How do you level/plumb your PHD without a spotter?

   / How do you level/plumb your PHD without a spotter? #1  

Fallon

Super Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2013
Messages
6,855
Location
Parker, CO
Tractor
Kubota L4060hstc, formerly L3200hst
I just got a new SSQA hydraulic post hole digger & did a small job. I could level the auger left to right easily enough, but had to rely on somebody else to spot front to back level. I had pretty much the same issues with my 3pt PHD.

I've thought about trying to attach a level, but it would be to far away & in the wrong plane to see well. Making some kind of hanging plumb bob mechinism might work, but would have the same wrong plane for good visibility issues. Not to mention bounce around a lot when moving & take a while to settle down if it didn't hit anything & break.

I can see how a skid steer would be better by a lot for visibility than a tractor. The offset mount helps a lot but it's still a ways up.

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   / How do you level/plumb your PHD without a spotter? #2  
Plumb the post you put in the hole.
Make the hole bigger than the post going in it so you have some wiggle room.
Unless the hole is very deep & very slanted compared to it's diameter it won't matter.
That is, eyeball it.

No matter if you have the PHD perfectly plum when you start the hole, when you lower the FEL, or the 3PTH, it's not going to keep the auger perfectly vertical as the auger goes in. The geometry of FEL and 3PTH will sweep (arc) the auger away from plum as it lowers. For a PHD on a 3PTH, some people drive forward a few inches as the auger lowers. I imagine for a PHD on a FEL you might want to back up as it goes in.

Plus, doesn't the auger hang vertical before you lower it to the ground?
 
   / How do you level/plumb your PHD without a spotter? #3  
Most times I oversize my holes enough they don't need to be perfect to set a post perfectly straight.

Beyond doing it so accuracy isn't an issue, the plumb-bob would be the best option. Just a little 8" stick on top of the gearbox, hanging out to the side, with a bob dangling near the bottom of the gearbox on a foot of line should be enough of a sightline to get used to and get ya close enough.
 
   / How do you level/plumb your PHD without a spotter?
  • Thread Starter
#4  
For my personal project I upgraded from a 9" to a 12" auger for similar reasons... needed sub inch accuracy for the mortise & tennon top rails. I also was digging the next hole why my crew was finishing tamping the last one, so had a spotter to help. My Quick Hitch compatible 3pt auger was really bad about it's travel arc, so I had a lot of inching forward.

My new hydraulic doesn't seem to be as bad about travel arc. But the guy I was doing the job for was giving me a fair bit of move forward/back signals. Not a problem & didn't slow us down as I have a HST. But I really couldn't see front to back angles on that auger because I was looking straight on.

Part of the issue was likely him trying to push the auger over the X (never let him get near it when spinning) before I dropped it. But I did have some minor issues with just letting gravity do it's thing to keep it level as I dropped it to the ground.

I agree a bigger auger can hide the flaws a bit. But I should at least try my best to get the holes straight as possible. Looking for tools or techniques short of getting off the tractor to look from the side every time going forward when I have no spotter.

My personal fencing that I had to get the spacing perfect on...
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   / How do you level/plumb your PHD without a spotter? #5  
How do you like your SSQA hydraulic post hole digger compared to the 3pt? Pros/cons?
 
   / How do you level/plumb your PHD without a spotter?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
How do you like your SSQA hydraulic post hole digger compared to the 3pt? Pros/cons?
The jurry is still out.

I rebuilt my 3pt PHD to fit on a quick hitch. It required a hydraulic toplink to work, but resulted in down pressure enough to lift the back of the tractor for the first foot & a half of the hole. I also had 200lbs of ballast over the gearbox.

With all the mods I never had any issues with digging holes. The loader can put more down pressure on the new auger though. The hydraulics are either less powerful of I'm able to put more of a bind on the auger with the loader down pressure. I'm not sure what 10gpm * 2,500psi translates into for HP, but it feels less than the 25hp PTO on the L3200. The new L4060 has 40hp & doesn't even grunt when I stall the hydraulic auger. I stalled my 32hp L3200 a good few times with the auger.

The 21 holes Sunday went in as easy, maybe a little easier than my previous 200-300. The ground was a bit damp after rain & snow, so not as hard of ground as some of the previous holes. Even so I often stalled the auger, but with little to no consequences. Better down pressure management may solve that.

I'd rarely get the engine above half, usually a third throttle for PTO. I'd have to kick it up to 3/4 RPM or so to get good flow & speed. The programmable rev engine trigger button on the Lxx60 is nice for that. Joystick for down pressure, thumb on 3rd function to spin & finger on rev button to give it some speed.

Offset mounting up front is decent visibility. Certainly no worse than on the 3pt. But you don't kill your neck turning around looking at the auger. Center mount would hide behind the hood & suck. I could see the point on the auger to place it just right & run things with only a little gangster lean to the right in the seat.

On PTO I'd kick up RPMs to fling dirt off the auger. The hydraulics won't spin nearly as fast so I have to spin it forward & reverse to try & jar dirt off. Judging by the hoses jumping when I did that I should think about a pressure relief valve or stop that before I blow a hose or something.

I never corkscrewed an auger on the 3pt, but got close a few times, despite being cautious. I'll love the reverse function if I ever do it on the hydraulic. I needed an adapter for 2" hex from 2" round ($200). But a friend who was borrowing my good 12" 2" round auger just bought the auger off of me for what I had into it & I threw in $20 in spare teeth. The 12" 2" hex auger was $25 more, but is noticeably beefier in the connector & other places.

If I recall the unit was $1,800 without auger. Which is steep when a compatible 3pt is $800ish (cheap ones almost half that).
 
   / How do you level/plumb your PHD without a spotter?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
   / How do you level/plumb your PHD without a spotter? #8  
Thanks for sharing Fallon.
 
   / How do you level/plumb your PHD without a spotter? #9  
My largest phd job is coming up in a week or so, 1200 holes with the 12" auger to full depth. Digging holes to start grape vines for our new vineyard. I am wondering how long this is going to take? Will be using my hyd. auger on my backhoe for this. Hoping I can make three rows at a time with 6' spacing between the plants. May have to make two rows at a time. Betting I will be sick of this before it is all done.

For large gate posts I recommend a spotter but for small posts I agree with the others just make a hole large enough to be able to set the post plumb. Thankfully this won't be an issue for the vines. Straight rows is the concern.
 
   / How do you level/plumb your PHD without a spotter? #10  
jenkinsph... you might see about renting a Post Driver. It will save you a HUGE amount of difficulty. For 1200 posts... no tamping. In and they are done.

Pilot Auger

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