Backhoe New, Young, Uneducated owner of a 1969 JD 1020 diesel

[PNW1020D]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...96860-rc1048-lx4-rotary-cutterfor-2210-a.html

John Deere LX-4 Brush Cutter

Please see the two links above.

I have recently gotten rid of the cows (one was a real bitc*....my neighbor who raises cattle has never experienced a heifer act so aggressively and she made us pay for not being "set up correctly" to remove her from my pasture. My neighbor got the worst of it so we called it quits. I had to call back the cattle hauler who took my two older heifers two days prior to come back out and "save us". He came equipped with a thicker rope and an electric cow prod.).........so that I can repair sections of fence that are dilapidated, replace the barn roof and feeding stalls, finish my access road to the back of the barn, and tear down the old chickens coop to rebuild a new one/machine shop.

All that being said, the cows are gone and now I have a pasture (about 5.5-6 acres) that needs to be cut at least once during the summer and idk how many times during the winter months (We have always had cows back there so i don't really know what to expect in terms of growth rate, ect). My local hay producer doesn't "want my field" due to the topography so he wont be helping me out. I have a small JD riding lawn mower and Stihl weed whacker that can tend the orchard and my front/back yards but the pasture is where a rotary rear deck mower for the 1020 would come into play.

So.........

What do you all think about the LX-4 as an option for my 69 1020D?

Compatibility? (PTO, PTO shaft length (idk what its called) ect. ect.)

Correct size for my tractor?

Cutting capability?

Ect. Ect.

Again any info or knowledge is greatly appreciated.

THANKS EVERYONE

 

[PNW1020D]

Wow it has been too long, but finally I am here to provide an update on the "New, Young, Uneducated owner of a 1969 JD 1020 diesel", that is me :dance1:

I never got to installing a hydraulic top link, but it is still something that I will get to. It will def help with using my attachments.

I did purchase a Land Pride RCR 1272 from my neighbors father. It seems to be a good unit and works well with the 1020.

I also picked up a "superpan" attachment that I found out in the sticks from a couple that was selling off their father's tractor equipment. If you haven't heard of this attachment, it is essentially a 3pt scoop/dump bucket on steroids. See the link below for reference.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/334929-anyone-here-heard-superpan.html

Mine is in great shape, and I took apart and lubed the dump mechanisms, added a rope to the pull dump lever for easy use. With the model 47 loader on the front I can move some serious dirt in a single trip.

Finally I picked up a pig pole, or rear cherry picker, boom pole, attachment. Except mine is home made, and came from some older gentlemen I met on craigslist in the boonies. It doesn't look like the design of ones today, and it is heavily overbuilt and works well. Many sections of fence line have been ripped out over the last 6-7 months.

So what have I been doing with all my new toys, and the past 6 months?

Well alot.

First I bought some other things to help me complete the projects I envisioned/am tackling. :thumbsup:



1.I built an access road to my back pasture and back side of the barn. There is Mom and Marcus!!!!



2.Excavated and regrade the backside of the barn for water runoff.



3.Re-Roof the Barn, including 50% sheeting.



4.Cut down a nuisance of a tree behind the barn. 90ft Lombardy Poplar.



5.Tore down the old and dilapidated chickens coop on the west side of the barn.



6.Excavate for new building footprint, grade, lay base course, compact, etc.

7. THEN!!!! I hit a rock. So i kept digging and digging with my machinery.

Well I had to get a larger peice on site to say the least....

8.Remove big *** rock, AKA a boulder, so I can finish sub-grade and start forming for my new machine shop/chickens coop/automotive gunky rehabilitation center :laughing:



9.Form and place concrete reinforcing, j bolts, etc.



10. Poured the new slab and started framing.



11. And here is where I stand with my new structure. Hopefully I can get the sheeting on and tar paper by the end of this weekend. But we shall see.




Hope you all enjoy and thanks TBN for your help thus far!!!!

 

[Bob Rooks]

WOW! What a story. Very nice work, but now my neck is killing me. Wish you could orient the pics before they are posted. Lol.

 

[PNW1020D]

THANKS Bob!!!!

I did!!!! lol

Every time I posted them it went back to "original orientation" in thumbnail view.

But I checked again, if you click on them don't they show up correctly?

 

[PNW1020D]

Well I def. didn't get as much done as I had hoped for, but here are a few update photos.

Admin...I guess this thread should be moved to the "build it yourself" section? IDK...

Enjoy, and comment!!! :thumbsup:

 

[PNW1020D]

Long time no post.

Check out my update per the link below. The 1020D is still going strong, and truly is a big help.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...969-jd-1020-diesel-10.html?highlight=pnw1020D

 

[PNW1020D]

Hey all,

I hope everyone is staying safe with what is going on these days, etc.

***Check out my other thread in the JD Vintage section if you want to reply there. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...969-jd-1020-diesel-12.html?highlight=pnw1020D ***

I was recently using the old 1020D to grade the girlfriends driveway, and use it around her place to clear some land, grading work, etc.

I unfortunately blew one of the rear tires, and split the tube....was leaking ballast all the way as I was towing the old girl back home. I knew this day would come when the lack of maintenance in terms of rear tires and rims would no longer "wait", and become a headache. Just wish it happened at home. Oh well.

Got it home, jacked it up, and started to tear into it. I was able to remove both rear rims/tires, and separate the inner rims from the outer rim frame/tire. I loaded the two tires/outer rims onto the trailer to get new tires, tubes, and ballast fill.
View attachment 648045

Well, got to the tire shop, and they stated my outer rims were shot, and I needed two new ones. So that was not something that was great to hear, but as I said, I knew the lack of maintenance, and the fact they were calcium filled, was going to be a problem "one day", well here I am. Honestly, I think even if I had got to replacing the tires and tubes 10 years ago when Dad passed away, the outer rims would still have been non-salvageable, so I would be in the same position I am now, but who really knows.

So, now that I have the tractor on stands with the rear tires off, and the fenders removed, I thought it was time to fix some leaks, and try to fix the 3pt hitch bleeding off with the engine shut down.

Specific leaks:
1. Drivers side 3pt lift arm drips
2.Drivers side load control shaft drips
3.Rear PTO engagement lever drips (next to left heel) Can this be changed now that I have the rock shaft housing removed? Or does the tractor have to be split to get at the seal for this lever?
View attachment 648058
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I got my manuals, and started to remove the rock shaft assembly. I was able to remove the rock shaft housing, and started to tear into it.
View attachment 648044View attachment 648046
It was real fun beating the living **** out of one of the 3pt lift arms. One just would not come off the splines, and I ended up breaking it.
View attachment 648043
I then removed the 3pt control lever, and drove out the roll pin so I could remove it from the housing. I then removed the cylinder body from the rock shaft housing, set that all aside and went about removing the rock shaft cam and rock shaft from the housing.

Here is where I am at right now, and it doesn't look good.
View attachment 648054

First, I see a chunk missing from the cylinder wall.
View attachment 648047

Secondly, I see what looks like wear, or contact on the inner surface of the rock shaft housing? It looks like the cylinder has been over extending maybe, and smashing into the underside of the housing? I don't know, but this definitely doesn't look normal. What would cause this? I have never had a problem using the 3pt other than it would quickly bleed off after shut down?
View attachment 648050View attachment 648051
View attachment 648052View attachment 648053

Here are some shots of the piston.
View attachment 648055View attachment 648056

Finally, here is what looks to be one of the brass bushings for the rock shaft. One side it snugly fit into the bore, and this one just falls out with little resistance? What should I do here? Just order a new one?
View attachment 648057

Sorry for all the questions mixed into the long post, but any guidance would be greatly appreciated!!!:thumbsup:

 

[scottyrice]

The 1020 gasser is a perfectly acceptable tractor for puttering around tasks. Less trouble than some new Tier IV diesels used in light and medium duty applications.
The JD backhoes 8,9,10 & 10A were built specifically for the Dubuque/Mannheim 3 and 4 cylinder utility tractors including the 1020 chassis. The parts book will list mounting brackets.
If you can find a 310,310A & 310B industrial with a backhoe. The backhoe with some work, will cross breed with your 1020. It will be more hoe than tractor however.
10A backhoe with a 12" bucket in dry hard blue clay is about maxed out to fill the bucket. A good mate to the 1020 power wise.

We have a 1971 John Deere 1020 (gas) with the 48 farm loader. I saw this thread a few weeks ago and have been searching everywhere including the parts catalog for the backhoe subframe mounting brackets and associated part numbers mentioned in this post and for the life of me I can't find anything that mentions the 1020. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Long live the 1020!

Edit: How can I tell if any of the frames shown here will fit a 1020?

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/65890/referrer/navigation/pgId/43944574