add on toothbar

[Casco1]

L39Builder, If my memory serves me correctly the Woods Bar was $435 I paid a little more because my dealer ordered it with replaceable teeth. I didn't know this was an option but considering I don't have a welder I can replace a broken tooth with a hammer and a cold chisel or punch. I never took any photos while I had it on and it will be off for another six or seven weeks sorry. I also have a Woods BH that I needed some advice on and the Woods people were a great help. E-Mail them any questions you have, I'm sure they'll be very helpful.

 

[Highbeam]

Rob, You don't think I would show a picture of my worst weld do you? After grinding the uglier ones smooth and painting all the welds look pretty good. My next door neighbor will fill his welds with spot putty, kinda like bondo, to make them look nice. I noticed you were welding downhill in an earlier pic. Doesn't your puddle run away? I have found uphill easier for me if I must weld vertical.

 

[3RRL]

Joe,
to tell you the truth, that was the first time I arc welded since 1978! I'm gonna have to go a long way to get as good as you...

I do all my injection mold welding with a heliarc ...TIG welder and can weld in any position because there's so much control. It wasn't until your post on another thread that I turned everything flat to weld...way easier. I did find by swirling larger than normal you can weld downhill but it's not easy. Maybe larger swirls let it cool faster? I used Ø5/32" 6011 and am going to get LOTS of practice for my next projects. I've got 3 going at once. Shees... I'll try it uphill next time.

The toothbar side plates were the first thing I welded at the property with my old Forney and I couldn't get a good arc going but finally managed. I bought that Lincoln and it was much better.

Sorry to get off subject here guys, but I just had to show Highbeam that I can run a bead. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif This is a photo of a cavity insert that needed the shut-offs repaired. This part makes plastic valve bodies for irrigation. The shut-off has to be perfect or the plastic will "flash" out. These will be re-machined back to size.

 

[Highbeam]

Wow, that's quite a part and a good looking weld. Even half of the threads are machined into the mold.

I have access to a TIG machine at work but never have tried it. Something about running a welder with a foot pedal reminds me of my mom on her sewing machine.

 

[ADin]

Does anybody have pictures of the inside of the bucket were the toothbar bolts on. The Markham toothbar comes 1/4" narrower than the buck (mine came about ~5/16"). I haven't drilled the holes and mounted yet but was wondering which would "give/flex" first when tightening down the bolt - the bucket side wall or attaching arms of the toothbar? Or did anyone use thinner spacers on inside?

Finally, I don't have access to a welder and will take it somewhere to have done along with adding bucket hooks. Should the paint be removed beforehand at the weld site or is it a don't care?

 

[ADin]

Does anybody have pictures of the inside of the bucket were the toothbar bolts on. The Markham toothbar comes 1/4" narrower than the buck (mine came about ~5/16"). I haven't drilled the holes and mounted yet but was wondering which would "give/flex" first when tightening down the bolt - the bucket side wall or attaching arms of the toothbar? Or did anyone use thinner spacers on inside?

Finally, I don't have access to a welder and will take it somewhere to have done along with adding bucket hooks. Should the paint be removed beforehand at the weld site or is it a don't care?

 

[IslandTractor]

Assuming you use the 2x2 inch "washer" provided by Markham on the outside of the bucket, the toothbar attachment arm will bend to meet the bucket side. You will not damage the bucket wall when tightening.

Also, you don't need to weld the "washers". I haven't done it yet on mine and after 40+ hours of use I don't see any problem. The washers serve two functions. One is to distribute the load of the bolt head while tightening during installation (what you are writing about now) and the other is to reinforce the drilled hole so it does not expand due to repeated in/out movement while being used. That is the reason you might want to weld it to the bucket wall. However, if you seated the toothbar against the bucket cutting edge properly (bang it in hard) then there will be no slop and little opportunity for repeated stress on the bolt or bolt hole. I'll get around to welding mine someday but there is no reason to worry about welding the washers on before using the toothbar.

 

[IslandTractor]

Assuming you use the 2x2 inch "washer" provided by Markham on the outside of the bucket, the toothbar attachment arm will bend to meet the bucket side. You will not damage the bucket wall when tightening.

Also, you don't need to weld the "washers". I haven't done it yet on mine and after 40+ hours of use I don't see any problem. The washers serve two functions. One is to distribute the load of the bolt head while tightening during installation (what you are writing about now) and the other is to reinforce the drilled hole so it does not expand due to repeated in/out movement while being used. That is the reason you might want to weld it to the bucket wall. However, if you seated the toothbar against the bucket cutting edge properly (bang it in hard) then there will be no slop and little opportunity for repeated stress on the bolt or bolt hole. I'll get around to welding mine someday but there is no reason to worry about welding the washers on before using the toothbar.