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  1. #1
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    152
    Location
    Nevis, MN
    Tractor
    Ford 861

    Default Thoughts on Ford 861

    Hi!

    Have been looking for a while and just picked up a Ford 861. Seems to be in nice shape.

    I have ordered reprints of the owners manual, shop manual and parts manual. Is the IT manual better than the Ford reprint?

    The owners manual lists straight weight oils. What do you guys recommend? 5-30?

    The exhaust elbow off the manifold is cracked. New elbow on order. When I replace it should I used ss bolts with anti seize? Looks like it is going to be a real job to get the bolts off the elbow and elbow off the muffler.

    Do you think it is a good idea to change out all the fluids? Any recommends on modern equivilants to the old lubes?

    The old dear is in pretty good shape for being a '58. Proof meter works and reads 1300 hours.

    Thanks!
    Chris-image-jpg

  2. #2
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    48,609
    Location
    Central florida
    Tractor
    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Thoughts on Ford 861

    the it fo-20 is a decent manual to have. IMHO.. not better than the ford factor shop manual.. however cheap enough to have both.

    i run 15w40 s/c rated oil in most of my tractors. while 10w30 is likely fine on a decent red tiger.. the 15w40 is a superior oil.

    for the rear sumps.. hyds, diffy and trans. you can run an 80w90 gear oil in the trans and diffy.. and a utf meeting m2c134 spec in the hyds. or run utf in all 3. many times the seal between the diffy and hyds leaks anyway ( pto shaft goes thru it. so you get co-mingled oil there anyway.

    ALWAYS change fluids out of a new-to-you machine.

    get some antifreeze.. green stuff is ok.. mix for your location. good time to change the thermostat as well.

    I would not use SS bolts.. they gall and are harder to cut than a gr5. ( gr5 is what I'd use.. AND the NS )

    points gap at .025, fire order is 1-2-4-3 plugs gap at .025 prefered plug among collectors is al437 though a 216 works..as do the champion H12 ( 512 ) and the oe heat range H10.

    don't need any special gas addatives.. 87 octane is way higher than it got when new... and 'lead' tetra ethyl lead was primarily an octane mod anyway. ( ethanol happens to be an octane mod too... )

    here is a list of ignition products:

    Points:
    NAPA #CS749
    NAPA HEAVY DUTY PIERCED (ventilated) #CS753
    Standard Ignition #FD-8081
    Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-8081X (Premium)
    Condensor:
    NAPA #FA66
    Standard Ignition #FD-75
    Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD75X (Premium)
    Rotor:
    NAPA #FA67
    Standard Ignition #FD-108
    Distributor Cap:
    NAPA #FA352
    Standard Ignition #FD-128

    side mount points hold down screws #8-32 X 3/16
    FORD AUTOMOBILE dealer parts counter. come with built-in lockwasher. p/n 355047-S7 (#8-32 X 0.19)



    if it is 12v.. a napa IC 14SB coil is proper.. with no resistors.

    if it is 6v, a IC8 coil is proper.

    if it uses a filter element.. a napa 1004 ( should cross to a fram ch6pl.. but i know 1004 napa is corrrect ).

    if it is a spin on.. then the following fit.

    motorcraft fl1a

    fram ph8a

    supertech st8a

    dual 300

    napa 1452 or a 1515 though latter is an auto application.. former is better.

    hope that helps some

    if you have any questions.. don't hesitate to email. ford 53-64 are my specialty.

    ps.. don't forget to remove and clean the oil bath air filter. it likes a diesel bath.. and crankcase weight oil in the cup. genny and dizzy have an oil dropper port on them.. and the steering box would love some lube. i reccomend 0 or 00 ep grease. jd cornhead grease is a 0 ep.. comes in a tube for your grease gun. cnh dealers sell an ep00 as well, pourable.. and manyy lawn equip dealers.. especially snapper.. sell a snapper or stens pourable ep 00 greease in a squeezy bottle.

    pump in till it extrudes under the steering wheel, then you know the top bearing is happy.

    check the pto shaft immediatly for thrust play in/out.. or side play.. if it has either.. pull it duiring oil change. 4 bolts..e tc. and renew the bearing and seal and check the bearing carrier to see if it lost snap rings or is damaged. liekly need a wear ring too. easy 30m job

  3. #3
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    152
    Location
    Nevis, MN
    Tractor
    Ford 861

    Default Re: Thoughts on Ford 861

    Wow! Thanks Soundguy! I was hoping you would be one of the people to respond, reading your other posts.

    Excellent info. Next time I am at the Lake (where we keep the 861) I am going to do a fluid change. I am kind of thinking just put utf in everything (except the crankcase of course), and some 15-40 for the engine.

    Any thoughts on how to get that cracked elbow off the muffler? Penetrating oil?

    Thanks for the help. Anxious to get back over there and work on her a bit.
    Chris

  4. #4
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    48,609
    Location
    Central florida
    Tractor
    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Thoughts on Ford 861

    penetrant oil helps. if it fights too much.. sacrafice the fastener. nuts and bolts are cheap.

    nuts can be split and heads can be cut off.. grinder or even hack saw.

    heads can be drileld.. etc.. etc..

  5. #5
    Member petra79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    46
    Location
    N.W. Ind
    Tractor
    Ford 861 - Farmall C

    Default Re: Thoughts on Ford 861

    I've run the tractor to get the motor hot then spray the penetrating oil. Heavy gloves keep the hands safe while its hot. They come out easier when hot.

    PS. Don't think I'd trade my 861 for anything. Great tractor.

  6. #6
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    48,609
    Location
    Central florida
    Tractor
    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Thoughts on Ford 861

    sup' ron!

  7. #7
    Member petra79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    46
    Location
    N.W. Ind
    Tractor
    Ford 861 - Farmall C

    Default Re: Thoughts on Ford 861

    Hey Bud. Just came in from runnin that planter on the 861. Raining now...

  8. #8
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    152
    Location
    Nevis, MN
    Tractor
    Ford 861

    Default Re: Thoughts on Ford 861

    Hey Gents!

    Thanks again for the good info. I was looking for a 861 for a while now, and found this old girl... Good tin and original paint leads me to think it has led a sheltered life in various barns. I am on the fence about the turf tires, but they are in excellent shape with lots of tread left. If The proof meter is accurate, I think 1300 hours is fairly minimal...

    Thanks again!
    Chris

  9. #9
    Member petra79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    46
    Location
    N.W. Ind
    Tractor
    Ford 861 - Farmall C

    Default Re: Thoughts on Ford 861

    I would say that depending on what you plan on using her for would make the decision on keeping the turf tires or not. What jobs do you have lined up for her???

  10. #10
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    152
    Location
    Nevis, MN
    Tractor
    Ford 861

    Default Re: Thoughts on Ford 861

    Quote Originally Posted by petra79 View Post
    I would say that depending on what you plan on using her for would make the decision on keeping the turf tires or not. What jobs do you have lined up for her???
    Jobs are pulling the road grader and running a mower to cut the ditches. We have a private road, about a half mile, to maintain. Pretty light work I am thinking...

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