add on toothbar

[Builder]

My quandry is that I really would like to have a toothed bucket on the tractor for work related use, which is usually all digging related, and a smooth cutting edge for backdragging & snow removal.

I'm beginning to think my only recourse is a second bucket with teeth, but that's quite a bit more expensive.

 

[3RRL]

L39Builder,
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( After you clamped it was it welded on?)</font>

No, mine is not welded on permanently. It's bolted on and removeable for backdragging if desired. I clamped it tight so as to reduce the amount the hole in the bucket would elongate over time. The other hole you see was already in the Koyker bucket.
Here's a pic.

 

[3RRL]

L39...
Then I welded the plate to the side of the bucket. The plate is furnished with the Markham toothbar and is intended to further reduce elongating the drilled hole.
Another pic... hope this helps...

 

[Builder]

Thanks for the great pics & information. Did your tooth bar slip directly over the cutting edge that came with your bucket? Mine came with a toothless cutting edge. I'd like to slip a tooth bar directly on it, bolt it up & get to work.

 

[Casco1]

L39..., I was in the same situation as you are, an L3710 Kubota heavy duty bucket with bolt on cutting edge. I bought a Woods toothbar, very well made, more expensive than Markham but made for use with a bolt on edge. Being in New England I wanted to take it off for winter snow, works very well and comes on and off with a wrench and a few hits from a two lb hammer.

 

[IslandTractor]

<font color="blue"> My L-39 came with the standard bolted-on cutting edge </font>

L-39, Casco1's post is important for you. The Markham toothbar does not work with bolt on cutting edges. Apparently the Woods does so that is probably the way to go.

 

[Highbeam]

I followed Rob's example and clamped the markham bar on tight before mounting. I then used the holes in the toothbar as guides to drill the half inch holes right into the bucket. No pilot hole, just a guy and a drill and a big cheap 1/2" drill bit. I see no need to have slotted holes since I can backdrag with the back of the bucket just fine, slots just allow for slop in the finished product. I would remove the toothbar if I anticipated a large project of backblading where the toothbar would be a hindrance. Also mcuh as Rob did, I used a generator to run my arc welder to weld on the reinforcement plate.

I love the bar. Digging and especially raking out vegetation are much improved. Even scooping up logs is now possible.

 

[Highbeam]

Here's the bar in place. Good stuff. Good 270$ to my door.

 

[3RRL]

Joe,
I see your weld is about a hundred times better than mine though! But I'm getting used that new Lincoln I got.

L39...
If you have a bolt-on cutting edge, I don't know if the Markham fits it. According to Island Tractor, you'd better investigate it first. Mine was not a bolt-on cutting edge. Other than that, once bolted on you can work with it. Some guys don't even bother welding those side reinforcement pads on, they just bolt through them.

 

[Builder]

I guess you knew I'd be asking these questions: /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

How much was the Woods bar?

Got any pictures of yours mounted on your bucket?

Thanks.