How not to skid logs

   / How not to skid logs #11  
I'm not too familiar with your size tractor or the weight of those logs, but I'm be REALLY nervous about tying my tractor to something that weighed more than it did, especially if I were not on flat ground.

I wouldn't want the tow-er to become the tow-ee and see my tractor take an unplanned ride............. Worse yet would be with me on it!

Just my 2 cents.
ron
 
   / How not to skid logs #12  
For sure, if anyone is nervous about towing logs lifted off the ground on one end, and dragging the other end, then it is best practice not to do it. Knowing the pull is above the drawbar is a pre-requisite to skidding logs. Dragging logs is different, and something I don't do as it tears up the ground and gets the logs filled with dirt which makes it tough to keep saw teeth sharp when bucking the log into useable lengths or when sawing the logs into lumber.
However, the 3pt skidding technique works quite well. The limits are governed by the capacity of the 3pt, the balanced weight on the front end, and the skill of the operator. Having the ROPS and the safety belt make the operation much safer than without.
 
   / How not to skid logs #13  
You must have been on a hill or pulling the log "around a corner" or something, right? I've pulled bigger logs than that with a 20' chain hooked to my drawbar, and a choke chain around the log. I shorten up the main chain just enough to make the front of the log "light", and couldn't even tell I was pulling anything.
 
   / How not to skid logs
  • Thread Starter
#14  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You must have been on a hill or pulling the log "around a corner" or something, right? )</font>

Nope, it actually came apart on the initial lift of the log. The weld that had no penetration let go almost immediately which caused it to buckle and roll to the right. Talked to the manufacturer and he said he will give me a new and improved one or pay for the repairs to make this one work. He also said that shouldn't have happened and that he had problems with a (former) welder.

I don't have a quick hitch - I haven't looked at those (yet)

My tractor is a Kubota m5400 and with the loader and fluid filled tires I think it is about 7000 pounds. Most of the trees I just carry with the grapple bucket, but I need to skid logs out to a clearing before I can pick them up.
 
   / How not to skid logs #15  
<font color="blue"> Keeping the log just off the ground will limit how much the front end can come off the ground and give you plenty of time to react to a 'back flip', as long as your forward speed is slow. </font>

Here come the safety police! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

<Start soapbox>

With the log hooked to the 3 point, even if it is only 1 inch off the ground, no, make that even if it is flat on the ground, if it hooks on something like a rock, root or stump, the tractor front end will come up and over unless the operator can react fast enough to stop forward motion.

Loads should be towed attached to the drawbar, which is mounted below the centerline of the rear axle. This prevents backflips, even if the log hangs up on something.

<End soapbox> /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Why don't more people use logging arches attached to the drawbar? Seems much safer than pulling logs with the 3pt hitch.
 
   / How not to skid logs #16  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blue"> </font>


With the log hooked to the 3 point, even if it is only 1 inch off the ground, no, make that even if it is flat on the ground, if it hooks on something like a rock, root or stump, the tractor front end will come up and over unless the operator can react fast enough to stop forward motion.

Loads should be towed attached to the drawbar, which is mounted below the centerline of the rear axle. This prevents backflips, even if the log hangs up on something.

)</font>


I guess this might be true if you have a very small tractor, but in reality striking a root or rock when pulling from a 3ph will just make the chain and log swing back in an arc thereby raising the front end of the log enough to clear the obstruction. On the other hand, pulling horizontally from the drawbar provides no lift whatsoever to the front end of the log and encourages it to dig into the dirt and find the roots and rocks to hang up on.

I've drug logs every which way, and the only way I will do it now is with a boom pole and tongs, but I make sure the tractor has lots more beef than the log.
Gabby

p.s. What the heck is a logging arch?
 
   / How not to skid logs #18  
We'll be interested in how well you like the logging arch after you have tried it.
I hope you will post your experiences. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
beenthere
 
   / How not to skid logs #19  
Look in the atv/rtv discussions, there is a thread on 2 interesting devices, 1 the log arch and 2 a "Quad Skidder".
Both work on the idea that you pull low, the device swings and picks up the front of the log and off you go.
Nice safety feature - if the log gets ahead of you going downhill it will drop to the ground and stop.
I've thought about a Farmi winch but too $$, I'm going to make myself a kubota sized quad plate when I get a chance.

Lou
 
   / How not to skid logs #20  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Why don't more people use logging arches attached
to the drawbar? Seems much safer than pulling logs with the 3pt hitch. )</font>

That's what I was going to suggest. I suspect you could have a nice light duty one made from a length of four inch pipe with a couple of old wheels tacked to the bottom, and a come-along for a hoist.

That way, the arch does the lifting and the tractor is used for tract-ing.
 
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