assuming everything is adjusted right, if you just hold it in the 1/4" position it will continue to move just very slowly(either up or down). If you bump it against the stop it will move a 1/4" at the lift arm. If it's not set right bumping it against the stop will move the lift arms 1-2" or more.
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #16  
So... nobody really wanted to break it to the OP that he really does have a QIV? :D
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #17  
I have the B3200 and I wish there was a speed in between the two. I've been running the rear tiller and once I have it lifted I can't use the full speed because I don't want to crash it right into the soil with the tines turning and the 1/4" is just so slow. However, I end up using the 1/4" and just wait for it to engage. I only use the full speed to lift implements and rarely ever to drop implements.
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #18  
I have the B3200 and I wish there was a speed in between the two. I've been running the rear tiller and once I have it lifted I can't use the full speed because I don't want to crash it right into the soil with the tines turning and the 1/4" is just so slow. However, I end up using the 1/4" and just wait for it to engage. I only use the full speed to lift implements and rarely ever to drop implements.


I have a BX2200 and my tiller is the heaviest implement that I own, I can shove the down lever all the way and the tiller drops as slow as I want it to by adjusting the control knob below the seat, of course if I have the back blade on, I have to readjust the control knob.
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This
  • Thread Starter
#19  
So... nobody really wanted to break it to the OP that he really does have a QIV? :D
REALLY:(
I am 64 years old and I have owned, no less, then twenty tractors! I think I know how a tractor lift system works.
First--My post is intended to possibly help someone that dislikes the QI system. Read my post again:thumbsup:
Second--It makes no difference if I pull the leaver to me or away because there are NO stops, other then the adjustable ones that have only ONE STEP.
Idling, or wide open, the lift works the same. I can raise the implement slow or rapid, 1/16" or 2" depending on how fast I move the leaver.
If you think I have QI ---Good for You---I have no problem with that:laughing:
 
   / 1/4" Valve Haters---Read This #20  
Based on your description, you have the QI model. You can still be wrong even at age 64.
 

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